Why RAW?

koffiejunkie

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For all those who wonder, here is one example. I was in a blues bar in Memphis. Not particularly well lit, but the there was an abundance of red light. This shot looks so bad, I almost delted it. Red channel is entirely blown out in the jpg:

IMG_3019.jpg


But I gave it a minute's love in Aperture:

IMG_3019_processed.jpg


It's somewhat underexposed now, and it needs more work. but still, I managed to get the colours pretty close to what they should be without destroying the image.
 

ldmelsa

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Yes, those damn florescent lights (or whatever light in this case) are the limit. Not very easy. RAW can help out here because you can set your WB in post. RAW has its uses.
 

ToxicBunny

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Yup...

Though in a way and with a bit of work that first shot could actually turn out quite interesting I think.... be all "arty farty" :p
 

bwana

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After chewing up 130gb of drive space over the Easter weekend I've switched my 7D to mRAW (unless I really need those extra MP).
 

bwana

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I think I've finally tracked down the source of the problem I was experiencing (fringing) and that is the glass I was using at the time (50mm f/1.4) rather than the mraw format.
 

koffiejunkie

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I think I've finally tracked down the source of the problem I was experiencing (fringing) and that is the glass I was using at the time (50mm f/1.4) rather than the mraw format.

Oh? I was going to buy this lens some time :erm:
 

koffiejunkie

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I guess there's always the sigma if you dont like the Canon.

There is, and I'm giving it some serious consideration. But then, there are other lenses I want to get first. And one of my two major complaints about the 50mm f/1.8 II, lack of rounded aperture blades, is because I like to shoot stopped down a bit - I like having a background that isn't blurred into irrelevance. And for that I have the 24-105L now :)
 

bwana

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There is, and I'm giving it some serious consideration. But then, there are other lenses I want to get first. And one of my two major complaints about the 50mm f/1.8 II, lack of rounded aperture blades, is because I like to shoot stopped down a bit - I like having a background that isn't blurred into irrelevance. And for that I have the 24-105L now :)
At f4 you dont have as much of an option anyway. :)
LOL, I know the feeling.
I shot a little more than 500 mRAW shots yesterday during the IronMan and it saved me a fortune in HDD space. :) It gives me roughly the same resolution as my 1D and that's good enough for me.
 

koffiejunkie

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I'm still confused. I thought fringing was similar to CA - i.e. a result of light breaking between the elements. I'm not aware that a hood will do anything about either.

That said, let us know. It would be interesting to see comparative shots. I got a hood for my 50mm f/1.8 II too, but really just to use it for some landscape and avoid flare.
 

bwana

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I'm still confused. I thought fringing was similar to CA - i.e. a result of light breaking between the elements. I'm not aware that a hood will do anything about either.

That said, let us know. It would be interesting to see comparative shots. I got a hood for my 50mm f/1.8 II too, but really just to use it for some landscape and avoid flare.
Some fringing is caused by flaring. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_aberration#Photography
 

koffiejunkie

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So I've done some more gig shooting in appaling light. I didn't actually mean to have my camera with me - couldn't get any answer from the organisers indicating that I wouldn't be hassled, and in this case I was far more interested in seeing this singer perform. Nevertheless, I was a bit far, the 50mm was no good, so I had the 24-105L at 105mm all the time, and the lighting was absolutely atrocious. There were heavy lights on the stage at the left and right ends, both rotating between heavy reds, magentas and blues. There were more lights on either side just in front of the stage. These were mostly tungsten, not very strong at all, but also rotated with the aforementioned heavy coloured lights. No light directly in front.

The net result was the girl's face was lit from either side, and shadowed down the middle, and if she moved out from directly behind the microphone, she would have this big microphone shaped shadow across her face. Which looks a lot worse on the pictures than it does in real life. The coloured lights easily flooded the tungsten completely.

Consider this shot:



Click the image for the full size version. Aside from cropping it down to the relevant section, it is unmodified. See the way the magenta looks blown out? But the histogram doesn't show this:

histogram.jpg


Also, some spots don't seem to have any colour on, like the bit on her hair. So it seems that the camera reaches a threshold, where there's too much of one colour and it overloads, so to speak.

How do you guys handle this? I can't seem to figure out a way to deal with this in post. Playing with the colour levels just makes matters worse. Would coloured filters (like, the real glass ones) help?

I don't want to take the colour out completely - it's part of the amosphere. But it would be good if it doesn't look like I took to it with purple paint.
 

bwana

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From the look of the mike head it looks like you just so happened to take the shot when the (blue) coloured spots were hitting her from either side.
 
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BigAl-sa

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I've fixed a pic like this before, and I don't think anything is blown out (as suggested by the histogram). I can't remember whether PS has colour balance, as that would be the way I'd go first. I'll give it a bash tomorrow morning (busy making supper at the mo), otherwise just try a simple white balance on the string pins on the guitar.
 
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