beginner bike

[the_don46]

No dude. I'm all for superbikes but as a commuter, rather go with a decent secondhand BMW. Remember to factor in safety gear + helmet into your budget.

CBR600 is regarded as a Superbike. If you thinking of going this route, also look at the Yamaha R6, Suzuki GSX-R 600, Kawasaki ZX-6R.

My choice would be between the Honda CBR600 or the Yamaha R6.

I'm quoting this post you made previously because you weren't interested in a superbike (hence I ommted this advice previously).

 

[crysis]

You are going to have a hard time learning how to ride on superbikes if you have never ridden before. Rather get a commuting bike, like the kawasaki er-6f or Suzuki gsx-F 650. Or if you dont want something that looks like a superbike, have a look at the suzuki DRZ400sm. Basically a modern offroad bike with road tyres on. Great handeling bike, lots of low down torque (from a 400cc water cooled, DOHC single cylinder engine)

 

[the_don46]

You are going to have a hard time learning how to ride on superbikes if you have never ridden before. Rather get a commuting bike, like the kawasaki er-6f or Suzuki gsx-F 650. Or if you dont want something that looks like a superbike, have a look at the suzuki DRZ400sm. Basically a modern offroad bike with road tyres on. Great handeling bike, lots of low down torque (from a 400cc water cooled, DOHC single cylinder engine)

I diagree if you say the best option for not going for a Superbike is the one's you listed. Then I say the Kawasaki 250cc 4-stroke Ninja Sport. Each to their own though

 

[crysis]

I diagree if you say the best option for not going for a Superbike is the one's you listed. Then I say the Kawasaki 250cc 4-stroke Ninja Sport. Each to their own though

Why? Those first 2 are commuter bikes. Detuned supersport engines. They can very easily be beginner bikes. Remember, riding position is also important. Both those bikes i mentioned have upright riding positions, which is easy for riding through town and stuff.

 

[Nocturnity]

Why? Those first 2 are commuter bikes. Detuned supersport engines. They can very easily be beginner bikes. Remember, riding position is also important. Both those bikes i mentioned have upright riding positions, which is easy for riding through town and stuff.

Nope. That's not true. The ER-6 f/n is a 650cc twin engine and the GSX650F is an inline-4. You are correct in recommending these, however.

OP: The Kawasaki ER-6 f(faired)/n(naked) are both brilliant bikes. The Suzuki GSX650F is also a great bike but it's a little heavy. Yamaha recently launched a great little bike called the FZ6R. It runs a down-tuned version of the R6 motor and the riding position is much more forgiving than the R6. The Suzuki SV650 is also a great bike, although Suzuki is retiring the model and replacing it with the Gladius, which I don't know if Suzuki SA will import.

The dark horse in the crowd, however, is the Hyosung GT650R. Previousmodels had some teething problems and dealer support was bad when they were imported by KMSA but I believe all the issues have been resolved with the 2008 and up models.

 

[the_don46]

Yes, however you are both missing the major swing vote... Price. That is why they are not good recommendation (please don't recommend Hyosung - personal opinon, to be taken lightly!)

 

[Palimino]

In general how many km's is too much

Careful about speedo readings. An abnormally low reading may indicate an accident and the speedo has been replaced.

Trial bike rather than road – potholes, torque, turning circle, rider position for commuting and it is light enough to heave onto pavements etc. for parking.

4 stroke rather than 2

More robust (& cheaper) when you drop it or have an accident. And you will (just hope it’s not fatal).

 

[LittleGSA]

Guy wants to commute between Harties and PTA, this will include some highway travels AFAIK. Twisters are out of the question IMHO, Motard types like the DRZ are great for short trips but freeway cruising is not one of their strong points.

Kawa ER-6n

/thread

+1 but I am biased as I have one haha.

You can pick up for around R40K with 15000km or less. Bike has plenty low down torque which is nice for traffic and enough poke to get you in big trouble with the cops but not manic enough to make it feel like its trying to kill you. Will outrun the 250 brigade no problem. Seating position is far better than the superbikes with regards to commuting. Light on fuel and cheaper to service than the superbikes, cheaper to insure too which is always a plus.

Any of the following will be great for what you are looking for.

Kawasaki ER6N/F
Honda CB600 Hornet (priciest of the lot)
Suzuki GSR 600 / GSX600F / SV650
Yamaha Fazer

But as mentioned, remember buying the bike is only part of the purchase, gear is expensive...

 

[Pitbull]

If you have never owned a bike of your own. Start out with an On/Off Scrambler. They go for around R10k Ride it for a few months, sell it for the same price then buy something better.

If you have lots of riding experience for that price you can pick up some nice 1000's older models. Thinking along the lines of VTR1000, R1 and so on. Newer model 600's and so on. It mainly depends on your skill set and what you are looking for in a bike.

 

[Pitbull]

My advise is not to go for a 250cc 2-stroke. Rather go for a 400cc 4-stroke (CBR / VFR / RVF / RGV / ZXR).

Then, have a look at www.kawasakisa.co.za at their 250cc 4-stroke Ninja Sport. I think it's sells for R46k new, but you can probably negotiate around R42k new.

If I needed a good quality (non grey import) bike direct from the agents for under R50k with full support, this is the bike I would choose. If you can get them down to R42k for the bike, you have more than enough left over for a proper helmet, gloves & leather jacket.

Good luck

Never buy a 250 2-stroke if you are not familiar with performance bikes rather get a 400 4-stroke instead. Those bikes are very unpredictable and will throw you off like no other bike can. Stay away from the NSR Honda range. Also the KX off roads from Kawa. THEY WILL KILL YOU.

 

[Palimino]

Trial bike rather than road – potholes, torque, turning circle, rider position for commuting and it is light enough to heave onto pavements etc. for parking.

Further advantages of a trial bike is that a wide variety of protective gear is sold.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: you can go down to a scramble track and become utterly familiar with your bike – its strong points and its limitations. You will drop it occasionally, but they are designed to be robust (it’s a trial bike) and it is not an expensive train smash to repair them (not like a road bike). If you go with like-minded friends and a braai, it can be quite a social occasion. Save the drinking till after the riding.

 

[LittleGSA]

Further advantages of a trial bike is that a wide variety of protective gear is sold.

MOST IMPORTANTLY: you can go down to a scramble track and become utterly familiar with your bike – its strong points and its limitations. You will drop it occasionally, but they are designed to be robust (it’s a trial bike) and it is not an expensive train smash to repair them (not like a road bike). If you go with like-minded friends and a braai, it can be quite a social occasion. Save the drinking till after the riding.

Wide variety of gear? If you ride on the road you ride with road gear, if you ride off road you ride with offroad gear, doesn't make a difference what bike you are on. Please do not try and think offroad gear will be good commuting gear.

I see where you are going with the 'learn on a offroad' angle but as a bike to commute longer distances, on/offs are not the way to go. If dual purpose is what you like, something like a Versys is more appropriate.

 

[Pitbull]

Wide variety of gear? If you ride on the road you ride with road gear, if you ride off road you ride with offroad gear, doesn't make a difference what bike you are on. Please do not try and think offroad gear will be good commuting gear.

I see where you are going with the 'learn on a offroad' angle but as a bike to commute longer distances, on/offs are not the way to go. If dual purpose is what you like, something like a Versys is more appropriate.

If that is your stance, and I don't disagree with it, but then he should stick to Off roads first.
That is assuming he has never had a bike of his own and he is now entering the Biking game. I fully agree though that h should start with an off road an On/Off is much better suited than a Road bike if he has no formal experience.

Let me explain.

Starting on an Off road is like starting to learn how to ride a bike. But with training wheels. 1. He WILL fall at one time or another, best to do it on the gravel at a dirt track and learning from there Think of it as learning to ride a bicycle with training wheels on it. 2. He WILL fall at some stage and with that comes repairs. Off roads hardly ever needs any repairs if you come off it at any given stage.

That all being said. I have had some hectic bike accidents in my life, mot recall the latest one (Pictures on MyBB) however the hardest (not most deadly) was on a Quad doing off-road.

Fact is, biking is serious business don't rush into it as being in a hurry and not learning the ropes in small steps at a time, can and will get you killed.

Lastly I agree with everyone who posted on here. Yes, a On/Off is not a long distance bike (It can be done) it is however allot saver to start off with. Best of all it's cheap. Every man in the world wants a bike at some stage, but it's not everyone's cup of tea. Buy a cheap bike, something you can learn on, crash if need be and it's won't break the bank when you realize you made a mistake when it's -2 in Johannesburg and raining at 5am in the morning and you need to ride to work

Get an On/Off you can buy it, ride it and after a year sell it for more or less the same amout you paid for it. You have nothing to lose.

This however is my personal point of view. Everyone has their own views but I have seen lots of people of all ages and sizes get serious road rash and also spend thousands on white elephants standing in the garage 364 days of the year Bottom line is. It's your life and you money. What ever you buy, enjoy it. And pls don't let the rain and cold scare you off

Another thing, go to the website www.thinkbike.co.za look around/join the forum ask questions there and pls remember one thing. Buy the best gear first, then take the balance and buy a bike

 

[Palimino]

Wide variety of gear? If you ride on the road you ride with road gear, if you ride off road you ride with offroad gear, doesn't make a difference what bike you are on. Please do not try and think offroad gear will be good commuting gear.

Offroad gear is designed for coming OFF the bike. Roadgear isn’t. Use your discretion about what to wear.

I see where you are going with the 'learn on a offroad' angle but as a bike to commute longer distances, on/offs are not the way to go. If dual purpose is what you like, something like a Versys is more appropriate.

I always picture ‘commute’ as being in an urban environment. A trail allows you to thread through traffic and go to the front at robot queues. Road bikes (in my experience) have a limited turning circle, crap road clearance, are heavy and the handle bars are in a crouching position. You don’t want this in a commuter.

Duel use on a trail (if you intend using it off-road as well) involves fitting intermediate tyres. Not scrambler knobblies or smooth road tyres (in-between). A bigger bike will enable you to break the speed limit although you are pushing it going above 160 kph. A bigger (heavier) bike depends on your height (your feet must touch the ground) and strength (if you have to lift it upright after it falls). If your wife or GF intends to ride it, these considerations become more important. If you want higher speeds, reduce the number of teeth on the back sprocket (change it). A motorcycle shop has a number of town riding configurations. It’s bolt-on. Ask for advice. If you ride fast on freeways for long distances, the upright riding position gives maximum wind resistance and can be fatiguing. Tailor your selection according to your needs.

 

[Nocturnity]

Guy wants to commute between Harties and PTA, this will include some highway travels AFAIK. Twisters are out of the question IMHO, Motard types like the DRZ are great for short trips but freeway cruising is not one of their strong points.



+1 but I am biased as I have one haha.

You can pick up for around R40K with 15000km or less. Bike has plenty low down torque which is nice for traffic and enough poke to get you in big trouble with the cops but not manic enough to make it feel like its trying to kill you. Will outrun the 250 brigade no problem. Seating position is far better than the superbikes with regards to commuting. Light on fuel and cheaper to service than the superbikes, cheaper to insure too which is always a plus.

Any of the following will be great for what you are looking for.

Kawasaki ER6N/F
Honda CB600 Hornet (priciest of the lot)
Suzuki GSR 600 / GSX600F / SV650
Yamaha Fazer

But as mentioned, remember buying the bike is only part of the purchase, gear is expensive...

What's your mileage like? I'm considering one of these as a commuter too. I ride the Boulevard to work at the moment and it's awesome but she gargles fuel and maintenance is incredibly steep.

 

[LittleGSA]

Offroad gear is designed for coming OFF the bike. Roadgear isn’t. Use your discretion about what to wear.

I always picture ‘commute’ as being in an urban environment. A trail allows you to thread through traffic and go to the front at robot queues. Road bikes (in my experience) have a limited turning circle, crap road clearance, are heavy and the handle bars are in a crouching position. You don’t want this in a commuter.

Duel use on a trail (if you intend using it off-road as well) involves fitting intermediate tyres. Not scrambler knobblies or smooth road tyres (in-between). A bigger bike will enable you to break the speed limit although you are pushing it going above 160 kph. A bigger (heavier) bike depends on your height (your feet must touch the ground) and strength (if you have to lift it upright after it falls). If your wife or GF intends to ride it, these considerations become more important. If you want higher speeds, reduce the number of teeth on the back sprocket (change it). A motorcycle shop has a number of town riding configurations. It’s bolt-on. Ask for advice. If you ride fast on freeways for long distances, the upright riding position gives maximum wind resistance and can be fatiguing. Tailor your selection according to your needs.

Falling on Sand vs Sliding for 100m on Tar is very different, the impact on the road during the fall is only a small portion of your concern, go see how long your mx jersey is going to last sliding on Tar.

The bikes mentioned are all fairly upright (my bars are about 20cm higher than most Superbikes) and with a small screen all do pretty well for deflecting wind, go ride one and see.

What's your mileage like? I'm considering one of these as a commuter too. I ride the Boulevard to work at the moment and it's awesome but she gargles fuel and maintenance is incredibly steep.

My last fill up was around 14 litre's and I had done around 300km's, which included a very 'spirited' breakfast run with the SO as pillion for half of that distance so should be easily improved on.

 

[Nocturnity]

My last fill up was around 14 litre's and I had done around 300km's, which included a very 'spirited' breakfast run with the SO as pillion for half of that distance so should be easily improved on.

That's pretty damn decent! Last time I filled up was 16 litres... 200km... Yeah, I need to lay off the throttle a bit but she likes barking at all the nasty cagers around me!

Hmm, do you service yours yourself and, if so, what are prices like for plugs and filters? Mine's just gone out of warranty so no need to service at the dealers, which was R1100 a pop. Plugs every 12 000km. 4 plugs at R100 each.

 

[LittleGSA]

That's pretty damn decent! Last time I filled up was 16 litres... 200km... Yeah, I need to lay off the throttle a bit but she likes barking at all the nasty cagers around me!

Hmm, do you service yours yourself and, if so, what are prices like for plugs and filters? Mine's just gone out of warranty so no need to service at the dealers, which was R1100 a pop. Plugs every 12 000km. 4 plugs at R100 each.

2 Plugs - R110 each.
Airfilter OEM - R380
oilfilter - R142
Brake pads - R500 (front)/ R280 Rear

 

[crysis]

Nope. That's not true. The ER-6 f/n is a 650cc twin engine and the GSX650F is an inline-4. You are correct in recommending these, however.

OP: The Kawasaki ER-6 f(faired)/n(naked) are both brilliant bikes. The Suzuki GSX650F is also a great bike but it's a little heavy. Yamaha recently launched a great little bike called the FZ6R. It runs a down-tuned version of the R6 motor and the riding position is much more forgiving than the R6. The Suzuki SV650 is also a great bike, although Suzuki is retiring the model and replacing it with the Gladius, which I don't know if Suzuki SA will import.

The dark horse in the crowd, however, is the Hyosung GT650R. Previousmodels had some teething problems and dealer support was bad when they were imported by KMSA but I believe all the issues have been resolved with the 2008 and up models.

Yes i forgot about the FZ6R. That was the one with the detuned supersport engine. I was too lazy to find out exactly what it was called to list it in my first post. But all three of those bikes are aimed at the same bigginer to intermediate market, so if you want something you can keep for a while and wont get bored with, then any of those 3 from yamaha, kawasaki or suzuki will do.

 

[crysis]

The hyosung isnt that bad either. It uses the same engine as the Suzuki SV650 you listed too.