Removing a Sonoff

Dolby

Dolby

Honorary Master
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
39,123
Reaction score
6,138
I had an electrician install my Sonoff devices behind my switches years ago. Now, I'd like to remove one.

I do have a neutral it seems.

Which am I removing?
Or best to call him back? IMG_20201101_121335.jpg
 
Connect the neutrals together, remove red wire from Sonoff and put where black wire is in switch.
 
Pretty sure the neutrals are already connected?
Should just be able to remove neutral from the sonoff, then do what you suggested with the lives
 
Steamy Tom said:
take the red out of the output side and connect it where the black on the switch is. that lovely non color coded black wire is the live switching the sonoff.

Also, never speak to that "electrician" again.
Click to expand...
Lol.

What did he do wrong? It worked?
So you're saying like the below?
What did you say I do with those lovely blacks?

IMG_20201101_142843.jpg
 
Dolby said:
Lol.

What did he do wrong? It worked?
So you're saying like the below?
What did you say I do with those lovely blacks?

View attachment 944254
Click to expand...
yes like that. You disconnect and discard those black wires. the one going into the N is the neutral, the one going into L is the switched live.

the way he did it meant that the switch had to be on to use the sonoff from the app, and once you turned it off at the wall means you could only turn it on at the wall. also he didnt flag up the switched live in the very least let alone just use red cable.
 
Steamy Tom said:
yes like that. You disconnect and discard those black wires. the one going into the N is the neutral, the one going into L is the switched live.

the way he did it meant that the switch had to be on to use the sonoff from the app, and once you turned it off at the wall means you could only turn it on at the wall. also he didnt flag up the switched live in the very least let alone just use red cable.
Click to expand...
Yea... it did mean the wall switch needed to stay on to use them, or they were offline.

He initially did have it your way though, but someone else said that could be a bit unsafe and in order for a CoC, I needed a real kill switch

But thanks for the help!
 
Dolby said:
Yea... it did mean the wall switch needed to stay on to use them, or they were offline.

He initially did have it your way though, but someone else said that could be a bit unsafe and in order for a CoC, I needed a real kill switch

But thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

if it were me i would put a double switch in, install it like he did (but with color coded wires :p and then have the second switch work on the GPIO pins to allow the device to work with the switch and app simultaneously and still have a cutoff for whatever that really means in the real world application of it.
 
Steamy Tom said:
if it were me i would put a double switch in, install it like he did (but with color coded wires :p and then have the second switch work on the GPIO pins to allow the device to work with the switch and app simultaneously and still have a cutoff for whatever that really means in the real world application of it.
Click to expand...
Or replace the Basic with a Mini and connect the switch to the S1 and S2?
 
Dolby said:
Yea... it did mean the wall switch needed to stay on to use them, or they were offline.

He initially did have it your way though, but someone else said that could be a bit unsafe and in order for a CoC, I needed a real kill switch

But thanks for the help!
Click to expand...

Is there a legal requirement for a kill switch?

I’ve got my iFan 03 “in line” with the original switch to the fan which also means it goes offline when the switch it turned off.

Been thinking to just chocolate block the live permanently but also been wondering if there is actually a real legal requirement for a switch.

Then surely these ceiling fans that only have a remote would never be allowed?
 
SauRoNZA said:
Is there a legal requirement for a kill switch?

I’ve got my iFan 03 “in line” with the original switch to the fan which also means it goes offline when the switch it turned off.

Been thinking to just chocolate block the live permanently but also been wondering if there is actually a real legal requirement for a switch.

Then surely these ceiling fans that only have a remote would never be allowed?
Click to expand...

Yes it's called an isolator switch. If you remove the switch and you have an emergency how will you turn off the circuit without running to the mains?
 
krieg said:
Yes it's called an isolator switch. If you remove the switch and you have an emergency how will you turn off the circuit without running to the mains?
Click to expand...

Well in my mind thats what the mains are for?

I mean then surely any plug obscured by furniture or some such would be equally illegal?

Isn’t the isolator requirement only over a particular amperage? Like a geyser and air con etc?

And where does that leave ceiling fans which only have wireless remote switches?
 
SauRoNZA said:
Is there a legal requirement for a kill switch?
Click to expand...

I've never recieved a clear cut answer. I've asked a few electricians about CoC and most didn't know enough to comment (this was 3 years ago - they may be better equipped now).

But one of the guys said it's fine as long as there is a physical switch. Unsure how correct he was. If so, how do things like smart switches work? And as you say, fans etc?

Would be great to have an electrician actually answer here and we could clear it up
 
SauRoNZA said:
Well in my mind thats what the mains are for?

I mean then surely any plug obscured by furniture or some such would be equally illegal?

Isn’t the isolator requirement only over a particular amperage? Like a geyser and air con etc?

And where does that leave ceiling fans which only have wireless remote switches?
Click to expand...

Yes you are correct the mains can turn off power to the circuit but in an emergency is someone going to know where your DB is hidden or would it be safer to have an isolating switch within arm's reach. The situation might seem unlikely but that is probably the reasoning.

Plugs that you plug in are different than the situation you're describing. I would use a lead with an extra switch if it's for anything that can become dangerous.

The amps doesn't really matter you can die from something in the milliamp range so that is most everything electronic. You are correct are geysers and aircons as well as shaver points, stoves etc.

Still need it in my opinion. Surely before the fan there must have been a light fitting that they took out to draw the power from that had a switch somewhere or is the fan connected to other lights on the same circuit?

If you need more information above is from section 6.9 of SANS 10142.
 
Dolby said:
I've never recieved a clear cut answer. I've asked a few electricians about CoC and most didn't know enough to comment (this was 3 years ago - they may be better equipped now).

But one of the guys said it's fine as long as there is a physical switch. Unsure how correct he was. If so, how do things like smart switches work? And as you say, fans etc?

Would be great to have an electrician actually answer here and we could clear it up
Click to expand...

The electricians seem to hang out on another forum.
You can also send your question to ECA
 
krieg said:
Yes you are correct the mains can turn off power to the circuit but in an emergency is someone going to know where your DB is hidden or would it be safer to have an isolating switch within arm's reach. The situation might seem unlikely but that is probably the reasoning.

Plugs that you plug in are different than the situation you're describing. I would use a lead with an extra switch if it's for anything that can become dangerous.

The amps doesn't really matter you can die from something in the milliamp range so that is most everything electronic. You are correct are geysers and aircons as well as shaver points, stoves etc.

Still need it in my opinion. Surely before the fan there must have been a light fitting that they took out to draw the power from that had a switch somewhere or is the fan connected to other lights on the same circuit?

If you need more information above is from section 6.9 of SANS 10142.
Click to expand...

So is it your opinion or is it actually a requirement?

If you are building a modern house there wouldn’t have been a previous light fitting and if you are planning this to be smart from the very start there would be no requirement for a physical switch at all from the technical needs perspective.

Hence the question.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X