Smart Light Switch With Out Load

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I'm currently replacing all my old lever light switches with Tuya Smart Switches that do not require Neutral connections but I've run into a bit of a snag.

I have a 3-way switch setup on one of my lights with one switch at the bottom of the stairs and the other at the top of the stairs. The current lever switches have 3 wires (L-in L-out and bridge/traveler) but the smart switches only have 2 (L-in and L-out). I've looked at the smart switch option but I would still need a traveler line between the two Tuya switches.

I'm thinking of just removing the bottom Smart Switch completely from the main line to the light and placing them in a multi-control group on the Smart Life app. Now my main question is how do I connect the bottom switch to get power and complete the circuit ? My thoughts are that I use L-in and at the L-out point, I connect the Neutral to that point to complete the circuit. My concern is that I might encounter issues due to there not being any load on the line.

Any suggestions/advice or alternative ideas?
 
I'm currently replacing all my old lever light switches with Tuya Smart Switches that do not require Neutral connections but I've run into a bit of a snag.

I have a 3-way switch setup on one of my lights with one switch at the bottom of the stairs and the other at the top of the stairs. The current lever switches have 3 wires (L-in L-out and bridge/traveler) but the smart switches only have 2 (L-in and L-out). I've looked at the smart switch option but I would still need a traveler line between the two Tuya switches.

I'm thinking of just removing the bottom Smart Switch completely from the main line to the light and placing them in a multi-control group on the Smart Life app. Now my main question is how do I connect the bottom switch to get power and complete the circuit ? My thoughts are that I use L-in and at the L-out point, I connect the Neutral to that point to complete the circuit. My concern is that I might encounter issues due to there not being any load on the line.

Any suggestions/advice or alternative ideas?
not sure what a traveler is ,you have 2 switches ,each with a common point and 2 switched points ,you have 2 switched wires ,maybe blue ,there is no neutral in a 2 way circuit ,that goes straight to the outlet ,maybe this will help .your live may originate from the upstairs or downstairs ,you may or may not have a neutral in the same pipe and your switched live may come out the top floor or bottom floor depending where its outlet is
 

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not sure what a traveler is ,you have 2 switches ,each with a common point and 2 switched points ,you have 2 switched wires ,maybe blue ,there is no neutral in a 2 way circuit ,that goes straight to the outlet ,maybe this will help .your live may originate from the upstairs or downstairs ,you may or may not have a neutral in the same pipe and your switched live may come out the top floor or bottom floor depending where its outlet is
The old switches have three wires as per your drawing.

With the Tuya light switch there are only two wires, in at L and out at L2, with no connector point. L1 and L3 are deadpoints20240130_212148.jpg
 
The old switches have three wires as per your drawing.

With the Tuya light switch there are only two wires, in at L and out at L2, with no connector point. L1 and L3 are deadpointsView attachment 1654254
ja not gonna get 2 way with that ,you could use relays but that will he a pain ,you need a controller with one common and a N/O and a N/C contactor ,still not ideal though as they would have to be pulse on or pulse off .without a neutral to feedback on that type of thing it will maybe work once then loose the N and stop working so it will have to have a onboard N connection ,seperate to the switched side .so with that you will be able to turn on and off untill the other unit switches then it will be dead .there must be a product for 2 way switching ,cant be the only user with this problem ,you also cant connect a N straight into the L2 as it will short the relay out and boooom .
 
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