Brake shudder

Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Howzit MyBB! :D

Got a problem with brakes shuddering (felt through steering wheel) when braking. It does not always happen though in that if I have not braked for a while (on highway) then apply brakes it's ok. Then I apply brakes again a few seconds later and the shudder is there. Almost as if once the brakes/discs are warm...it creates a shudder on braking.

There is also a very slight turn to the right when I apply brakes hard. Not bad...but noticable.

I'm getting my discs skimmed today, but I'm not 100% sure if it's the discs that need skimming? I know they say rather just replace the discs, as skimming is a temp solution...but this is the only choice right now due to budget. Could my pads need replacing? They are about half way used.

Anyone else had these symptoms before in their car and know what the issue is? :confused:
 
What car is it?

If they are warped then skimming is not the best thing to do.

Front brake disks and pads are pretty easy to change so if you are willing to do it yourself its pretty cheap to just do the disks and pads yourself.
 
If you are skimming your discs, you need to replace the pads as well and follow a bedding in procedure.
 
Crappitty crap crap. After reading that..it says you can use current pads, but you have to wear them in nicely and properly and the pads need to wear evenly. Think Im might just need new pads too...

So think the pads will need to be replaced and the discs skimmed/replaced :(
 
What car is it?

If they are warped then skimming is not the best thing to do.

Front brake disks and pads are pretty easy to change so if you are willing to do it yourself its pretty cheap to just do the disks and pads yourself.

This ^^ and what car is it?
 
Ok...got back from Supa Quick. They took the wheels off, I felt the disks and could see deposit from the pads. The centre of the disk is very smooth compared to the inner and outer parts. Added, the inner parts seems a bit raised....dont know if it felt like that just because it was smoother than the rest of the disk.

They checked the brakes and they need replacing, said its better to get them skimmed and new pads at the same time. Skimming will be R350 for both and new pads take grand total to R1070. They also said new discs will be about R500 for both.

So ja, will have to get both done. At least I know now it's a combination of needing new brakes and new discs/discs skimmed ;)

THanks for help all :)
 
Welcome to the forum, MrBigglesworth. BTW, I love your fourm name :)
 
At R350 for skimming vs R500 for new discs I would get new discs.

Did they check the old discs for warping or just did a visual inspection of the surface?
 
:D Dankie!

Nope, it was a visual inspection, I ran my finger over the discs too after reading up about what to look out for WRT indications of disc wear, brake pad deposits etc. So the disc dont look great. But hey - at least I know now...
 
A warped disc is rare and not really visible to the naked eye, you have to check it with a dial gauge and if it's warped skimming won't help for long as the warp is still there and would show itself again soon. For uneven surfaces, grooves etc skimming is fine as long as the highs & lows are not to bad else you would have to take off to much material.
 
It was probably just your brake pads. The same thing happened to me a few months back. A shudder when breaking. A brake pad was worn. I wanted to skim but SupaQuik refused, saying that my disks were in good condition. I was surprised that they refused my business. Skimming would have meant another R700 for them. I ordered my brakes online from Star Brake and Clutch and took them to SupaQuik for fitting.
 
Doesn't the ABS produce a shudder as well when it is applied?

That would be on the pedal itself, not transfer to the steering wheel. It's more of a vibration than a shudder and is perfectly consistent.

Also by the time you have ABS activating you have smoke coming from your tyres.

But this problem sounds like it could be something other than the brakes themselves.

Maybe CV Joints or wheel bearings?


I also don't see the point of skimming, rather just replace the whole lot. Then again when you pay someone else to do this rather basic job the difference is a fortune.
 
to all that are having trouble with this, i had the same issue, unfortunately i do brake hard and late. the original ATE are very sensitive and tend to warp even with a little heat or even a small splash of water, to keep costs down and to be environmentally friendly they are made from recycled materials. i had my discs changed under warranty several times, after hearing the same sad line "the problem has been fixed" from multiple dealers i decided to do it myself, i found the solution, Try ferodo discs and safeline pads, works like a charm. you can brake as you like with no chance of warp. with the added bonus that the safeline pads are asbestos free so they dont leave that crappy residue on your mags. hope this helps.
 
to all that are having trouble with this, i had the same issue, unfortunately i do brake hard and late. the original ATE are very sensitive and tend to warp even with a little heat or even a small splash of water, to keep costs down and to be environmentally friendly they are made from recycled materials. i had my discs changed under warranty several times, after hearing the same sad line "the problem has been fixed" from multiple dealers i decided to do it myself, i found the solution, Try ferodo discs and safeline pads, works like a charm. you can brake as you like with no chance of warp. with the added bonus that the safeline pads are asbestos free so they dont leave that crappy residue on your mags. hope this helps.

In other words, you drive like a ********..........


Learn to drive properly and you won't have a brake problem - the problem isn't the brakes, it's your lack of mechanical sympathy.
 
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X