3d Printers South Africa

valiente said:
Nice!!

What's the size? And ETA
Click to expand...
1.5m x 1.5m frame, not sure what actual cutting area is. Kit from neotronics za, so should hopefully be together by Wednesday as I'm not ordering a bunch of components myself like it happened with the large custom 3d printer build that still isn't finished 2 years later :X3: .
 
Hmmm...I wonder how much of a mission it would be to convert this to a 3d printer :unsure:. Don't need a load of Z travel for printing bulk small parts...
 
So I eventually found a local company that can supply 4mm Polycarbonate sheets (580 x 600) for my new Printer.
Reasonable price! R350


Then I asked them to CNC a couple holes and two small corner cut-outs.
Firstly the quote from Engineering took nearly 5 days.

Then the price was double that of the sheet, almost R700 for the CNC alone.
Image of the DXF in question below

So I am looking for someone to assist in Gauteng (Pretoria preferred) with a CNC large enough to drill these couple of holes..

1631032716775.png
 
Folks, I'm keen into getting a Octoprint but I see DIYElec sells it but are out of stock, any other local suppliers? I suppose could build my own but like that it was a whole kit.
 
Kosmik said:
Folks, I'm keen into getting a Octoprint but I see DIYElec sells it but are out of stock, any other local suppliers? I suppose could build my own but like that it was a whole kit.
Click to expand...
I did this for my ender 6. I used a Sony eyecam for the PS3 and a raspberry PI 3b. Installing Octopi is easy and getting everything setup is well documented.

The biggest issue I had was getting the camera to work, but in the end it was more of a PICNIC issue than anything else. The camera is not great but works great.
 
Kosmik said:
Folks, I'm keen into getting a Octoprint but I see DIYElec sells it but are out of stock, any other local suppliers? I suppose could build my own but like that it was a whole kit.
Click to expand...
Yeah no need to buy the Bundle, just self source.

Image loading onto an SD card is super simple with Balena Etcher
 
I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?
 
Kosmik said:
I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?
Click to expand...
If you simply want to remotely control your printer:
Pi Zero W

If you want to Remotely control and stream cameras:
Pi 3 B

If you want to go Balls to the Wall, Stream, Time lapses, AI Learning and run a few dozen extensions:
Pi 4 B
 
Kosmik said:
I read some folks in the thread complaining about the speed and print issues, recommended hardware version of pi?
Click to expand...

Most of the issues are plugin related. I'm using a old Pi3 I repurposed with no issues for months now.

RE: Plugins - I've disabled two recently (WLED/PSU Control) - it seems as soon as Octoprint can't contact them over the network - **** hits the fan with printing.
 
Wont do this one again, multiple parts failed multiple parts, with varying degrees of supports. Not sure how its done without supports.

Came out VERY rough at 0.2mm.
b2c01ef90541b5b956dad02d586952a1.jpg
 
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
 
Thor said:
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
Click to expand...
For a beginner, I'd definitely recommend the Ender 3 v2.
  • Extremely well documented - Probably the most used Printer (Ender 3)
  • A billion add-ons and Improvements you can play around with
  • Super easy to troubleshoot
  • Can print very good quality if tuned correctly

Both the Ender 6 and CR-5 Pro are Core XY Printers.
The Creality implementation isn't great with the bed only supported on a single side
Over time and if printing something heavy, the bed could start sagging downwards since it is only supported from one side
There are fixes for this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397666

In theory, the Core XY printers can print a LOT faster, since you not moving the heavy bed in the X or Y direction.
But again, for a beginner, speed is the last thing you should be concerned about.


Also Price, all three these printers are in different Price Categories:
R5999 for Ender 3 V2
R9999 for Ender 6
Can't find local price on Ender-5 Pro H but probably R20 000
 
Thor said:
Should I get the creality

Ender 3 v2

Or

Ender 6

Or

CR-5 Pro H

I am leaning very heavily towards the CR-5 Pro H thinking being if I actually do end up liking 3D printing for all my IoT stuff then I'm going to wish I had a proper printer.
Click to expand...
I absolutely love my ender 6. I think the Ender 3 is a great start because there is a massive amount of info and guides online
 
Gents, could someone give a quick explanation on nozzles? I see the ender 3 has out the box 0.4mm, and DIY has 0.3, 0.25 respectably at a various ranges for sale. My current understanding is that the nozzle could be deemed similar to the resolution aspect of a print? My question is, when and where to use and secondly, doesn't the smaller apertute impact the flow rate? Would that not need to be adjusted/set?

Also with the price range in nozzles from R20odd to R600, the main differance I see is coatings and durability, does this genuinely make such a huge differance? The jumps are from like R20 to R200 to R600?
 
Kosmik said:
Gents, could someone give a quick explanation on nozzles? I see the ender 3 has out the box 0.4mm, and DIY has 0.3, 0.25 respectably at a various ranges for sale. My current understanding is that the nozzle could be deemed similar to the resolution aspect of a print? My question is, when and where to use and secondly, doesn't the smaller apertute impact the flow rate? Would that not need to be adjusted/set?

Also with the price range in nozzles from R20odd to R600, the main differance I see is coatings and durability, does this genuinely make such a huge differance? The jumps are from like R20 to R200 to R600?
Click to expand...
Not really on the resolution thing imo. The layer height is more resolution related, with 0.1mm being finer than 0.2mm etc.

Smaller nozzle sizes theoretically allow smaller detailed prints to be done. I tried a 0.2mm nozzle as wanted to print some small detailed items, endless issues; clogging mostly using PLA. Went back to 0.4mm and tuned my printer and slicer settings properly, no issues. Not ideal for small items though.

And for small detailed items, rather go resin. Works much better.

Can't comment on the pricing. A big standard nozzle is fine, cheap to replace. Steel nozzles also have issues, depending on your printer calibration.
Dumped the Micro Swiss nozzles and back to cheap brass ones.
 
Wanted to add that if the nozzle size is changed, flow and e-steps may have to be recalibrated.

Tried a 0.8mm nozzle as well and had to do this (and bump up the nozzle temp during the print)
 
Hmmm looking at the whole octoprint thing and I really like what this chap did

This timestamp =>

I note he didn't use a connected pi cam so my question to those folks who have octo, I assume can slap a cheap usb webcam on the side? Would it support a smart cam like a sonoff? ie: does it need to be a direct connection or can it be linked? What did you folks use if you went with this? The cable cam or an external?

Some really cool mod ideas and easy prints.
 
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