The main issue is how to operate any device connected to a small UPS.
UPS Stands for Uninterruptible Power Supply.
These devices are designed to provide minimal power backup when the power fails, measured in minutes.
They are NOT power back up systems. The time available is there for you to do one of two things:
1. Allow for an Automatic Break Supply Generator to start up and replace incoming mains power,
OR
2. Allow for an organised shut down of critical equipment.
The latter applies to most small businesses and residential homes, which is what you have to do.
The sooner you shut down your systems the better. You should NOT allow the batteries in the UPS to ever discharge completely.
Because of the power surges that are possible when the power returns after an LS event, it is always a good idea to disconnect all critical equipment after LS kicks in, and then re-connect after a few minutes have passed after the power returns. You may be able to avoid this step IF adequate surge protection has been provided for.
The minimum surge protection (Class III) should always be a surge protection power plug, or power strip surge multiplug, even when a UPS is used.
The best is to ensure your home is protected with Class I protection installed on the incoming power feed if you can get that done, and definitely Class II protection which you can get an electrician to provide for in your Main distribution board.
The UPS should be plugged in first after the power return. Then allow it to start up and reach a minimum charge on the batteries before starting up any devices again.
The above process is what you have to do IF you goe for el cheapo, low capacity and cost UPS devices, or no UPS devices. That is the trade-off.
The smaller the UPS units are, the more likely it will be that the batteries discharge too much delaying the return of power. And BTW, the batteries have to be checked regularly. There are no shortcuts in this business. Backup power costs money and personal effort.