Sonoff SV as a relay (Gate motor)

Dairyfarmer

Dairyfarmer

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EDIT: I solved this problem and hence changed the thread name. Just go straight to post 3. I'll leave the rest for interest sake.


I have a Sonoff SV that I want to add to my gate motor and I need a relay to close the circuit between COM and Trigger. Anyone know where I can get relays in PMB?

My setup is that I am going to install the SV near the doorphone because the motor is too far from wifi. I can draw 12v from the doorphone and just need to close the circuit for the gate lock.
765116
 
Last edited:
I’m confused, the SV is a relay so why can’t you use it to close the circuit at the Door Phone side?

Otherwise how do you plan to communicate with the relay you want to install at the gate?

Presumably the door phone can open the gate? So let the SV trigger it on that or the pair or wires that it’s using to talk to the gate.

Maybe a picture will explain it better.

The picture of the SV is rather pointless.
 
The Trigger and COM need to be switched closed (bridged) to simulate a button press. This can be done at the gate or via the doorphone. The COM is negative. The Negative on the SV is not switched, i.e. it is always live.

So the relay is needed to bridge Trigger and COM.

I'll try the wiring in the above video. Looks fairly simple. I'll leave out the reed switch.

BTW anyone wanting to know the best definition of inching? Simulating pressing the button on your remote. Easy as that. If you need to press the button for 1 second to get the gate to open, this is what inching does.
 
Dairyfarmer said:
I have a Sonoff SV that I want to add to my gate motor and I need a relay to close the circuit between COM and Trigger. Anyone know where I can get relays in PMB?

My setup is that I am going to install the SV near the doorphone because the motor is too far from wifi. I can draw 12v from the doorphone and just need to close the circuit for the gate lock.
View attachment 765116
Click to expand...
Midas or any car part place.
 
@Steamy Tom

Thanks for the video link.

Here is what I did:
765154

1 = +In and + Out
These go to COM and TRIGGER. On my doorphone there are the top 2 poles and are Green and Black. The order doesn't matter.
2 = remove these 2 resistors with a small screwdriver. Not sure is this is necessary for just relaying.
3 = connect + and - wires. On my doorphone they are the bottom two poles and are Red and Grey. I did this to avoid using another power supply. 5 - 24V input required. Your SV will also work for as long as the gate battery has power.

You can do the same at the gate motor. The + and - from the battery to 3 and TRIGGER and COM to 1.

I tested it before installing by connecting 12v to 3. Then using my multitester I sent a 1 second inch (would that be the way to say it?) to the SV. I got a dead short across the + In and + Out. This simulates a button press of 1 second. Will install it in place this afternoon.

I have left off the reed sensor because the SV will be in the house not at the gate.

Now in hindsight I didn't need to solder those screw terminals on. Don't need both + and -. Oh well we learn.
 
Last edited:
Dairyfarmer said:
@SauRoNZA

Thanks for the video link.

Here is what I did:
View attachment 765154

1 = +In and + Out
These go to COM and TRIGGER. On my doorphone there are the top 2 poles and are Green and Black. The order doesn't matter.
2 = remove these 2 resistors with a small screwdriver. Not sure is this is necessary for just relaying.
3 = connect + and - wires. On my doorphone they are the bottom two poles and are Red and Grey. I did this to avoid using another power supply. 5 - 24V input required.

You can do the same at the gate motor. The + and - from the battery to 3 and TRIGGER and COM to 1.

I tested it before installing by connecting 12v to 3. Then using my multitester I sent a 1 second inch (would that be the way to say it?) to the SV. I got a dead short across the + In and + Out. This simulates a button press of 1 second. Will install it in place this afternoon.

Now in hindsight I didn't need to solder those screw terminals on. Don't need both + and -. Oh well we learn.
Click to expand...

glad i could help :p
 
Dairyfarmer said:
@Steamy Tom

Thanks for the video link.

Here is what I did:
View attachment 765154

1 = +In and + Out
These go to COM and TRIGGER. On my doorphone there are the top 2 poles and are Green and Black. The order doesn't matter.
2 = remove these 2 resistors with a small screwdriver. Not sure is this is necessary for just relaying.
3 = connect + and - wires. On my doorphone they are the bottom two poles and are Red and Grey. I did this to avoid using another power supply. 5 - 24V input required. Your SV will also work for as long as the gate battery has power.

You can do the same at the gate motor. The + and - from the battery to 3 and TRIGGER and COM to 1.

I tested it before installing by connecting 12v to 3. Then using my multitester I sent a 1 second inch (would that be the way to say it?) to the SV. I got a dead short across the + In and + Out. This simulates a button press of 1 second. Will install it in place this afternoon.

Now in hindsight I didn't need to solder those screw terminals on. Don't need both + and -. Oh well we learn.
Click to expand...

Good stuff.

You original post was deeply confusing with a relay in hand and looking for another.

My garage, gate and alarm are all hooked up with SV’s like this.
 
@SauRoNZA

I wasn't aware that you could use the SV as a relay. My understanding was it was a Basic but for 5-24V DC. Hence the need for a relay to bridge COM and TRIGGER. My that I have it all wired up correctly I now understand.
 
Dairyfarmer said:
@SauRoNZA

I wasn't aware that you could use the SV as a relay. My understanding was it was a Basic but for 5-24V DC. Hence the need for a relay to bridge COM and TRIGGER. My that I have it all wired up correctly I now understand.
Click to expand...

It is always a relay even like that.

You mean that you weren’t aware you could make it a dry contact relay.
 
765280
@SauRoNZA
Just to confirm what I see here.

In Default Mode it works just like a Basic, except 5 to 24volts and 5v only with jumper. Wet Contactor.

In Isolated Mode (i.e. both resistors removed), the board is powered by 5-24v (could be a panel or battery or power converter,...). You can the either use upt o 30volts DC or 250volts AC. But unlike a Basic, the seperate power supply does the switching. Dry Contactor.
 
For me, I didn't want to tinker with my gate motor. So I bought an extra remote, soldered the output from the SV to the button terminals of the remote, and voila! I can open and close my gate with the SV.
 
digitalp said:
For me, I didn't want to tinker with my gate motor. So I bought an extra remote, soldered the output from the SV to the button terminals of the remote, and voila! I can open and close my gate with the SV.
Click to expand...
You don't have to tinker with the gate motor at all.

There is a pair of wires going to the intercom that carries 12V. There is your power.
There is a pair of wires going to the intercom that connect to Common and Trigger at the gate motor. You use this to simulate a button press.

You can hook into the wires anywhere along the wire. It doesn't need to be at the motor or at the intercom. just somewhere with good wifi signal. No need to worry about remote batteries going flat or buying a power supply to run the SV. It all runs off your gate motor battery.
 
digitalp said:
For me, I didn't want to tinker with my gate motor. So I bought an extra remote, soldered the output from the SV to the button terminals of the remote, and voila! I can open and close my gate with the SV.
Click to expand...

I mean if it works it works, but I feel like you just added extra steps, plus you have no way to know now if the gate is closed as I assume your son off and remote are inside.
 
SauRoNZA said:
It is always a relay even like that.

You mean that you weren’t aware you could make it a dry contact relay.
Click to expand...
I added an external relay since I just followed the wiring diagram on the SmartKit website :D
 
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