Watercoling advice

[Charly]

Hi guys, I want to build a water cooling loop in my PC and I just have a few questions. I'd appreciate it if you helped me out:

1. Is there any difference (besides looks) between tube reservoirs and 5.25" bay reservoirs? I really like the look of the tube radiators.
2. Is it fine if the VRMs and VRAM of the GPU are only cooled with passive heatsinks because I'll be using a universal GPU mount?
3. Will this pump/reservoir have enough capacity for my loop? I want to use that pump because I can imagine that it'll be quiet because it's submerged. I want to use it in conjunction with a tube reservoir but it looks like the tube will just push me over my budget a bit so I'll get it next year.
4. Will a 240mm and a 120mm radiator be enough for a CPU and GPU?
5. Would this setup be fine? Res/pump -> cpu -> radiator(240mm) -> GPU -> radiator #2(120mm) -> res
6. What is the difference between the R1,379.00 and the R699.00 240mm radiator? Is it safe to use the cheapest one and if I use the most expensive one would I not need the extra 120mm radiator?
7. Where would it be suggested that I place the res/pump combo in relation to all the other parts until I get a tube reservoir?
8. Any tips when planning/building/maintaining the loop?
   
   EDIT:
9. Will distilled water and a silver coil have a negative impact on the cooling components?

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

 

[5plus2equals9]

1. Functionally, the two are identical.

2.In most cases it should be fine, they might get quite hot under heavy loads though. I prefer to have a full cover water block.

3.The capacity of the reservoir will not have an impact on cooling performance. Generally, the larger the reservoir, the easier it is to fill and bleed the loop.

4.This depends on a few factors: how hot your components run (their TDP), the extent to which you'll be over-clocking (if at all), the noise levels (and corresponding load temperatures) you're comfortable with.The more radiators you have, the quieter your loop will be. A 240mm + 120mm rad set up should be fine (assuming a single GPU + CPU rig with a mild overclock).

5.Loop order will not impact cooling performance. The temperature of your coolant will always equalise throughout your loop.

6. The AX series is thicker and has a higher FPI, and will thus offer greater cooling performance. Using the more expensive rad wouldn't eliminate the need for the 120mm.

7.If you're using the combo, then the placement doesn't really matter. If you were using a discrete pump and reservoir, then it would be important to mount the reservoir at a higher level than the pump, so the pump never runs dry.

8.Google/YouTube. Way too many to mention them all here. Very important to consider galvanic corrosion.

9. No, the kill coil just serves as a biocide. Distilled water is non-conductive, so your components shouldn't corrode, provided you drain and refill the loop often enough (this is because the distilled water will become conductive after running through your loop for a while).

 

[Archer]

Pretty much what was said above
I'll add that the pump may be submerged, but it is still attached to the reservoir, so that may still vibrate and be noisy. Also passive heatsinks on GPU VRAM/VRM is just fine, though of course it will limit your OC potential

And tube vs bay - the only real difference is that using tube reservoirs means your loop is generally easier to bleed.

 

[Charly]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input.

[Snip]

2: I have a 660ti and I'm pretty sure it isn't reference so I'll have to use a universal water block but it's fine because I'll probably upgrade it soon anyways. Maybe I'd be able to put this on the card?

Could you please indicate everywhere that I'll need to cool with heatsinks on the PCB? Thanks.

Pretty much what was said above
I'll add that the pump may be submerged, but it is still attached to the reservoir, so that may still vibrate and be noisy. Also passive heatsinks on GPU VRAM/VRM is just fine, though of course it will limit your OC potential

And tube vs bay - the only real difference is that using tube reservoirs means your loop is generally easier to bleed.

Wouldn't my rads be the first bottleneck before the heatsinks on the GPU? I'll see what people say about the noise level of that pump but it doesn't seem to be a very widely used pump.

1. What would you guys suggest using to control the speed of the fans on the radiator? Would this or this work? Or would you guys just suggest a manual control? Can the temperature probes go in the reservoir?
2. What fans would you guys suggest? I'm looking at either the SP120 quiet edition or performance edition. The quiet edition only has 1.46mm/H20 and apparently you should have at least 2mm/H20. The performance has a static pressure of 3.1 mm/H20 but they're quite a lot bit more expensive and also louder. Would you guys think I'll need any extension cables for the fans or anything? The 120mm rad will be at the back of the case.

 

[ponder]

2: I have a 660ti

Why are you spending money on water cooling a 660ti?

Flog it & get a better gpu rather. Unless you are running top end components like a 980ti, titan x I honestly can't see how one can justify the expense of water cooling something like a 660 gfx card. It sounds like you are ready to drop thousands of rands on cooling where that money could actually buy you much better hardware that would give a notable performance boost.

 

[AthenianOwl]

Dafaq :wtf:

Why are you spending money on water cooling a 660ti?

Flog it & get a better gpu rather. Unless you are running top end components like a 980ti, titan x I honestly can't see how one can justify the expense of water cooling something like a 660 gfx card. It sounds like you are ready to drop thousands of rands on cooling where that money could actually buy you much better hardware that would give a notable performance boost.

This!

 

[Charly]

I've been wanting to do it for a while now and my rig handles all the games I play on max settings. If I need to upgrade any component I'll do it in a year or so but my rig is perfect for now.

 

[ponder]

I've been wanting to do it for a while now and my rig handles all the games I play on max settings. If I need to upgrade any component I'll do it in a year or so but my rig is perfect for now.

Sorry but it makes zero sense, at the end of the day it's your money though.

 

[Charly]

Sorry but it makes zero sense, at the end of the day it's your money though.

Yeah. I'm not really a hardcore gamer so it's more for the aesthetic appeal. If my rig stops being able to handle all the games I play at full settings then I'll save up and upgrade.

 

[Noah]

Sorry but it makes zero sense, at the end of the day it's your money though.

Watercooling can also be aesthetic. Like mine, there is no need for it but it does look dank af.

 

[Arthur]

Liquid cooling is, er, cool.

I used to import and sell high-end cooling systems and accessories in the Socket 479 and LG 775 days when it was really needed, especially by overclockers. In those days the preferred kits were by Asetek, Innovatek, Cobra, Koolance and Swiftech.

I even sold a few dozen phase-change extreme cooling units, the Asetek VapoChill and nVentiv Prometeia Mach II. They chilled a CPU down to -43 degrees C. Yes, minus forty three degrees Celsius.

OP, make sure you use de-ionised water, and change it regularly. Galvanic corrosion is a big enemy of liquid cooling systems, especially if your cooling blocks have exposed copper. I used to do a roaring trade in specialised cooling fluids, with some large local manufacturers also buying it in quantity for special machine processes.

Bonus fun fact: Most people think water conducts electricity. Not true, strictly speaking. It's the minerals and impurities in common tap water that do the conducting. Pure water is a non-conductor.

 

[Archer]

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input.

2: I have a 660ti and I'm pretty sure it isn't reference so I'll have to use a universal water block but it's fine because I'll probably upgrade it soon anyways. Maybe I'd be able to put this on the card?

Could you please indicate everywhere that I'll need to cool with heatsinks on the PCB? Thanks.

Wouldn't my rads be the first bottleneck before the heatsinks on the GPU? I'll see what people say about the noise level of that pump but it doesn't seem to be a very widely used pump.

1. What would you guys suggest using to control the speed of the fans on the radiator? Would this or this work? Or would you guys just suggest a manual control? Can the temperature probes go in the reservoir?
2. What fans would you guys suggest? I'm looking at either the SP120 quiet edition or performance edition. The quiet edition only has 1.46mm/H20 and apparently you should have at least 2mm/H20. The performance has a static pressure of 3.1 mm/H20 but they're quite a lot bit more expensive and also louder. Would you guys think I'll need any extension cables for the fans or anything? The 120mm rad will be at the back of the case.

Your rads will give plenty of cooling, dependant on the amount of air you're willing to push through (ie more noise). So the air heatsinks on VRM/RAM will still be the first to get hot.

As for fan control does your motherboard have fan headers that can be controlled? If so, cheapest and best solution in my opinion since you should be able to tie it to CPU temps so it can be quiet when you're doing nothing, and 'noisy' when you're taxing the system. It is also nice to have a pump with PWM so that you can hook it up to the CPU fan header, so if the pump dies the motherboard can do a shutdown for you.

Fans are another thread all on their own But I don't think you can go wrong with the SP120's - iirc they have very good performance. But otherwise look for the highest static pressure you can

edit: will try mark up where to place heatsinks later, but what you can try look for is an instruction manual of a full cover block - they'll show you where you need to put thermal pads and that is where you'll want your heatsinks

 

[Archer]

OP, make sure you use de-ionised water, and change it regularly. Galvanic corrosion is a big enemy of liquid cooling systems, especially if your cooling blocks have exposed copper.

No... Typically these days you have 2 metals in a loop - copper and brass, but since the voltage difference in the anodic index is less than 0.15V for these two, there really is no issue.

 

[Arthur]

No... Typically these days you have 2 metals in a loop - copper and brass, but since the voltage difference in the anodic index is less than 0.15V for these two, there really is no issue.

You forget the radiator. Almost all are aluminium.

I agree copper and brass blocks aren't an issue - they're in the same cathodic end. But Al is near the top of the anodic scale:

Table 24-1. Galvanic series of metals and alloys
Courtesy of International Nickel Company, Inc.

CORRODED END
(anodic, or least noble)
Magnesium
Magnesium alloys
Zinc
Aluminum 2S
Cadmium
Aluminum 17ST
Steel or Iron
Cast Iron
Chromium-iron (active)
Ni-Resist
18-8-Cr-Ni-Fe (active)
18-8-3-Cr-Ni-Mo-Fe (active)
Hastelloy C
Lead-tin Solders
Lead
Tin
Nickel (active)
Inconel (active)
Hastelloy A
Hastelloy B
Brasses
Copper
Bronzes
Copper-nickel alloys
Titanium
Monel
Silver Solder
Nickel (passive)
Inconel (passive)
Chromium-iron (passive)
18-8-Cr-Ni-Fe (passive)
18-8-3-Cr-Ni-Mo-Fe (passive)
Silver
Graphite
PROTECTED END
(cathodic, or most noble)

 

[Archer]

You forget the radiator. Almost all are aluminium. :

Almost no radiators are aluminium in the PC world. 10+ years ago sure, but not today. Today they generally have brass chambers and copper fins, some copper throughout

edit: seems like Koolance is one of the few that still have aluminium rads

 

[Arthur]

Almost no radiators are aluminium in the PC world. 10+ years ago sure, but not today. Today they generally have brass chambers and copper fins, some copper throughout

Really? Now that's new to me - I have been out of extreme cooling since 2007. Thanks.

 

[Archer]

Really? Now that's new to me - I have been out of extreme cooling since 2007. Thanks.

I gathered as much after you referenced LGA775