"overheating" car

supersunbird said:
It was the thermostat...

Since its come from the repair place the battery light stays on under 3200 RPM... #justcantwin!!!! So probably the alternator is going or maybe the battery... SIGH!

Why only after its been with them? Coincidence I hope.
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Thought as much. If the light stays on its not charging most likely. Judging by it just came back, the belt could be very loose and is not tentioned properly on the alternator.
 
supersunbird said:
It was the thermostat.

Since its come from the repair place the battery light stays on under 3200 RPM... #justcantwin!!!! So probably the alternator is going or maybe the battery... SIGH!

Why only after its been with them? Coincidence I hope.
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Alternator not tight enough against the belt. I slips at low revs. You can prob do it yourself. What car is it?
 
supersunbird said:
Ford Ikon (bantam type), have to take it to auto electrician for climate control unit replacement.
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Since it's going already might as well let him do it. If you do it yourself, there is a bolt on the side of the alternator on a sort of rail thingy. Put a power bar inbetween the engine and the alternator when the bolt is loose. Pull the power bar so that the alternator is pulled into the v of the belt for max tension and then tighten the bolt. Pretty simple if you know what to do.
 
Most belts require a a few cm give on the longest section. Over tightening causes bearing failures on alternators.

It is most likely a loose belt. But the belt may also have been glazed, requiring a new belt. Else belts snaps at revs and does damage to plastic nearby.

Just a note that model has a issue with water pump wear.
 
Well, its probably the alternator, usual place doesn't have stock of alternator (or regulator or whatevs) so car is standing on trickle charge for now till they have stock, I don't have time to do around looking for such in the week and don't want to phone a bazillion places I don't know.
 
To test if the alternator is charging. Loosen one connection on the battery. Start the car. While it's idling lift the connection off the battery. If alternator is working the car should carry on idling.
 
akescpt said:
To test if the alternator is charging. Loosen one connection on the battery. Start the car. While it's idling lift the connection off the battery. If alternator is working the car should carry on idling.
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Or maybe not...

If you're tempted to test an alternator by disconnecting the negative battery cable, don't do it. A good alternator may indeed keep the engine running, but it was never a good test. In the pre-computer days, you could pull it off without damaging anything. Today, you risk frying every electrical device in your vehicle. The second you disconnect the battery, the voltage regulator pegs the alternator to put out maximum power. With no battery in the circuit to act as a buffer, the alternator can put out up to 150 volts, depending on engine rpm. When the smoke clears, that “simple test” could end up costing you several thousand dollars for new electronics.

Instead, get a cheap voltmeter (about $15 at any home center or auto parts store). With the engine off, battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. If it's below that, charge the battery with a battery charger before you conduct the test. Then start the engine and check for increased voltage readings as shown above. If you see higher readings, chances are the alternator is good (more sophisticated testing equipment is needed to detect an open or shorted alternator diode).

By the way, a dead battery in the morning is usually caused by a computer module that isn't shutting down when you turn off the car. If your alternator tests good, get your vehicle into a shop and pay a pro to find the misbehaving module.



Read more: http://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/how-to-test-an-alternator/view-all#ixzz36xIGYaZ6
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supersunbird said:
i dont think it would be the belt, then the battery light wouldnt just go off at the exact same ~3150rpm mark.
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When the slippage factor is mitigated the alt will produce the required voltage to turn the light off.


No offense I think you should find an auto electrician. Usually they will diagnosis the charging fault for free. Many battery centres will do this free as well.

Else you will end up wasting money.
Touch the alt pulley, if it is very hot = belt slipping (do this with the engine off)
 
akescpt said:
always worked for me.
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Newer cars use the battery to regulate the voltage spikes , that are the norm with an alternator. Remove the battery(damper) and you have issues with the electronics.

No to mention newer cars have alternators with higher AMP rating(due to more elctronics). And when you disconnect a battery terminal. A spark will jump the gap = voltage spike.

You have been lucky so far.
 
supersunbird said:
i dont think it would be the belt, then the battery light wouldnt just go off at the exact same ~3150rpm mark.
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Does your lights dim at low revs and light up at higer revs?

Is yes, then it's the regulator. If no, it's something else.
Still suspect the belt to be the problem.
 
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