How to test a Sterilizing UV light ballast

Valhallan

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So after a year, my 55W UV whole home filter system's ballast triggered a fault.

As I understand these light bulbs are only rated to last that long so I ordered a replacement bulb (+- R700 :crying: )

As soon as I turned it on the new bulb fused. Now Im not sure if its the ballast or the bulb that was at fault.

Is there a way to test these ballasts with a multimeter to check if they work? I saw online for a normal ballast you can do a resistance test, but when I do that at 2000k I get no reading.

Can I test its live output, I'm not sure if its AC or DC output (Chinese generic)
 

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in short ,you cant easily ,you can determine voltage but what are the globes parameters ,frequency also unknown ,internal circuitry under load also unknown .a ballast is just a choke to prevent a lamp from drawing too many amps and running away ,the start circuit may push parameters up for a split second to ignite the gas but if its too high the filament will pop .replace the whole unit ,ie,lamp and ballast ,make sure wiring is correct before starting ,or send it in to service agent , if a critical component ,uneconomical to fault find now .edit. only 2 pins on lamp are power .the other 2 are for the starter be it electronic or mechanical makes no difference .
 
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That's what I was afraid of, now I have to cough up another R1200 for ballast and bulb.... Thanks alot ANC, its great paying tax and purifying municipal water again after you fail.

On a side note if I have to replace this lot every year is reverse osmoses actually cheaper on a whole house filter? (22mm)
 
That's what I was afraid of, now I have to cough up another R1200 for ballast and bulb.... Thanks alot ANC, its great paying tax and purifying municipal water again after you fail. On a side note if I have to replace this lot every year is reverse osmoses actually cheaper on a whole house filter? (22mm)
That's what I was afraid of, now I have to cough up another R1200 for ballast and bulb.... Thanks alot ANC, its great paying tax and purifying municipal water again after you fail. On a side note if I have to replace this lot every year is reverse osmoses actually cheaper on a whole house filter? (22mm)
reverse osmosis can waste a lot of water some use a lot to clean the system ,on whole house if using 5 micron and a sand filter ,do you really need uv? is your water toxic at all ?high bacteria etc ,also look at a inline ceramic filter for drinking but must be cleaned around 300 litres .
 

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Yeah in PE there is a boil notice out, currently got a 5micron, carbon, 1 micron then the UV.
Then for drinking I have a 5 stage filter in addition.

Apparently they found high levels of a carcinogens (Some flame retardant) in the water aswell, nightmare
 
get a ceramic insert for the 5 stage .uv is hit and miss it all depends on exposure time to the water .quite frankly you dont even know if the uv is effective or not ,if the lamp goes into a glass tube maybe a fish tank unit will work ,may be cheaper ,koi guys use them
 
that ceramic filter in pic is after a 5 micron 3 stage unit ,it removes everything .the big standard cartridges are around r400 at builders and last long ,you brush them clean with a soft brush and reuse them
 
Hi. I've just installed a big blue filter system with a UV light, should the UV be on all the time or can I wire it to switch on only when the booster pump comes on to pump water?
 
Hi. I've just installed a big blue filter system with a UV light, should the UV be on all the time or can I wire it to switch on only when the booster pump comes on to pump water?
It's not the worst idea, as having it on all the time uses alot of power. That being said I did read somewhere that it should be on all the time as bacteria could start to grow in the chamber when it's off. Other thing to consider is what will it do to the balast and bulb turning on and off the whole time. I know my pump cycles power like 30 to 50 times a day
 
So after a year, my 55W UV whole home filter system's ballast triggered a fault.

As I understand these light bulbs are only rated to last that long so I ordered a replacement bulb (+- R700 :crying: )

As soon as I turned it on the new bulb fused. Now Im not sure if its the ballast or the bulb that was at fault.

Is there a way to test these ballasts with a multimeter to check if they work? I saw online for a normal ballast you can do a resistance test, but when I do that at 2000k I get no reading.

Can I test its live output, I'm not sure if its AC or DC output (Chinese generic)
Test with a cheapie tube.
 
I have an in tank UV light that's connected to the pump that fills the tank so it only switches on during this time which is about 4 to 5 times per day for 30 minutes at a time. My float switch turns on as soon as 25% off the water in the tank is used.

It's been running like this for well over 4 years and still on the original bulb.

Basically all new water coming into the tank runs over the UV light as it enters the tank.
 
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