Starting out with Sonoff

Thanks all I can get the T0 switches at a great price any reason I would not take them over T2. The 433 remote doesnt really bother me just want to make sure there isnt something else im missing apart from the looks
Be sure you are good with the soft touch switches.

I would recommend you start with 1 or 2 before you invest too much in them. Its horrible to manually switch them on/off with touch. Especially when you sleepy and your eyes not focussing.

Thats why I went with Shelly switches (you can use the sonoff mini if you want) and physical switches I can switch even in my sleep.

Also when guests over, the physical switches is something everyone understand, not every person out there is fond of the soft touch even in day light when fully awake.
 
Be sure you are good with the soft touch switches.

I would recommend you start with 1 or 2 before you invest too much in them. Its horrible to manually switch them on/off with touch. Especially when you sleepy and your eyes not focussing.

Thats why I went with Shelly switches (you can use the sonoff mini if you want) and physical switches I can switch even in my sleep.

Also when guests over, the physical switches is something everyone understand, not every person out there is fond of the soft touch even in day light when fully awake.

Not fond of the of the soft touch stuff.

I am looking to get some Shelly 1L's (Trying to find a local supplier) as a couple of my wall switches do not have any neutral wires in them.
 
Be sure you are good with the soft touch switches.

I would recommend you start with 1 or 2 before you invest too much in them. Its horrible to manually switch them on/off with touch. Especially when you sleepy and your eyes not focussing.

Thats why I went with Shelly switches (you can use the sonoff mini if you want) and physical switches I can switch even in my sleep.

Also when guests over, the physical switches is something everyone understand, not every person out there is fond of the soft touch even in day light when fully awake.
interesting point you make which shelly switch you using?
 
interesting point you make which shelly switch you using?
Have different shelly switches.

Most are Shelly2.5 because they go into boxes where there are 2 switches. Nice thing is, they do power monitoring.

I then have 3x Shelly Dimmers (not available anymore) and later added 2x Shelly Dimmer2s (newer version). They do monitoring and also dimming in 2 bedrooms, lounge, kitchen and braai room. Dimming adds nice power saving when you have a bunch of dimmale GU10 bulbs (downlights).

Then 1x Shelly1PM for the pool pump.
A few Shelly1 switches for single switch boxes. These don't get used much so saved on going shelly1 instead of 1PM.

All of these work great and basically is the most solid home automation product I have ever bought. I use them in MQTT mode with Home Assistant. Haven't flashed them at all to Tasmota. I prefer the shelly firmware. I hate stock sonoff firmware.

There are some newer products out by shelly now which is even better. Shelly1PM PLUS that allows scripting and pairing with bluetooth etc. They also brought out DB versions of their switches which are epic. I will use them for the pool in the future as mounting will be far easier.

To show you how overboard I went with amount of switches: (some are sonoffs flashed to tasmota)
Most of them just work, but sometimes I need to fiddle with tasmota/sonoffs.

Screenshot 2022-03-14 at 08.59.11.png
 
Have different shelly switches.

Most are Shelly2.5 because they go into boxes where there are 2 switches. Nice thing is, they do power monitoring.

I then have 3x Shelly Dimmers (not available anymore) and later added 2x Shelly Dimmer2s (newer version). They do monitoring and also dimming in 2 bedrooms, lounge, kitchen and braai room. Dimming adds nice power saving when you have a bunch of dimmale GU10 bulbs (downlights).

Then 1x Shelly1PM for the pool pump.
A few Shelly1 switches for single switch boxes. These don't get used much so saved on going shelly1 instead of 1PM.

All of these work great and basically is the most solid home automation product I have ever bought. I use them in MQTT mode with Home Assistant. Haven't flashed them at all to Tasmota. I prefer the shelly firmware. I hate stock sonoff firmware.

There are some newer products out by shelly now which is even better. Shelly1PM PLUS that allows scripting and pairing with bluetooth etc. They also brought out DB versions of their switches which are epic. I will use them for the pool in the future as mounting will be far easier.

To show you how overboard I went with amount of switches: (some are sonoffs flashed to tasmota)
Most of them just work, but sometimes I need to fiddle with tasmota/sonoffs.

View attachment 1269034
Thanks! Will need to look into this as an option as well.

Just had neutrals pulled so atleast I have options so all good!
 
I can confirm that the touch type switches are horrible. I did the whole house with these on a whim - the idea of these seemed pretty cool at the time.

Look for momentary mechanical switches and have Sonoff mini's behind them in the wall box. Variety is a little limited on the momentary switches, but they give the best of both worlds: tactile feel while not interfering/overriding the operation of the smart switch concept.
 
I can confirm that the touch type switches are horrible. I did the whole house with these on a whim - the idea of these seemed pretty cool at the time.

Look for momentary mechanical switches and have Sonoff mini's behind them in the wall box. Variety is a little limited on the momentary switches, but they give the best of both worlds: tactile feel while not interfering/overriding the operation of the smart switch concept.
If you do minis do you need one per light gang or can you do more?

For example I have 1 2 3 gang switches

Does it sit in light box or roof?
 
If you do minis do you need one per light gang or can you do more?

For example I have 1 2 3 gang switches

Does it sit in light box or roof?
Mini will only do 1 light. If you want to do more, look at the Shelly. If you can mount in the roof where there's more space, then you can go for the multi channel versions. But that's a lot of cabling to pull through. No matter if you go sonoff or shelly, I'd say the maximum amount of lights is 2 if you want a simple install in the same wall box as the light switch
 
If you do minis do you need one per light gang or can you do more?

For example I have 1 2 3 gang switches

Does it sit in light box or roof?
I have I think 1 location where I put in 2 things behind the light switches. It is a super tight fit and expect a few tries to get them in without the cables popping out. Most of the time a single device is already a challenge, so if you can, try to not put 2 behind a switch panel. Probably the only advantage the T0/2 have over shelly/mini.
 
I can confirm that the touch type switches are horrible. I did the whole house with these on a whim - the idea of these seemed pretty cool at the time.

Look for momentary mechanical switches and have Sonoff mini's behind them in the wall box. Variety is a little limited on the momentary switches, but they give the best of both worlds: tactile feel while not interfering/overriding the operation of the smart switch concept.

I did my entire place and honestly I don't miss old type switches at all.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Once you get used to the idea of using it like a smart phone and not a button it makes it a lot easier to "tap touch" the buttons on and off.
 
I did my entire place and honestly I don't miss old type switches at all.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.

Once you get used to the idea of using it like a smart phone and not a button it makes it a lot easier to "tap touch" the buttons on and off.
Yeah sure, totally subjective. It's just been almost 20 months in my case and I still hate it haha
 
Mini will only do 1 light. If you want to do more, look at the Shelly. If you can mount in the roof where there's more space, then you can go for the multi channel versions. But that's a lot of cabling to pull through. No matter if you go sonoff or shelly, I'd say the maximum amount of lights is 2 if you want a simple install in the same wall box as the light switch
Thanks for this advice just ordered 1 switch for the spot that will be used the most - a good test if we like it or not.

Also using it for the scene setting in particular

- Movie lighting on

TV room and library lights off.

TV room lamps and library lights on.
 
Thanks for this advice just ordered 1 switch for the spot that will be used the most - a good test if we like it or not.

Also using it for the scene setting in particular

- Movie lighting on

TV room and library lights off.

TV room lamps and library lights on.
You gonna wet your pants when you start playing with multi-tap using Tasmota. It's easily one of the coolest features in my house - where one button can control multiple things based on short-long-double-whatever push. Ideal for setting scenes. And this can all be done using Tasmota MQTT rules - you don't even need to set up Automations in Home Assistant - or have it running at all.
 
You gonna wet your pants when you start playing with multi-tap using Tasmota. It's easily one of the coolest features in my house - where one button can control multiple things based on short-long-double-whatever push. Ideal for setting scenes. And this can all be done using Tasmota MQTT rules - you don't even need to set up Automations in Home Assistant - or have it running at all.
ooh thanks will look into that!
 
How would I go about triggering the alarm using PAI? I see one of the devs said to wire a PGM to a zone then trigger the PGM. He mentioned a 1k Ohm resistor and a transistor. Not sure how to proceed here. Anyone help out please?
 
Be sure you are good with the soft touch switches.

I would recommend you start with 1 or 2 before you invest too much in them. Its horrible to manually switch them on/off with touch. Especially when you sleepy and your eyes not focussing.

Thats why I went with Shelly switches (you can use the sonoff mini if you want) and physical switches I can switch even in my sleep.

Also when guests over, the physical switches is something everyone understand, not every person out there is fond of the soft touch even in day light when fully awake.
Sonoff switch arrived going with one for now also setting up dedicated email address for it. Just realised its 1-2mm narrower than the wall switches so I will need to do some touch ups. Dont have paint for all the rooms so might need to work something else out.

But the testing can atleast start.
 
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Need your help setting up a Sonoff Zigbee bridge please guys.

I've got a cable but the bridge requires 5v 1A power supply - so shall I use the black adapter? Do I have to do anything about "switching polarity" etc? Just making sure.

20220320_183016.jpg

20220320_182845.jpg
 
Need your help setting up a Sonoff Zigbee bridge please guys.

I've got a cable but the bridge requires 5v 1A power supply - so shall I use the black adapter? Do I have to do anything about "switching polarity" etc? Just making sure.

View attachment 1273960

View attachment 1273962
Any one of those 4 will provide the 5A 1A required. Note that polarity is VERY important. You must match the positive on the power supply to positive on the Zigbee bridge and the negatives must also be connected to each other.
 
Any one of those 4 will provide the 5A 1A required. Note that polarity is VERY important. You must match the positive on the power supply to positive on the Zigbee bridge and the negatives must also be connected to each other.

Thanks so much Deesef, appreciate your help. In that case I'll use one of the newer white ones.

Also thanks for the polarity info, will check and double check o_O
 
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