Make your own 220 Volt backup power supply

KOPITE

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With Eskom in South Africa constantly shedding its load all over our economy, it is important for anybody who requires a reliable power supply to understand how to build their own 220V backup power supply, so as not to be ripped off by an ever increasing number of pseudoscientific power salespeople.

In this article we look at how you can cobble together a 220 Volt power supply using components you can buy at your local automotive store. But first it is important to understand a few basics about batteries, and how to convert 12 Volt DC battery supplied electricity into 220 Volt AC current that your household appliances can use.

A twelve Volt battery is a storage device that, when charged, stores electricity in chemical structures that can reverse and release electricity if required. Batteries are typically rated in Amp Hours (AH) - ie how many Amps for how many hours the battery will perform. An inverter is a device which can take the DC current from a battery and convert it into 220V AC current for your appliances.

To calculate how many batteries you need, and how big an inverter is quite simple. Investigate the specification plates on the back of each appliance. In the case of my laptop, the power supply is a 90W unit.

For an inverter one can work on a rule of thumb that to produce 100W will require approximately 10 Amps, hence in reality the lap top requires about 10 AH of battery life per hour. With a 90 AH battery one can therefore expect about 9 hours of power before the battery provides too little current to keep the inverter going. But it is not this simple.

Hence to power a more intensive system, one would add up the power requirements of each item:

Eg:

TV: 250W
Computer: 160W
Laptop: 90W

Total: 500W

Hence the system will require 500W divided by 10 Amps = 50 Amp Hours

So to run this system for 4 hours (during one of the many power outtages in the country) would require about 200 Amp Hours of battery life.

Again, when drawing current from a battery it is important to understand that the AH rating of a battery is calculated based on the battery being discharged over a 20 hour period. In other words for a 40AH battery, 2 AH per hour. If one draws more current from the battery a reduced output is achieved. This can mean that if the battery is rapidly discharged as little as half the expected AH can be provided.

The table below shows how if one discharges a 100AH battery over 20 hours one gets the rated AH capacity, but for example if you discharge it over 5 hours you only get 80% of the capacity.



Battery Capacity Hours of Discharge
100 20
90 10
87 8
83 6
80 5
70 3
60 2
50 1


Hence, in the above situation, we are drawing 200 AH over 4 hours, or 50 AH per hour. A 100AH battery ideally provides 5 AH per hour to achieve maximum life, one would require 10 100 AH batteries to run this system with little damage to the batteries and maximum efficiency. In reality this is very expensive. If one were to draw 50 AH from one 100AH battery however, it would, due to the heavy usage be only 50% efficient and discharge after an hour, as opposed to the two hours one would predict. So, ideally one needs to reach a compromise. In this case choosing to run the batteries at 80% efficiency would require 200 AH divided by 0.8 (80% capacity) giving us a requirement in reality for 250 AH of battery capacity. Standard deep cycle batteries in South Africa often come as 105 AH batteries, hence three of these batteries would be adequate to power this system, and, as the batteries decline with age a small amount of additional AH are available to cover this shortfall.

In the next section, we show how to build a battery bank and inverter with off the shelf components from an auto parts store.

image.jpg


You will need and inverter (in this case an 800W model), a plug strip set, batteries (ideally deep cycle batteries), insulation tape, a plug, a battery charger, a screwdriver and some scissors, or if you have one, a cable stripper.

image.jpg

Cut the two prong plug off the charger and the three prong plug off the plug strip.

image.jpg


Attach the two prong plug to the plug strip and tape the cable up neatly. Attach the three prong plug to the severed battery charger. This makes for a more reliable battery charger as two prong plugs often don't make good contact. Plug the two prong plug into the inverter output socket and connect the inverter to the battery/s. Turn inverter on. It should power and an indicator light somewhere will come on.

image.jpg

Attach battery charger to battery.



Connect to equipment to be powered. Note - in this photo only one battery is shown - to operate this system effectively for 5 hours one would require 5 100AH batteries. In this photograph, Dr Janice Limson, editor of ScienceinAfrica magazine, and an electrochemist based at Rhodes University powers some of her research equipment by the inverter system depicted in this series.
image.jpg

Good breakdown on what you need, but I find still confusing :confused:
 
Note that the inverter shown in the photos is a cheap piece of crap that doesn't generate a clean waveform. Use at your own risk.
A good inverter will set you back a lot of money, 3kVA ones start at R8k...
 
Modified sine wave isn't too bad, just not the best for sensitive electronics
 
The author of this article seems to have forgotten some basic physics. Watts = Voltage x Amps, so the amount of amps required to power 500W depends on what voltage the battery is running at. 500W running off a 12V setup will require 41.66 amps. Running off a 24V setup will require 20.83 amps, running off a 48V setup will require 10.47 amps, and so on. If you factor in ineffeciencies in converting DC to AC then the amps required are actually a bit higher, but it's crucial for anyone reading this article to realise that Watts = Voltage x Amps, if nothing else.

It's not a "rule of thumb" that 100W requires 10 amps. That's rubbish. There are a lot of variables that determine this and there are basic fundamental physics laws and principles behind it.
 
The author of this article seems to have forgotten some basic physics. Watts = Voltage x Amps, so the amount of amps required to power 500W depends on what voltage the battery is running at. 500W running off a 12V setup will require 41.66 amps. Running off a 24V setup will require 20.83 amps, running off a 48V setup will require 10.47 amps, and so on. If you factor in ineffeciencies in converting DC to AC then the amps required are actually a bit higher, but it's crucial for anyone reading this article to realise that Watts = Voltage x Amps, if nothing else.

It's not a "rule of thumb" that 100W requires 10 amps. That's rubbish. There are a lot of variables that determine this and there are basic fundamental physics laws and principles behind it.

Hence, the article is flawed.
 
It's not a "rule of thumb" that 100W requires 10 amps. That's rubbish. There are a lot of variables that determine this and there are basic fundamental physics laws and principles behind it.

He's probably working on 110V, dumbed down for 'merica
 
He's probably working on 110V, dumbed down for 'merica

No, he's working off 12V with a bit of margin thrown in for wastage. The point I'm trying to make is that it's not a "rule of thumb", as if it's some sort of thumb suck. There is a clear formula behind the calculation, i.e. Watts = Voltage x Amps
 
Its also missing depth of discharge. Lead Acid can't be used for 100% usage. 30% - 50% is actually usable.
30% if you want any sort of lifetime out of the batteries.

If you drain them to 80% they're gone after a couple of cycles - reading the data sheet for the batteries will show you the curve and lifetime.
 
Its also missing depth of discharge. Lead Acid can't be used for 100% usage. 30% - 50% is actually usable.
30% if you want any sort of lifetime out of the batteries.

If you drain them to 80% they're gone after a couple of cycles - reading the data sheet for the batteries will show you the curve and lifetime.

Why do you persist with lead acid batteries not being allowed to discharge to 100% ? Is 400 cycles at 100% dod just a couple of cycles ?( as you put it )
 
Why do you persist with lead acid batteries not being allowed to discharge to 100% ? Is 400 cycles at 100% dod just a couple of cycles ?( as you put it )

That's just the way the chemistry works. You're welcome to discharge your deep cycle batteries to 100% if you want, but don't expect them to last. 400 cycles is nothing by the way. A 102AH battery costs anywhere from R1700 to R2500 per battery. You really want to make sure they last as long as possible.
 
I'd still like to have more details on the batteries you say can discharge 100% with 400 cycles, just so I can look the data sheet up, and concur. Typically its 80% DoD for 400 cycles with good quality Lead Acid.

100% DoD would likely be in the 100-150 cycle range - or a few months lifetime at daily charge/discharge rates.
30% DoD is typically the sweet spot for price / lifetime for Lead Acid, however at that point, other chemistries start to look interesting - eg LFP.

Your money though..
 
seems like these batteries are designed so that you need a lot of them. at R2000 its not cheap but I can only use it till 80% because a discharge bigger than that will make the life shorter? why don't they make proper batteries then. sounds a bit shyte.

yes there is a lot of science but it just pi$$es me off when you have to spend so much but then you need 10 times the amount of batteries because you can only discharge to 80%. if we could use other products like this would we still be so eager to buy it?
 
seems like these batteries are designed so that you need a lot of them. at R2000 its not cheap but I can only use it till 80% because a discharge bigger than that will make the life shorter? why don't they make proper batteries then. sounds a bit shyte.

yes there is a lot of science but it just pi$$es me off when you have to spend so much but then you need 10 times the amount of batteries because you can only discharge to 80%. if we could use other products like this would we still be so eager to buy it?

They're not designed to be inefficient, it's just the chemistry behind them. If someone could invent a battery that can discharge to 0 as fast as possible and then recharge to 100 every time without fading they would make BILLIONS. By their nature batteries are pretty pathetic.
 
They're not designed to be inefficient, it's just the chemistry behind them. If someone could invent a battery that can discharge to 0 as fast as possible and then recharge to 100 every time without fading they would make BILLIONS. By their nature batteries are pretty pathetic.

but yet our solutions are centered around these inefficient products. are we being alarmists by spending all this money? if the other power stations come online will our expensive setups be relegated to relics? should we just be enduring the 2 hours a day. bought an inverter last night and ever since I hit 'Pay' these questions have been floating around in my head.
 
but yet our solutions are centered around these inefficient products. are we being alarmists by spending all this money? if the other power stations come online will our expensive setups be relegated to relics? should we just be enduring the 2 hours a day. bought an inverter last night and ever since I hit 'Pay' these questions have been floating around in my head.
I vote yes.
Load shedding or not, our area has random cuts cause they break stuff from time to time. Always handy to have backup.
 
I vote yes.
Load shedding or not, our area has random cuts cause they break stuff from time to time. Always handy to have backup.

Having a backup battery system only, long term its a costly idea. Adding solar in so that its off the grid (or grid tied)may be worth it in the long term. But I think its about the scale of it. System to power your entire house, vs taking off the essentials.
 
I vote yes, cause SA (even if the new power stations come online we still have cable theft, electricity theft damage, drunk drivers, lightning (sa) and a million other things that can go wrong with our ageing systems).
 
What people don't understand is that a lead acid battery cannot be discharged below a certain voltage. If you do the battery components become damaged.

It also take a hell of a lot of current from the battery to generate AC. The current approach is to convert the available DC power into 350V DC at plenty of current and then using a h-bridge to convert that to a pure sine wave. Some of this design concept is used in motor variable frequency drives.

Large UPS/backup solitons such as Emerson generate the 415V DC supply by using many lead-acid batteries in series. This is then converted to 3 phase AC by means of h-bridges driven by software on an embedded microprocessor
 
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