Tyre issues - alignment cause?

Dolby

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Jan 31, 2005
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The report

DSC_0043.jpg

EDIT : Just noticed the rear camber ; he made it worse than it was ?
 

TehStranger

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Car seems to hate tyres, don't think you'll ever get this fixed. I'm a good person though, so I will save you some heartache.

I offer R99,999 and will collect. :whistling:
 

Sinbad

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Rear camber has not changed on that printout.

Front toe was way out of spec - there's your culprit.
Front left camber is slightly too high, but I don't think that's adjustable on a mcpherson strut setup. Not likely to cause issues.
 

SauRoNZA

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There is really little difference between the tube and the tubeless tyre. The air pressure will push out at the tyre, regardless if there is a tube inside or not. The tyre does not have any structure inside to prevent it from bowing out due to over inflation. The reason why you probably don't see any significant wear is because you over inflate by about 0,4 bar (depending on what your normal pressure is). That is not a lot, but under inflation can easily be 1 bar below what is recommended (especially low profile tyres you don't easily see under inflation). So if you want to be safe you can over inflate a bit, but the best is to stick to the recommended pressure based on vehicle load. Obviously if you have different tyres on than what was stock on the car the ideal pressure could change a bit.

Yeah I figure the primary logic is that over inflation isn't as big a concern as one would think and you need to REALLY over do it to get the results shown in those pictures.

Whereas even the slightest under inflation will eat away the edges and also put extra stress on the sidewalls.

Add to that I think many manufacturers see tyres as part of the suspension system and advise softer figures to make the car run more comfortably and you can't go wrong over inflating rather than under inflating.

Not to mention lower rolling resistance and all that.


My logic with regards to the tubed tyres was simply that a tube would push out a bubble if over inflated and therefore push out the actual tyre. Overinflating a rim sealed tyre doesn't quite have the same result.


At the end of the day it's probably much like the Nitrogen thing which actually has no real world effects unless in extremely special conditions.
 
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silver6933

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1. I drive a turbo scoob( AWD)

Front Settings

Your front camber is significantly more than on my car. I only set the car to 1,5 deg negative camber, when going to the track(-1 negative or less is fine for normal road use.). It will allow a longer tyre life.

2. Such amount of negative camber and lower pressures will cause abnormal wear. Also driving less aggressively with an aggressive camber setting, will eat the tyres.

3. Rear camber setting

Usually the rear is not adjustable.

3.1 There is a big difference between left and right. There could be some damage.

If you want to sort this out, you will need to take it to a suspension repair place.

Or

There is one autoquip branch that does this (they used to be co located with a suspension repair place). I do not remember where it is located (perhaps try the fourways branch).

Your cheapest option is a fast cam bolt to set rear camber.


What model year is your S4?

Toyo premium tyres are comparable to other premium tyres(i.e good)
 

Beachless

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Yeah I figure the primary logic is that over inflation isn't as big a concern as one would think and you need to REALLY over do it to get the results shown in those pictures.

Whereas even the slightest under inflation will eat away the edges and also put extra stress on the sidewalls.

Add to that I think many manufacturers see tyres as part of the suspension system and advise softer figures to make the car run more comfortably and you can't go wrong over inflating rather than under inflating.

Not to mention lower rolling resistance and all that.


My logic with regards to the tubed tyres was simply that a tube would push out a bubble if over inflated and therefore push out the actual tyre. Overinflating a rim sealed tyre doesn't quite have the same result.


At the end of the day it's probably much like the Nitrogen thing which actually has no real world effects unless in extremely special conditions.

I would think it has more to do with the steel belts tire manufacturers started using rather than dropping the tubes but you will still get uneven wear if you over inflate them and the sidewall wear on under inflated tires is most certainly still an issue
 

Sinbad

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But rear toe did.

Left was high, but in spec. Now it's higher and out of spec :/

Total toe is what counts, not so much the individual sides. Big toe numbers mean the tyres drag each other sideways.
 

silver6933

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That alignment place :whistling:

I usually ask the guys to get the setting in the middle of the range.

If you put the car back on the same rig, the toe setting and camber will be slightly different. (percentage errors).

Did he adjusted the rear toe?

The S4 is a nice car, you should look at taking it back and asking nicely to have the values set in the middle of the ranges and balanced left to right. Explain that you have had significant tyre wear. Front camber set less than one negative will give you less front end bite but better tire longevity.

Or you could look for a more specialized tyre alignment joint?

I highly recommend everyone get a tire pressure gauge and a small air compressor for the car.

I also have a tire thread depth gauge. I use it often to detect abnormal wear.

Scoobs can eat tyres in less than 10 000km (if you have a bad setting)
 

Rusty0

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Is your car lowered?
With coilovers it wears on the inside due to camber.
 
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