Nice thing about Xiaomi is it can be "paired" with their motion detector to turn lights on based on motion - I'm doing this in my study - its always dark - so the light always needs to be on when you're in the room.
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The state after power-loss is settable. However, if its set to On after powerloss - and there's a power failure - they'll be "On" until the next schedule/instruction is run, this isn't really an issue for me as I don't experience many power failures.
The big problem I face with integrating smart devices into a home is that people still want to be able to switch them manually. And there is currently no good solution for this, that allows the manual switch, and still enables automatic/remote switching as well :-(
What are the choices for this setting? Off or On? Can they remember the last setting?
Isn't this manual and WiFI?
http://www.geewiz.co.za/mobile-wifi...eck&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=pricecheck
this isn't really an issue for me as I don't experience many power failures.
I think it can do previous state - I'll have to check at home. All mine are off at the moment. (Eskom outage)
:crylaugh:
Yes, it is. However, it requires you to have a neutral line in the switch box to power the switch, and that is not very common in ZA (or elsewhere, for that matter). Of course, you can easily run a neutral into the switch box, I guess. Unfortunately, it only looks good for a single switch, which can be a problem for some situations.
Ja quite a problem for new homes. I had this problem in a place my daughter purchased recently. None of the light wall switches had neutral lines in them, only Live and the conductor to the light fitting.
Yet my own home has a neutral running through every single switch box.
I don't even know what that means. So, assuming I don't have this cable, it won't work at all?
I think my complex is 15 years old.
Do I just unscrew to see if 2 or 3 wires currently?
I don't even know what that means. So, assuming I don't have this cable, it won't work at all?
I think my complex is 15 years old.
Do I just unscrew to see if 2 or 3 wires currently?
So, if you open the switch plate (be careful, turn off the mains first!), you are likely to see 1+(number of switches) wires. i.e. 1 live coming in, and then n wires going to each switched device. These will most likely be red for the live, and either blue or red for the outgoing wires.
If you have a black wire, you should be in business. If you don't, you will need to get one run to the switch box, otherwise you will not be able to power the switch itself!
And do keep the "RF in a metal box" post in mind - I really don't know how well something like that will work out for you!