All things Sunsynk (Deye, Inge, etc...)

RonSwanson said:
Yep, goto System mode, tick zero export.

View attachment 1550543
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Awesome, this worked. Thanks. Now to figure out how to use as much battery as possible and little grid as possible.
ab22 said:
May be your CT coil installed the wrong way?

Try tick limit to load only and see if it corrects itself.
Click to expand...

No, issue was as per Ron's post. All good now. Thanks
Moereloos said:
Looks like a Sunsynk system.
Change your settings as below
View attachment 1550555
Click to expand...

Thanks, done. All working now.
 
I've just been double checking that I have everything in order for when my third battery gets installed next month and sent off a mail to the installer asking about the fusing which I think needs upgrading but nothing was reflected on the quote.

Then I was going through the battery install manual and noticed that my system isn't wired according to how the manual specifies it should be done. I guess it's not wrong but I suspect it will have to be changed when the third battery is added.

This is how my 2 current batteries are connected:

1688652840067.png

This is how the manual shows how the multiple batteries should be connected:

1688652887190.png

This way looks a lot more practical when having more than 2 batteries.

Also I currently have 2 x 160A fuses for the batteries, would this suffice for 3 batteries (each battery is max 100A) or should these fuses be bumped up slightly?
 
I'm not an electrician but I think the wiring is still fine, the manual is showing the method that saves cabling by connecting the batteries together and then only have the postive of one battery and negative of the other battery go to the inverter. Your installation achieves the same thing but then the 3rd battery would need to be done the same probably. My electrician does not like putting multiple lugs on a connection and insisted it should be done via a busbar, but whether that is code or just him being full of nonsense I don't know.

Additionally, those batteries are rated 50A charge/discharge continous I believe, so I would guess you would not want to allow it to go above that.

Connected in parallel you are looking at 50A x2 continous and 3 batteries 50A x 3 continous.

However my understanding is at 120A you would need 35mm2 cabling and at 150A you would 50mm2 thick cable, not sure what cabling you have but maybe 25mm2?

Personally I have 3x batteries but have limited discharge to 130A (+- 43A each) and 35mm2 cabling.
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
I've just been double checking that I have everything in order for when my third battery gets installed next month and sent off a mail to the installer asking about the fusing which I think needs upgrading but nothing was reflected on the quote.

Then I was going through the battery install manual and noticed that my system isn't wired according to how the manual specifies it should be done. I guess it's not wrong but I suspect it will have to be changed when the third battery is added.

This is how my 2 current batteries are connected:

View attachment 1552477

This is how the manual shows how the multiple batteries should be connected:

View attachment 1552479

This way looks a lot more practical when having more than 2 batteries.

Also I currently have 2 x 160A fuses for the batteries, would this suffice for 3 batteries (each battery is max 100A) or should these fuses be bumped up slightly?
Click to expand...

The way yours is wired is technically better than the manual as you have equal length wiring to each battery. When you add the third battery that won't be the case anymore though as you will need longer wiring to it.

There are a couple of ways to redo the wiring but of course you will then need to replace the quite pricey cables. You can also just live with the one battery having slightly higher resistance on the cabling or add thicker cable etc.

As for the fuses you need to look at the max current the inverter will draw and charge at. The battery max current rating doesn't matter.
 
Hi guys,

For those mad scientists based in Joburg - did you guys see this article https://www.moneyweb.co.za/moneyweb...ts-to-buy-excess-electricity-from-households/

It talks about the fact that CoJ "may" buy excess solar and that they will install the new bi-directional meter for free (will wait to see if this is true...).

But they speak about a voluntary registration of solar installations - does anyone know what this is?
 
Anyone have experience registering the warranty on Sunsynk? Inverter and batteries for 10yrs.
I have separate suppliers and installers.
Returned my Shoto batteries for the Sunsynk ones, spoiling myself but sacrificed 2 panels
 
Anybody been moved from Region 1 to region 2 on SunSynk Connect yet? I was moved late yesterday or early today, lost all my history but am not sure if it will be moved at a later stage.
 
Neuk_ said:
Anybody been moved from Region 1 to region 2 on SunSynk Connect yet? I was moved late yesterday or early today, lost all my history but am not sure if it will be moved at a later stage.
Click to expand...
Do you get any notification that it's happening? Mine still looks unchanged.
 
feo said:
How do you see what region you're on?

And what's the difference between the 2 regions?
Click to expand...

Some information from SunSynk...

www.sunsynk.org

Sunsynk Connect Data Migration

Dear Customers, We have now completed phase 2 of 3 of the migration to the new data centre in London, United Kingdom. From here on, any new users that register on Sunsynk Connect will be registered in “Region 2” and will not be able to connect to any plants in “Region 1”. We ask all installers...
www.sunsynk.org www.sunsynk.org
 
DrJohnZoidberg said:
Do you get any notification that it's happening? Mine still looks unchanged.
Click to expand...
Have not yet captured anything..
Install not yet done but installers making me nervous when they say things like "The warranty for the equipment sits with you".
Haha, guess that is fair when you source your own equipment.
 
It seems like the standard voltage setting on the 12kW 3ph Sunsynk is 220V/380V. I believe SA standard is 230V/400V. My grid voltage is around 235V per phase.

What have you guys setting your output voltage to?
 
Tradezzz said:
Have not yet captured anything..
Install not yet done but installers making me nervous when they say things like "The warranty for the equipment sits with you".
Haha, guess that is fair when you source your own equipment.
Click to expand...
As far as I understand, suppliers also request the CoC before they honour warranty claims.
 
Hi all I need a little bit of help this morning, my Deye 8kw inverter is displaying error F56 on the console, but we had a bit of an issue in our suburb, the grid went of at about 6pm on Saturday and is still off, the batteries went down to zero during the night, and this morning started charging again and is back up to 5% at the moment.
What do I do to get rid of the F56 error?
 
walterl said:
Hi all I need a little bit of help this morning, my Deye 8kw inverter is displaying error F56 on the console, but we had a bit of an issue in our suburb, the grid went of at about 6pm on Saturday and is still off, the batteries went down to zero during the night, and this morning started charging again and is back up to 5% at the moment.
What do I do to get rid of the F56 error?
Click to expand...

What is the startup voltage set to and what is the battery at?
 
The battery minimum is set to 30% so it's possible that I just have to wait for it to reach 30% for the error to go away, currently it's at 8%
 
Yip, best is to wait for it to hit 30% before you start worrying.
 
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