5w40 in an old engine

zeddee

zeddee

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Hi,I currently have a 4afe that has 300 000km, it is being rebuilt at the moment.After the break in process,I want to use a thinner oil since most of the engine will be brand new...the 4afe manual recommends 20w50 but I've been using Petromin 10w40(unheard brand,but the only fully synthetic 10w40 around, works wonders)
Do I still use 10w40 after the rebuild or can I use a thinner oil such as 5w40?
 
I’d stick to 10W40, after the run in process.

Toyota likes Castrol, but I’m not the biggest fan. I use Shell Helix in all my vehicles, bar the cabriolet which gets high performance German oil.
 
zeddee said:
Hi,I currently have a 4afe that has 300 000km, it is being rebuilt at the moment.After the break in process,I want to use a thinner oil since most of the engine will be brand new...the 4afe manual recommends 20w50 but I've been using Petromin 10w40(unheard brand,but the only fully synthetic 10w40 around, works wonders)
Do I still use 10w40 after the rebuild or can I use a thinner oil such as 5w40?
Click to expand...

The 200,000+ km thread

New owner picks up the car today, and i can't even be there to say bye :cry: though i might get a chance on the weekend if the new owner comes so i can help him fit a new radio. 544186km Still looks pretty good, how much did you get for her?
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za

Go have a look at this thread.
I had as Hyundai Accent 1999 model with a 1.3L carburettor engine.
When I bought it at 90k km the previous owner said to use 5w40 fully synthetic, and so I did.

Later on I learned about cars and still continued to use it. Briefly I used high mileage 20w65 I think until I got valve stem seals replaced then went back to 5w40.

Sold the car with 545k km on the clock, only ever opened for those valve stem seals.
 
Nicholas Lisse said:
I’d stick to 10W40, after the run in process.

Toyota likes Castrol, but I’m not the biggest fan. I use Shell Helix in all my vehicles, bar the cabriolet which gets high performance German oil.
Click to expand...
Castrol is overrated in my opinion.I wanted to use 5w40 since you get better quality fully synthetics compared to 10w40 where the only fully synthetic is Petromin...Guess I'll just stick to the Petromin
 
Zuner said:

The 200,000+ km thread

New owner picks up the car today, and i can't even be there to say bye :cry: though i might get a chance on the weekend if the new owner comes so i can help him fit a new radio. 544186km Still looks pretty good, how much did you get for her?
mybroadband.co.za mybroadband.co.za

Go have a look at this thread.
I had as Hyundai Accent 1999 model with a 1.3L carburettor engine.
When I bought it at 90k km the previous owner said to use 5w40 fully synthetic, and so I did.

Later on I learned about cars and still continued to use it. Briefly I used high mileage 20w65 I think until I got valve stem seals replaced then went back to 5w40.

Sold the car with 545k km on the clock, only ever opened for those valve stem seals.
Click to expand...
so basically the 5w40 worked with no issue on a high mileage engine?
 
zeddee said:
Castrol is overrated in my opinion.I wanted to use 5w40 since you get better quality fully synthetics compared to 10w40 where the only fully synthetic is Petromin...Guess I'll just stick to the Petromin
Click to expand...
I mean 5W40 won’t hurt anything. As long as it meets the Toyota criteria, it shouldn’t really matter.
 
Nicholas Lisse said:
I mean 5W40 won’t hurt anything. As long as it meets the Toyota criteria, it shouldn’t really matter.
Click to expand...
what do you mean by Toyota criteria?
new Toyota's use 15w40 out of the factory...yes 15w40... quite weird actually
 
zeddee said:
what do you mean by Toyota criteria?
new Toyota's use 15w40 out of the factory...yes 15w40... quite weird actually
Click to expand...

I’m not necessarily speaking of viscosity, more about manufacturer approvals. Manufacturers set specific criteria that motor oils need, to work with their engines. This relates to additive packs and certain friction modifiers within the oils that may (or may not) cause issue. If you look at the back of an oil bottle, you’ll see the manufacturer specs the oil complies with.

look at the (terrible) picture below. If you zoom in on the box at the bottom, it will show you the manufacturer approvals. I’m not sure if Toyota has anything like that, but I know VW, Merc and Renault, Jaguar/Land Rover do. As does GM (Dexos) and Ford.

Generally speaking though, as long as the oil you use meets ACEA A3/A4 (for gas motor) or ACEA B3/B4 (for Diesel motors) specifications, it should be okay.

Traditionally, 15Wxx or 20Wxx were mineral oils, 10Wxx was semi-synthetic and 5W or 0W were full Synthetics. These days that rule doesn’t really apply anymore. I use Shell 15W40 in my V8 Land Rover and 10W40 in my Duster, both semi-synthetic without any issues. On my Saab I run with Ravenol 5W40, but I’d also happily run the same 10W40 as my Duster.
 

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Nicholas Lisse said:
I’m not necessarily speaking of viscosity, more about manufacturer approvals. Manufacturers set specific criteria that motor oils need, to work with their engines. This relates to additive packs and certain friction modifiers within the oils that may (or may not) cause issue. If you look at the back of an oil bottle, you’ll see the manufacturer specs the oil complies with.

look at the (terrible) picture below. If you zoom in on the box at the bottom, it will show you the manufacturer approvals. I’m not sure if Toyota has anything like that, but I know VW, Merc and Renault, Jaguar/Land Rover do. As does GM (Dexos) and Ford.

Generally speaking though, as long as the oil you use meets ACEA A3/A4 (for gas motor) or ACEA B3/B4 (for Diesel motors) specifications, it should be okay.

Traditionally, 15Wxx or 20Wxx were mineral oils, 10Wxx was semi-synthetic and 5W or 0W were full Synthetics. These days that rule doesn’t really apply anymore. I use Shell 15W40 in my V8 Land Rover and 10W40 in my Duster, both semi-synthetic without any issues. On my Saab I run with Ravenol 5W40, but I’d also happily run the same 10W40 as my Duster.
Click to expand...
yep I figured what you mean...just haven't seen a Toyota approval on an oil..just the usual API and the rating for petrol and diesel etc
 
Nicholas Lisse said:
I’d stick to 10W40, after the run in process.

Toyota likes Castrol, but I’m not the biggest fan. I use Shell Helix in all my vehicles, bar the cabriolet which gets high performance German oil.
Click to expand...
The factory recommended oil is now Total for Toyota
 
Which engine oil to use for Corolla 1.8 Petrol 10th Gen (Engine 2ZRU201118)?

I'm not sure what this means from the car manual:
1764053562059.png
 
zeddee said:
Hi,I currently have a 4afe that has 300 000km, it is being rebuilt at the moment.After the break in process,I want to use a thinner oil since most of the engine will be brand new...the 4afe manual recommends 20w50 but I've been using Petromin 10w40(unheard brand,but the only fully synthetic 10w40 around, works wonders)
Do I still use 10w40 after the rebuild or can I use a thinner oil such as 5w40?
Click to expand...

5W40 is only 'thinner' at 0 Deg C versus 10W40, at operating temperature they are both the same viscosity so there will be zero difference assuming no other differences between the oils other than viscosity. Personally, I stick to manufacturer recommended oil specifications, even in my older cars...

Edit: Bugger! I see this is a thread necro,
 
SHL said:
Which engine oil to use for Corolla 1.8 Petrol 10th Gen (Engine 2ZRU201118)?

I'm not sure what this means from the car manual:
View attachment 1866146
Click to expand...
As is says you can either use the 20W50 or 15W40 as well as all the others mentioned, if you look at the manual you should find a page where it specifies what oil to use based on your location's climate.

I would use the 15W40.
 
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