Old DB breaker replace

[Swa]

CBi breakers sell adaptors for exactly that purpose:

RAIL TO RAIL | CBI-electric (Circuit Breaker Industries)

cbi-lowvoltage.co.za

P.S. My flat uses the Fuchs breakers, with a different adaptor.

Hmm, does not state price. My point is it will be easier to do everything once off rather than one at a time. Also on these older DBs you often have the retention clips breaking or becoming loose. That's the main reason I replaced it as it was impossible to work with any more.

 

[AstroTurf]

I am doing a kitchen renovation and need to move my stove point. The electrician said he won't be able to replace a signed breaker on the board for my stove all 15 need to be replaced as the new breakers will not fit. Is this guy trying to take me for a ride? Surely the track should have standard sizes so an equivalent new breaker can be found for an old rack. The dB is 45 years old by the way. I don't know anything about these things but so just need some advice from anyone that may know.

Get 2n'd opinion, I think the guy is upselling.

 

[ToxicBunny]

The guy is upselling without a doubt, but it is actually a valid upsell if you can afford the extra work really.

A new DB board with new DIN rail breakers will make expansion in the future a much less costly/painful affair.

 

[krieg]

The guy is upselling without a doubt, but it is actually a valid upsell if you can afford the extra work really.

A new DB board with new DIN rail breakers will make expansion in the future a much less costly/painful affair.

Another plus is DIN circuit breakers are cheaper and you get wide variety of speciality components that fit on the DIN rail.

 

[ToxicBunny]

Another plus is DIN circuit breakers are cheaper and you get wide variety of speciality components that fit on the DIN rail.

Precisely this.

I had to move my DB a few years ago thanks to the renovations I was doing at the time, and I took the opportunity of putting in a MUCH bigger DB board (which itself was actually damned cheap as well) and now I have the luxury of splitting out circuits at will and basically going OCD crazy on my home wiring, and it won't cost me a fortune in components anymore.

 

[thehuman]

I am doing a kitchen renovation and need to move my stove point. The electrician said he won't be able to replace a signed breaker on the board for my stove all 15 need to be replaced as the new breakers will not fit. Is this guy trying to take me for a ride? Surely the track should have standard sizes so an equivalent new breaker can be found for an old rack. The dB is 45 years old by the way. I don't know anything about these things but so just need some advice from anyone that may know.

That old Fuchs breakers , you get adapter plates for them , one plate can take 2 thin breakers or one wide type

 

[Geoff.D]

Hmm, does not state price. My point is it will be easier to do everything once off rather than one at a time. Also on these older DBs you often have the retention clips breaking or becoming loose. That's the main reason I replaced it as it was impossible to work with any more.

I have worked on many older boards and never found broken clips or even loose ones. If they break it s because some or other idiot worked on and removed CBs without knowing how to remove the CBs.

 

[Pineapple Smurf]

Do you mind taking a photo of your sexy DB board sometime @ToxicBunny please? I too would like to upgrade mine oneday just for piece of mind.

 

[agentrfr]

It's a legal liability thing. He can't do work that wouldn't pass a certificate of compliance or he'd be kicked out of the guild as it were

Moving to DIN and getting new breakers and a leakage detector isn't a bad thing.

If your house burns down due to an electrical fault and insurance finds out you don't have the certificate of compliance, then it will be a wild ride getting money out of them

 

[ToxicBunny]

Do you mind taking a photo of your sexy DB board sometime @ToxicBunny please? I too would like to upgrade mine oneday just for piece of mind.

It is by no means even half way properly populated yet, I'm splitting circuits slowly but surely over time as I get around to them... So effectively I will have a light circuit for each room in the house, and at least 1 plug circuit for each room (kitchen has 4 plug circuits alone), and multiple circuits for things outside the house (so pool, jacuzzi, outside lights etc etc)...

Some of the breakers in the board are place holders with nothing connected, and the cheap ass Veti breakers will be replaced with better quality Hager ones over time as well.

 

[Geoff.D]

View attachment 1032930
It is by no means even half way properly populated yet, I'm splitting circuits slowly but surely over time as I get around to them... So effectively I will have a light circuit for each room in the house, and at least 1 plug circuit for each room (kitchen has 4 plug circuits alone), and multiple circuits for things outside the house (so pool, jacuzzi, outside lights etc etc)...

Some of the breakers in the board are place holders with nothing connected, and the cheap ass Veti breakers will be replaced with better quality Hager ones over time as well.

A 3 phase board for a single-phase application. Not bad, I like You could set up main power, Backup solar and generator on separate lines!

 

[ToxicBunny]

A 3 phase board for a single-phase application.

Nope not a 3 phase board, just a 36way board....

I plan on going monumentally OCD with all the different circuits pretty much, I'm anal about wanting to be able to isolate down to a very specific set of "things"

 

[Geoff.D]

Nope not a 3 phase board, just a 36way board....

I plan on going monumentally OCD with all the different circuits pretty much, I'm anal about wanting to be able to isolate down to a very specific set of "things"

36 / 3 = 12 way per phase. Inside there should be room for 3 separate earth and 3 separate neutral bars?

 

[ToxicBunny]

36 / 3 = 12 way per phase. Inside there should be room for 3 separate earth and 3 separate neutral bars?

Sorry, 3 x 18...so 54 way.

and the board has neutral and earth bars at the top of the cabinet.

 

[krieg]

Do you mind taking a photo of your sexy DB board sometime @ToxicBunny please? I too would like to upgrade mine oneday just for piece of mind.

Your board doesn't look too bad. I would just change those two old double breakers which will leave you with two free slots for expansion. Also that 20 amp single on the left CB has what appears to be a 1.5 mm cable, should be lower. Also the 40 amp breaker is not connected to anything. The 60 amp breaker is on the wrong place and not needed and should have been an isolator before the trip switch which has overcurrent protection. Your earth wires seems to be twisted together instead of in a terminal block like your neutrals. You have two neutral wires coming off your 60 amp CB but only one red wire, should rather feed off the neutral block. You have a cut wire at the top left that should be terminated correctly. Also think of installing a surge protection device.

 

[Tacet]

Livecopper sells the CBI breakers. But they are indeed much more expensive, per breaker, than the DIN rail breakers.

@OP - if you decide to have the whole DB replaced, I'd suggest that you put in a 36/54-way. If you ever want to start playing with things like solar, geyser timers, surge protection - you'll be glad to have the additional space. Hager makes pretty decent larger boards like the one Toxic posted. Schneider also make, but can be a bit more difficult to source.

Circuit Breakers

Create spaces that are inspirational and safe with our range of quality building fixtures and accessories. Shop from the leading decorative lighting, electrical, taps and sanware brands curated from across the globe. We deliver throughout South Africa and worldwide.

www.livecopper.co.za

 

[joker247]

I would also not waste my time looking for an antique circuit breaker, unless you live around antique shops it would be mission impossible trying to find one, I also have those in my flat and they are truly so oud soos die berge.

If OP doesn't believe him he can always go out to look for the breaker himself and ask the electrician to fit it, hopefully his car is very fuel efficient because he is going to do a lot of driving.

Thanks for the reply. The issue is not that I am looking for the exact same breaker I just need one that will fit the same rail as the existing ones as I only need to replace one. According to the electrician this would not be possible and all the breakers and a new rail needs to be installed.

 

[TheChamp]

Thanks for the reply. The issue is not that I am looking for the exact same breaker I just need one that will fit the same rail as the existing ones as I only need to replace one. According to the electrician this would not be possible and all the breakers and a new rail needs to be installed.

You can get a breaker to work but it won't be neat since it will be much smaller that what you have, not a problem if you don't mind

 

[joker247]

Lets start at your first post - your are moving a stove point? Why does the breaker need to be changed? If you are just moving your stove - seems like some chasing and wiring? If you are however installing a new one, different connectors, and different regulations (there are regulations around stoves -some of those old Defy ones were 3-phase ) then perhaps a valid concern by the electrician - but seems extreme to rewire a DB to move 1 appliance.

On the other hand - if the db is giving issues or the rest of the wiring is as old as the DB - perhaps a re-wire is in order - every 30-40 years - sure can happen, but it will cost you a pretty penny.

No mention of any other renovations - but in this day and age, a lot of people are looking into some form of solar etc - if that's on the cards, perhaps use the same opportunity to work with a qualified installer and electrician to plan a bit ahead.

I am moving a stove point as the existing wiring for the stove will be replaced until the breaker and as everything is about 45 years old I though it would be best to replace the breaker as well. I am sure the existing stove wire could be extended to the new stove point location using the existing breaker. I don't know if this would be the best approach though. The existing stove wire would have been carrying heavy current for around 5 decades could it have deteriorated in that time so I have a brand new stove not working as it should?

 

[Swa]

^You won't find one that will fit the rail and will need an adapter plate. There's no reason for a new breaker though if you're just replacing wiring unless the breaker is somehow broken so that you won't be able to fasten it again.