Power4Less Integrated Heatpump Geyser

SauRoNZA

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So I've had an eye on these for a couple years having a house fully inverted and running on solar but it always seemed a bit silly to go replace a perfectly working geyser.


That was until last week when I had a strong suspicion my geyser has burst or is in the process of bursting when I discovered more and more water dripping outside by the overflow. It's mounted in the ceiling of my garage so a quick jump on the ladder to check the geyser drip tray and it was welling up with water and slowly dripping out of the thermostat probe hole.

Got in touch with the insurance to find out how it works to get them to assess the unit and then pay me out directly and of course nobody reads so there was a whole song and dance because they simply initiated a claim and sent out a plumber who then called me a million times after the initial assessment wanting to come and install the new geyser I never asked for, but even insurance woke up and sorted it all out and paid me a nice R12k for my efforts.

Got hold of Power4Less to get a quote and they were pretty quick about things and turns out the landed price is actually R1,999 more for delivery, but then I subsequently found out you can get them via Avo and their credit they actually recommended I buy it there and save the money and a friend of mine who is one of the few people who actually uses Nedbank bought it on my behalf for the additional greenbacks discount and the landed cost ended up being R26,319.06.

Part of their quote is a voucher of R5,650 for the installation costs which includes a certain amount of plumbing and labour up to certain limits, but their approved plumber had already reached out to me and I decided to just work with him directly as my pipe run is likely to be less than the voucher stipulates and so I may just score a few hundred rands there.

Overall quoted price directly from Power4Less with installation voucher and delivery was R33,942.

Of course that excludes the waterproof plug that needs to be fitted at the installation location and where required the need for a concrete slab or levelled surface. I already have large levelled paved slabs around the house, but just for some extra stability I'm picking up a 800mm x 800mm concrete rebar reinforced slab tomorrow morning at the crack of dawn just so it's slightly raised off the ground and doesn't distribute it's weight over multiple smaller slabs that may potentially shift or crack, since they also bolt the unit down.

Electrician came around on Friday to install the outside plug point, which fortunately is on the back of the same wall where my distribution board sits, so was a quick drill through the wall and installing some tubing and doing the electrical magic for R1,700.

I already had a CBI Astute Smart Controller installed in line with my geyser circuit breaker which has now been linked to the outside plug, because the IHP while Tuya-based and Smart doesn't do power monitoring in and of itself and I'm a nerd for the data and the old geyser isn't going to use it any more anyway.

Oddly my CBI Astute Smart Socket running my one aircon shat itself with the power being turned off and back on to add an additional plug in my garage, since they were here figured I would make the best of it. Very odd and the first time I've had a failure and it's not like the power hasn't tripped before, but I do feel like that plug was doing some weird stuff before so possibly was just slowly on it's way out and this was the last straw.

So the reason for the thread? Well to track if this thing really lives up to the promises of efficiency, but beyond that my goal is to reduce my consumption outside of solar sun hours and potentially no longer needing to pay Eskom anything at all as most of my grid consumption goes into the geyser running in the early hours of the morning and early evening.

It was a 150L previously with a 3kW element that was set to 55-degrees and ran from 12:00 - 19:00 every day, but I had it setup in Home Assistant that when manually flipped on out of those hours it would stay on for 1 1/2 hours and then turn off again which ended up being more often than not.

My intention with the IHP is to set it to 60-degrees at first and run it from 08:00-20:00 by default with only the 600W element and hopefully never need to use the 2kW element boost function.

Old School 150L Geyser in kWh / average per day.

April 2025 227.06 / 7.56
May 2025 274.7 / 8.86
June 327.99 / 10.93
July 337.81 / 10.89
August 338.22 / 10.91
September 248.58 / 8.28
October 265.47 / 8.56
November 214 / 7.13
December 189.21 / 6.10
January 182.73 / 5.89
February 182 / 6.5
March 212.71 / 6.86
April 267.32 / 8.90

IHP

25 May - 2.7 kWh (55 degrees 08:00-20:00)
26 May - 4.26 kWh (having briefly pumped it to 60-degrees and pulling it back to 55, left on 24/7)
27 May - 4.84 kWh (24/7 55-degrees, I feel this is the worst it can get because it's a day where my domestic is around and it always hurt the hot water)
28 May - 4.03 kWh
29 May - 3.23 kWh (changed it to switch down to 45-degrees at 22:00 and back to 55-degrees at 10:00 to make the most use of solar but never go cold)
30 May - 3.01 kWh
31 May - 4.03 kWh

Month to Month

Geyser
June 2025 - 327.99 kWh - 150L Conventional Geyser set to 55-degrees but off overnight making the most of solar hours.
July 337.81 kWh
August 338.22 kWh

IHP
June 2026 - 138.37 kWh (58% saving) - 200L IHP set to 60-degrees from 12:00 - 20:00 and 55 degrees outside of that.
July 2026 - 142.82 kWh (58% saving)
August 2026 - 131.09 kWh (61% saving) - I fiddled a lot with timers and pretty much let it run to 65-degrees from 12:00-16:00 for the solar hours.
September 2026 - - Now I pretty much have it on 55-degrees at all times, with it running up to 65-degrees from 12:00-16:00 just to put the solar to work.

Obviously the above is not an exact science as no two days are precisely the same and when we go away for weekends or holidays it would dip considerably, but it will hopefully be somewhat of a real world reflection of the differences.

At the very least at 600W and running for 12 hours assuming it can maintain the temperature it will never use more than 7.2kWh per day.

So now we wait for the plumber to come around tomorrow morning and do the work and then we'll find out if magic happens or it's all just marketing. It does seem like a very solid piece of kid with the sexy stainless steel body, but we'll have to see how their promise of it never leaking or bursting works out over the next 10 and hopefully more years.[/b]

****
Update after final plumber invoice.

Unit Cost - R26,319.06
Installation - R7,241.60

Total - R33,560.66
 
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So my day started at 06:00 so I could get to Maitland to pick up the 800mmx800mm concrete steel reinforced slab so I could be back by 08:30 when plumber arrived.

Shout out to Stonecast for sorting me out with a single slab for basically half price cash, great bunch of really helpful people I’ll definitely go back to if I ever need basins or slabs or anything of the sort in the future.

PlumbPatrol rocked up at pretty much exactly 8:30 which I must say is a first for me and what I expected to be a quick of two hours according to Power4Less was an all day job since they only left here at 17:00ish but this seemed perfectly normal and expected according to them but I guess I’ll find out tomorrow if I’m charged extra.

They were reluctant to install it when they found the grill on the one side was slightly dented in, but I took photos of the box and the unit as backup to prove it wasn’t their fault but had arrived like that and seemingly happened either at manufacturing or testing which they claim they do before shipping out and sent it off to Power4Less via email, but told them to go ahead because it’s pretty thin steel there and this is going and unlikely to be perfect forever.

They also had an issue with one vacuum breaker from the included kit not working properly and had to swop that out.

Then they used the newly provided plug to run their drill and promptly tripped the power and I got on the phone with the electrician because while they voltage tested it on Friday I never actually plugged anything into it.

He was of course on the other side of the world and the guys were happy to carry on running a lead but wanted the plug sorted before they would sign off the job because they need to submit photos of the install.

I’m fairly comfortable wiring plugs and fans and switches and the like but never worked on a DB, but ended up having a video call with him and the neutral had been wired on the wrong bar and so it was pretty straight forward moving wire a few centimetre over and sorted and now he owes me a favour to sort out my smart switches.

Most of the actual job was copper work and then wrapping and painting that black insulation tubing around it while draining the old geyser in between and redirecting some of the internal plumbing and then getting the old geyser out of my garage roof.

I noticed tonight my Shelly on the garage motor isn’t working along with my Aqara door bell, of which the inside chime sits right on top of the gate motor so I hope it’s not a case of water having dripped in there and rather the plug being dead or possibly even turned off but that’s a tomorrow in daylight problem.

Anyway back to the actual unit, it’s a solid piece of kit and while quite tall and large ended up occupying less space than I expected and is still quite easy to get around in that section on the side of the house.

The touch panel and screen makes no sense because it has a rubber gasket and metal plate screwed over it like it’s meant to only be left open if installed inside…but they say very clearly you can’t install it inside due to the ventilation required and humidifying effect it has.

No real issue as I was never going to use it anyway and operate it via the App which is just the usual Tuya Smart Life I already use for a lot of other stuff.

The app itself does all the usual things and gives you a **** load of data I never anticipated from every inlet and outlet temperature to pumps and valves and what not.

Disappointingly it doesn’t expose any of those to the Home Assistant integration, including the current temperate itself which in reality I don’t really need to care about why more but was hoping to graph in this thread so people could see how quickly it warms up and cools down overnight etc.

I’ll probably try to reach someone on that side with a feature request to allow for all that data to come through.

So far the marketing seems real. Bearing in mind it went from stone cold brand new fresh water in the afternoon it hit 55-degrees at 18:00 or so and after three showers and one bath tonight by 20:00 when it switched off it used only 2.7kWh.

I opted to run it at 55 just like the old one for now to see what it does overnight and then next week Monday change it to 60 then compare how much of a difference that makes on consumption but also temperatures the next morning.

That’s all stuff I expected to just work so no surprised there but the thing that really sealed the deal for me was the increase in pressure. I intentionally flushed the toilet as I got into the shower and it hardly made any difference at all but the overall pressure is definitely increased so much so the shower sounds different.

First thing on my shopping list now is one of those kak fancy high pressure shower heads.

All in all first impressions are very good but obviously need to see what a full 24/7 cycle looks like.

****

Oh on the noise factor it sounds just like any aircon compressor or fridge I’ve ever heard so hardly a strange noise or outrageously annoying and it’s not like it’s going to run at night anyway.
 
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So my day started at 06:00 so I could get to Maitland to pick up the 800mmx800mm concrete steel reinforced slab so I could be back by 08:30 when plumber arrived.

Shout out to Stonecast for sorting me out with a single slab for basically half price cash, great bunch of really helpful people I’ll definitely go back to if I ever need basins or slabs or anything of the sort in the future.

PlumbPatrol rocked up at pretty much exactly 8:30 which I must say is a first for me and what I expected to be a quick of two hours according to Power4Less was an all day job since they only left here at 17:00ish but this seemed perfectly normal and expected according to them but I guess I’ll find out tomorrow if I’m charged extra.

They were reluctant to install it when they found the grill on the one side was slightly dented in, but I took photos of the box and the unit as backup to prove it wasn’t their fault but had arrived like that and seemingly happened either at manufacturing or testing which they claim they do before shipping out and sent it off to Power4Less via email, but told them to go ahead because it’s pretty thin steel there and this is going and unlikely to be perfect forever.

They also had an issue with one vacuum breaker from the included kit not working properly and had to swop that out.

Then they used the newly provided plug to run their drill and promptly tripped the power and I got on the phone with the electrician because while they voltage tested it on Friday I never actually plugged anything into it.

He was of course on the other side of the world and the guys were happy to carry on running a lead but wanted the plug sorted before they would sign off the job because they need to submit photos of the install.

I’m fairly comfortable wiring plugs and fans and switches and the like but never worked on a DB, but ended up having a video call with him and the neutral had been wired on the wrong bar and so it was pretty straight forward moving wire a few centimetre over and sorted and now he owes me a favour to sort out my smart switches.

Most of the actual job was copper work and then wrapping and painting that black insulation tubing around it while draining the old geyser in between and redirecting some of the internal plumbing and then getting the old geyser out of my garage roof.

I noticed tonight my Shelly on the garage motor isn’t working along with my Aqara door bell, of which the inside chime sits right on top of the gate motor so I hope it’s not a case of water having dripped in there and rather the plug being dead or possibly even turned off but that’s a tomorrow in daylight problem.

Anyway back to the actual unit, it’s a solid piece of kit and while quite tall and large ended up occupying less space than I expected and is still quite easy to get around in that section on the side of the house.

The touch panel and screen makes no sense because it has a rubber gasket and metal plate screwed over it like it’s meant to only be left open if installed inside…but they say very clearly you can’t install it inside due to the ventilation required and humidifying effect it has.

No real issue as I was never going to use it anyway and operate it via the App which is just the usual Tuya Smart Life I already use for a lot of other stuff.

The app itself does all the usual things and gives you a **** load of data I never anticipated from every inlet and outlet temperature to pumps and valves and what not.

Disappointingly it doesn’t expose any of those to the Home Assistant integration, including the current temperate itself which in reality I don’t really need to care about why more but was hoping to graph in this thread so people could see how quickly it warms up and cools down overnight etc.

I’ll probably try to reach someone on that side with a feature request to allow for all that data to come through.

So far the marketing seems real. Bearing in mind it went from stone cold brand new fresh water in the afternoon it hit 55-degrees at 18:00 or so and after three showers and one bath tonight by 20:00 when it switched off it used only 2.7kWh.

I opted to run it at 55 just like the old one for now to see what it does overnight and then next week Monday change it to 60 then compare how much of a difference that makes on consumption but also temperatures the next morning.

That’s all stuff I expected to just work so no surprised there but the thing that really sealed the deal for me was the increase in pressure. I intentionally flushed the toilet as I got into the shower and it hardly made any difference at all but the overall pressure is definitely increased so much so the shower sounds different.

First thing on my shopping list now is one of those kak fancy high pressure shower heads.

All in all first impressions are very good but obviously need to see what a full 24/7 cycle looks like.
Why would the pressure be different?
 
Why would the pressure be different?

It’s a higher pressure system and they actually make you sign a waiver that if you have pipes popping or pinholes suddenly appearing that it’s not their problem.

That being said I have no idea what the pressure was on the old system, but I’ve had a suspicion the pressure relief valve was dying since they replaced my water meter and some sand got into the plumbing so it could very well be a case of being “normal” now and therefore appearing more than it is.

Looking at the Kwikhot 150L that would have replaced my standard geyser if I opted for that it’s only 400 kPa whereas this is 600 kPa.

But I’m not sure if that’s just the incoming pressure because it also has a 3,000 kPa “operating pressure” but I suspect that internal to the unit itself and not what it outputs.

Not a plumber so not quite sure on that front.
 
It’s a higher pressure system and they actually make you sign a waiver that if you have pipes popping or pinholes suddenly appearing that it’s not their problem.

That being said I have no idea what the pressure was on the old system, but I’ve had a suspicion the pressure relief valve was dying since they replaced my water meter and some sand got into the plumbing so it could very well be a case of being “normal” now and therefore appearing more than it is.

Looking at the Kwikhot 150L that would have replaced my standard geyser if I opted for that it’s only 400 kPa whereas this is 600 kPa.

But I’m not sure if that’s just the incoming pressure because it also has a 3,000 kPa “operating pressure” but I suspect that internal to the unit itself and not what it outputs.

Not a plumber so not quite sure on that front.
AFAIK, the pressure is dictated by the municipal water pressure.
 
AFAIK, the pressure is dictated by the municipal water pressure.

Incoming for sure, but remember this goes through a pump and then out the other end, but then it should be lower when the unit is off…maybe something to test tomorrow.

But yeah like I said my pressure relief valve was on the blink recently and may very well have always been a bit **** before that.

And the pressure relief valve controls everything inside the house which is often why your outside taps are absolutely bonkers compared to the ones inside.

So as far as I know your pressure inside the house will only be as strong as the pressure relief valve that’s fitted as it bleeds off any excess.
 
Incoming for sure, but remember this goes through a pump and then out the other end, but then it should be lower when the unit is off…maybe something to test tomorrow.

But yeah like I said my pressure relief valve was on the blink recently and may very well have always been a bit **** before that.

And the pressure relief valve controls everything inside the house which is often why your outside taps are absolutely bonkers compared to the ones inside.

So as far as I know your pressure inside the house will only be as strong as the pressure relief valve that’s fitted as it bleeds off any excess.
I thought the pressure relief valve is on the geyser and is for expansion when water heats up? I'm not aware of any valves on cold taps and isn't the pump on the heat pump just to circulate the water.
 
I thought the pressure relief valve is on the geyser and is for expansion when water heats up? I'm not aware of any valves on cold taps and isn't the pump on the heat pump just to circulate the water.

Sorry you are right I’m referring to the pressure control valve.

It sits before your geyser on the main line and splits out the cold and hot water and also balances pressure between the two.

It basically equalises and reduces pressure before the geyser as the geyser is only rated for X kPa.

Big black one in the middle.

IMG_3572.jpeg

Pressure relief is on the left and yes that’s on the geyser itself to prevent it popping.
 
Sorry you are right I’m referring to the pressure control valve.

It sits before your geyser on the main line and splits out the cold and hot water and also balances pressure between the two.

It basically equalises and reduces pressure before the geyser as the geyser is only rated for X kPa.

Big black one in the middle.

View attachment 1910681

Pressure relief is on the left and yes that’s on the geyser itself to prevent it popping.
Thanks for the write-up!!!

I have 2 geysers installed in my roof on the second floor. Right above the main bedroom bed. Fscking genius. And no space to get to them. They installed them and then did the roof sheeting over them. Again, genius.

I have also been contemplating one of these if my geysers were to go pop. I have space on the second floor outside in the corner of a balcony, close to the current plumbing runs. I have a pressure-reducing valve on my main feed that goes into the house. With pressure gauges before and after the valve. At times, my municipal pressure can get to 8-9 bar. So the valve only lets 6 bar into the whole house.

My whole house runs on the essential side of my inverter. I run the geysers staggered. Also on 2 x CBI Astutes.
Geyser #1 from 10:30-12:30 and #2 from 12:30-:1430. They are also the biggest electricity consumers in my place.

So the solar supplies most of the geyser electricity, with Eskom jumping in every now and again to help with the load.

I have only ever seen the Magneto range of these, and then Deye makes a solar one I know of.

Keep the updates coming.
 
Nice. Now the big question, is there a way to integrate this into Home Assistant?

It sadly only exposes the on/off switch and the temperature setting (not the current reading) via the official Tuya integration.

I wonder if local-Tuya would be any different but I’m sure both are API based so would have the same limitations.

Will give it a try later today.
 
07:11 now and it’s been off since 20:00 last night and temperature is sitting at 32 degrees.

Have no idea how that accurately would compare to my old conventional geyser

It feels far colder than that in the tap though, but I didn’t want to waste water seeing if it gets hotter and this is the tap furthest away.
 
07:11 now and it’s been off since 20:00 last night and temperature is sitting at 32 degrees.

Have no idea how that accurately would compare to my old conventional geyser

It feels far colder than that in the tap though, but I didn’t want to waste water seeing if it gets hotter and this is the tap furthest away.
What was the starting point? As mine finished off 4:30pm at 55 degrees and with a shower this morning it's at 32 degrees?
 
What was the starting point? As mine finished off 4:30pm at 55 degrees and with a shower this morning it's at 32 degrees?

Was 43 at 20:02 which was just after the last shower.

So looking at it like that 10 degrees isn’t bad at all I reckon.
 
Was 43 at 20:02 which was just after the last shower.

So looking at it like that 10 degrees isn’t bad at all I reckon.
10 degrees isn't good :-( it should generally be 0.3 to 0.5 degree drop an hour. Unless more hot water was used in between and some cold came in? As the inlet on my side is registering 10 degrees up here. Oh forgot you guys have had rain and it's outside?
 
Was 43 at 20:02 which was just after the last shower.

So looking at it like that 10 degrees isn’t bad at all I reckon.
What's the spec for standing heat loss..? Pretty sure a standard geyser has far less standing heat loss than this..
 
10 degrees isn't good :-( it should generally be 0.3 to 0.5 degree drop an hour. Unless more hot water was used in between and some cold came in? As the inlet on my side is registering 10 degrees up here. Oh forgot you guys have had rain and it's outside?

No rain now, but there was some hot water used for dishes after that but really wasn’t all that much.

But will find a groove on temperature and/or timing.
 
No rain now, but there was some hot water used for dishes after that but really wasn’t all that much.

But will find a groove on temperature and/or timing.
You'd be surprised on how even that "little" water for washing dishes uses :-(. I normally have the heat pump switch off at 10pm, not cause of usage, but because of noise. It's not too noisy as you said, but mine is in a corner so it can reverb, which I don't want interrupting the neighbours.
But yup, right now you're in the learning phase on where and what to get the best out of it.
 
What's the spec for standing heat loss..? Pretty sure a standard geyser has far less standing heat loss than this..

Will have to check but I would think a fair comparison would be those “solar” geysers.

In fairness they do recommend leaving it on 24/7 and not turning it off at all but that makes no sense to my brain.

May be worth a test to run it like that one day and see if there’s really a major loss.

Kitchen tap which is closest feels pretty much ready to wash dishes or have a shower.
 
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