Seal garage floor

animal531 said:
Epoxy seems a lot easier to do?
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yip industrial epoxy is used throughout industry .workshops etc its bullet proof and easy to keep clean .no knock together product can be fully water /fluid resistant .you may end up with a huge mould or bacteria infestation under it .
 
I looked at the interlocking tiles when I did my floor. My friend has them in his garage and they work well until you need to turn the wheels and then they end up pulling the tiles up. He has older ones so not sure if this is still a problem.

I ended up cleaning the floor in my garage with a paint scraper as well as some de greaser. Left it to dry for 24hrs and then vacuumed the floor.

Then used a two part epoxy floor paint to paint the floor. Its held up pretty well over the last three years. One spot bubbled up.

Something like this - https://zaf.sika.com/en/residential-and-homeimprovement/products/flooring/sikafloor-garage.html
 
soulie said:
i wouldnt be able to do it myself .to float epoxy isnt easy .
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Once it’s evenly spread out Epoxy should be self levelling?
There should be plenty videos on how to do it on YouTube.

If the op is working with fluids and brewing liquids I definitely wouldn’t put interlocking tiles down, it will get really manky under those tiles very soon and then become unsanitary.

A good quality 2-pack floor paint works great, even the single pack stuff is fine, especially if it’s just for DIY use at home but epoxy is the best.
 
jezzad said:
Then used a two part epoxy floor paint to paint the floor. Its held up pretty well over the last three years. One spot bubbled up.

Something like this - https://zaf.sika.com/en/residential-and-homeimprovement/products/flooring/sikafloor-garage.html
Click to expand...

That’s good stuff, I don’t see anything difficult in the application requirements:

PRIMER

Pour mixed primer onto the prepared substrate and apply by brush, roller or squeegee.
Back roller in two directions at right angles to each other.
Note: Ensure a continuous, pore free coat covers the substrate. If necessary, apply two priming coats.
Confirm waiting / overcoating time has been achieved before applying subsequent products.
Refer to individual primer Product Data Sheet.

COATING

Apply the Product onto the prepared substrate using a short-piled roller in two directions at right angles to each other.
Note: A seamless finish can be achieved if a ‘wet’ edge is maintained during application.
 
airborne said:
Once it’s evenly spread out Epoxy should be self levelling?
There should be plenty videos on how to do it on YouTube.

If the op is working with fluids and brewing liquids I definitely wouldn’t put interlocking tiles down, it will get really manky under those tiles very soon and then become unsanitary.

A good quality 2-pack floor paint works great, even the single pack stuff is fine, especially if it’s just for DIY use at home but epoxy is the best.
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Yeah, leaning away from the tiles looking at poly and epoxy now
 
Trying this for a small screeded area that didn’t go according to plan.

IMG_0943.jpg
 
azbob said:
Nope, bathroom. It’s solvent based though compared to the Duram in your OP which I think is waterbased. Don’t know about garages but datasheet says “not suitable for driveways”.

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Ah ok thanks, think im leaning more towards the Duram again. Will see and post results etc. I have loads of cleaning up first anyway before I get to that point but needed to think about it so long

YAY holiday projects :)
 
Also not a fan of the interlocking rubber tiles. Had them in my garage and had some nasty mold grow underneath. Was an absolute mess to remove.
 
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