Replacement garage motor battery (Centurion SDO4)

Load shedding did one of my garage opener's batteries in (Centurion RDO) a week ago. Finally got time today to go through to Centurion Systems in Kia sands and picked up a replacement and a spare as I suspect the other motor's ones will go soon. R300 for each set as it is a battery pair linked in series.

Very easy to replace. Just unplugging the leads, removing the old batteries from the simple bracket, and then replacing in reverse.
 
thehuman said:
To get 24v , need to series 2 x 12v batteries
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Correct. That's what I referring to, i.e if it was a 12v system then 2x conventional 12v alarm batteries (9ah each) x2 would yield a usable 18ah, but as it 24v the same 2 batteries would need to be wired in series and it would remain 9ah.

Geoff.D said:
9Ah compared to the existing 3.4 Ah is a substantial increase, much more than would be required surely? Why so hung up on 18Ah?

24VDC, 100W motor, 9Ah, say 90% efficiency and 50% DoD?
Plenty of run time.
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Current batteries are 2x24v 3.4ah in parallel I believe. So it's already at almost 7ah.

EDIT: The below makes me now doubt that.

Cius said:
Load shedding did one of my garage opener's batteries in (Centurion RDO) a week ago. Finally got time today to go through to Centurion Systems in Kia sands and picked up a replacement and a spare as I suspect the other motor's ones will go soon. R300 for each set as it is a battery pair linked in series.

Very easy to replace. Just unplugging the leads, removing the old batteries from the simple bracket, and then replacing in reverse.
Click to expand...
Interesting. The manual led me to believe it was 2x 24v in parallel. Just shows me I need to open this sucker up and see for myself before I do anything further.
 
Last edited:
Iwojima said:
Correct. That's what I referring to, i.e if it was a 12v system then 2x conventional 12v alarm batteries (9ah each) x2 would yield a usable 18ah, but as it 24v the same 2 batteries would need to be wired in series and it would remain 9ah.


Current batteries are 2x24v 3.4ah in parallel I believe. So it's already at almost 7ah.

EDIT: The below makes me now doubt that.


Interesting. The manual led me to believe it was 2x 24v in parallel. Just shows me I need to open this sucker up and see for myself before I do anything further.
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Im too lazy to check mine, but Im pretty sure its 2x 12v in series. Even when the battery was new it couldn only handle one or two opening/closing actions before it was dead, so Im more inclined to think 3.4ah is more likely.
 
Rocket-Boy said:
Im too lazy to check mine, but Im pretty sure its 2x 12v in series. Even when the battery was new it couldn only handle one or two opening/closing actions before it was dead, so Im more inclined to think 3.4ah is more likely.
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I used to get around 10 when it was new (double wide aluminium sectional door). Now it has a sh*tfit in less than half of that and starts beeping about low voltage the moment the power trips.
 
so since last week my garage opens up by a few inches and I have to repeatedly press the remote and eventually it opens the garage. The motor says “LB” and the light flashes as it stalls. It closes the garage perfectly.

can the garage operate with electricity but with dead batteries orvis this a motor problem?
This problem started after the floods and we had a power outage for a few days.
 
Moepa said:
so since last week my garage opens up by a few inches and I have to repeatedly press the remote and eventually it opens the garage. The motor says “LB” and the light flashes as it stalls. It closes the garage perfectly.

can the garage operate with electricity but with dead batteries orvis this a motor problem?
This problem started after the floods and we had a power outage for a few days.
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Some garage or gate motor use battery , when done it slowly refill lost energy in battery via charger.
 
thehuman said:
Some garage or gate motor use battery , when done it slowly refill lost energy in battery via charger.
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Thanks , apprently due to frequent surges my charger was overcharging and landlord is replacing the charger
 
The charger is totally under specified. My battery died and the motor simply won't work on mains. Poor security design, it should work on either mains or battery. Bigger battery will help, but I think the power supply needs some work now that it is out of guarantee. Not a product for current scenario in za
 
rh1 said:
As per thread in post 4 that @Gordon_R linked. Its been +/- a year since the upgrade, and the 2 x 7ah 12v battery connected in series, has not let me down.
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Aren't the 7Ah batteries much bigger? How did you fit it?

Please upload a photo of it, if you can.
 
Larry_Fisherman said:
Aren't the 7Ah batteries much bigger? How did you fit it?

Please upload a photo of it, if you can.
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Everything with details posted in this thread:

24v 3.5ah Battery vs 2x12v 7ah battery

Hi My 24v 3.5ah Garage Motor battery needs to be replaced. It seems to be around the R550 mark. I have 12v7ah batteries which are in good condition. Can I connect in series, and use it to replace my garage door motor battery? Will there be any complications or is there anything why this...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za
 
Cius said:
Load shedding did one of my garage opener's batteries in (Centurion RDO) a week ago. Finally got time today to go through to Centurion Systems in Kia sands and picked up a replacement and a spare as I suspect the other motor's ones will go soon. R300 for each set as it is a battery pair linked in series.

Very easy to replace. Just unplugging the leads, removing the old batteries from the simple bracket, and then replacing in reverse.
Click to expand...
I just found out that Centurion garage door openers are fully battery operated so the plug basically only charges the battery if battery dies the motor does not work of electricity, terribly poor design, batteries need to be constantly replaced given excessive black outs....this is after 4 months... Pathetic Centurion SD04
 
Dinyg said:
I just found out that Centurion garage door openers are fully battery operated so the plug basically only charges the battery if battery dies the motor does not work of electricity, terribly poor design, batteries need to be constantly replaced given excessive black outs....this is after 4 months... Pathetic Centurion SD04
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The design is not the issue, its the choice of battery. Same principle as a car. So long as it constantly charges it's fine. However if the battery charge goes bellow 50% the lead acid batteries quickly take damage and die. So with centurion you should not open using the battery during load shedding more than perhaps once and then let it charge. If you run the battery dead a few times those batteries die. Still, I read somewhere here about people that had a lithium ion drop in replacement for some centurion products that work better it seems. Just not sure if the charger for lead acid and lithium is interchangeable so never tried it.
 
It should work of electricity and then battery when there is no electricity not full reliance on battery even when there is electricity, that's just silly
 
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Dinyg said:
It should work of electricity and then battery when there is no electricity not full reliance on battery even when there is electricity, that's just silly
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If there is no electricity, it uses battery, if there is electricity it uses electricity through the battery. I think every garage/gate motor works like this. Get an LFP battery.
 
Gordon_R said:
Very similar issue discussed in this thread:

24v 3.5ah Battery vs 2x12v 7ah battery

Hi My 24v 3.5ah Garage Motor battery needs to be replaced. It seems to be around the R550 mark. I have 12v7ah batteries which are in good condition. Can I connect in series, and use it to replace my garage door motor battery? Will there be any complications or is there anything why this...
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za
Click to expand...
Two 12v7ah batteries in series gives you 24v7ah

Though you can only use 3.5ah from a 7ah lead acid

If you can find a battery that meets the amps the motor pulls

If replacing lead acid with a lithium best to do lifep04 as they match lead acid voltage and charge settings best

ie the lithium bms has to be rated for the amount of amps you want to pull

All batteries are replaceable
If you know the requirements and can find one that meets what you need

You can even build your own
If you don't find the correct one

www.electromannsa.com sell custom packs with higher rated bms have also seen 24v packs

If your load exceeds of the shelf
Lithium drop in replacements
 
Cius said:
The design is not the issue, its the choice of battery. Same principle as a car. So long as it constantly charges it's fine. However if the battery charge goes bellow 50% the lead acid batteries quickly take damage and die. So with centurion you should not open using the battery during load shedding more than perhaps once and then let it charge. If you run the battery dead a few times those batteries die. Still, I read somewhere here about people that had a lithium ion drop in replacement for some centurion products that work better it seems. Just not sure if the charger for lead acid and lithium is interchangeable so never tried it.
Click to expand...
Yea the added benefit of using a lithium replacement is running it down to 0% doesn't"t break the battery like lead acid

Sure you will get less cycles out of it but it still works perfect

The other is the gate speed is unaffected by lithium state of charge
ie that gate will move the exact same speed on a 90% discharged lithium

Be sure to get a lifep04 as the voltage is a better fit for lead acid replacement and charging

but do keep it it mind it has to say lifep04
Though other lithium types are scarce to see they do exist
 
Iwojima said:
Sticking this one thread under this section as it's Load Shedding related.

Anyone know if the Centurion SDO4 batteries are user replaceable? It seems opening and closing mine too often during power outages has killed the batteries.

The manual gives you every detail under the sun on how to configure the opener, details on the batteries (2x 3.4ah 24v) but zero info on whether they are user replaceable. Where they are stored on the unit does not look particularly accessable either (squeezed between the ceiling and motor housing).
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Did you replace the batteries? I removed the whole motor to get it away from ceiling but now the old batteries seems to be glued to the inside of its case, it feels that i need to break something to remove them?
 
blouapl24 said:
Did you replace the batteries? I removed the whole motor to get it away from ceiling but now the old batteries seems to be glued to the inside of its case, it feels that i need to break something to remove them?
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They usually have a double sided foam tape stuck on. You should be able to tear it off or cut through it from the side.
 
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