Calcium battery

[YoungRedNed]

Hi Guys an Girls (PC Correct)

I am looking for factual information, not smart ar*se uninformed replies from those who cannot resist seeing their name in print. I have a Ford Laser 1.4 1991 which up to last February had an standard Lead Acid battery. This battery lasted about 4 years before it failed. My local supplier replaced the original lead-acid battery with an Calcium battery.

After a few weeks I notice the Calcium battery was slowly losing its charge. I recharged the battery but after a week or so it again began to lose its charge. I had the Battery tested and was told 'Car charge rate = 13.6 volts. New 'battery not holding a load'. A replacement Calcium battery was fitted

A few weeks later the 'new' battery had again discharged to the point where it could hardly turn the engine over. Another evaluations showed the no-load current drain with only the alarm system and the car clock running was 120mA (0.12amp). The charging voltage on fast tick-over was 14.1v. I use this car every day with few exceptions.

As I write, the battery is in need of another recharge. None of my original lead-acid batteries used since 1991 needed to be externally recharged while in use.

Anyone had a similar experience with Calcium batteries? I'm told lead-acid batteries are no-longer made!

 

[HavocXphere]

I am looking for factual information, not smart ar*se uninformed replies from those who cannot resist seeing their name in print.

Tempted to post a smart ar*se reply just for that...actually I think I will - seeing how we're preemptively insulting people.

Anyone had a similar experience with Calcium batteries? I'm told lead-acid batteries are no-longer made!

Surprise. Calcium batteries are a *type* of lead acid batteries. At this stage I'd like to predict that your mention of "uninformed" in the opening post will lead you to googling the phrase "Dunning-Kruger" in exactly 3.5 seconds...and no I won't link to it else the 3.5 prediction won't hold.

I guess if I don't actually comment on the actual [-] question [/-] scenario then I'll catch some flak so here goes:
Battery one "fails" in your car
Battery two "doesn't hold charge" in your car
Battery three "could hardly turn the engine over" in your car

Now aside from all involving failing batteries, what do those three scenarios have in common?

PS How am I doing on the smart ar*se front...

Thread commentary: I must admit though the Dunning-Kruger thing is potentially wildly meta, given this post. hmmm :wtf:

 

[Azbubu]

Everyone knows you recharge calcium batteries by pouring milk into them, smart arse.

 

[HavocXphere]

Everyone knows you recharge calcium batteries by pouring milk into them, smart arse.

1 Cuil. You can do better abzo...

 

[spiderz]

What make of battery is it?
They sold you a crap battery. Tell them you want a new one. (with warranty.)

 

[Y'all Qaeda]

Forget the battery. It's the car. Rectify the situation by replacing with something over than a Ford. Ask Rouxenator, he has a couple of Volkswagens and loves the brand

 

[AstroTurf]

Hi Guys an Girls (PC Correct)

I am looking for factual information, not smart ar*se uninformed replies from those who cannot resist seeing their name in print. I have a Ford Laser 1.4 1991 which up to last February had an standard Lead Acid battery. This battery lasted about 4 years before it failed. My local supplier replaced the original lead-acid battery with an Calcium battery.

After a few weeks I notice the Calcium battery was slowly losing its charge. I recharged the battery but after a week or so it again began to lose its charge. I had the Battery tested and was told 'Car charge rate = 13.6 volts. New 'battery not holding a load'. A replacement Calcium battery was fitted

A few weeks later the 'new' battery had again discharged to the point where it could hardly turn the engine over. Another evaluations showed the no-load current drain with only the alarm system and the car clock running was 120mA (0.12amp). The charging voltage on fast tick-over was 14.1v. I use this car every day with few exceptions.

As I write, the battery is in need of another recharge. None of my original lead-acid batteries used since 1991 needed to be externally recharged while in use.

Anyone had a similar experience with Calcium batteries? I'm told lead-acid batteries are no-longer made!

2 posts and this?
Not a very smart arse on the other end of that keyboard...

 

[Azbubu]

1 Cuil. You can do better abzo...

But does he deserve better?

 

[ponder]

Another evaluations showed the no-load current drain with only the alarm system and the car clock running was 120mA (0.12amp).

Is that a normal/acceptable value?

 

[AstroTurf]

I thought you were supposed to refill them with bicarbonate of soda.

 

[Former member 61586]

Either all the "new" batteries fitted are duds, or your car is is the problem. Drawing excessive current while car is off.

What brand of "new" battery was fitted?

 

[Mars]

If there is a constant slow drainage on the vehicle its probably something intermittent on the vehicle like a faulty door switch that turns the interior light on or maybe something to do with the radio. Its impossible to tell without checking and I have even had cases where after spending 3 days on diagnostics we still couldn't find the problem on a TT. It then went to Audi and they couldn't find the problem either.

I can tell you that if the battery is faulty it generally does not take a few days to go flat. There is something wrong with your car. I would suspect that whatever is wrong with your car killed your first battery when it went wrong and then remains to compromise every new battery you install.

And just for definition: A silver calcium battery is a lead acid battery in every way. It just has the additives of silver and calcium in the manufacturing process to primarily reduce gassing and increase cranking ability.

 

[Mars]

Either all the "new" batteries fitted are duds, or your car is is the problem. Drawing excessive current while car is off.

What brand of "new" battery was fitted?

IMO unless it was the cheapest chinese crap he could find, no battery would behave like that. My money is on the car.

 

[Y'all Qaeda]

Hi Guys an Girls (PC Correct)

I am looking for factual information, not smart ar*se uninformed replies from those who cannot resist seeing their name in print. I have a Ford Laser 1.4 1991 which up to last February had an standard Lead Acid battery. This battery lasted about 4 years before it failed. My local supplier replaced the original lead-acid battery with an Calcium battery.

My LG bluray 3d DVD player plays hardrives with ntfs fine and every format of video/music and was also quite cheap (R800)

Just what I am looking for. Can you give the model number and the name of the store you bought it from. Also, does it have RCA outputs for video/sound or only HDMI?

Much obliged
Young Red

So young red, besides necro'ing old threads and insulting the members of MyBB. What do you do?

 

[Former member 61586]

IMO unless it was the cheapest chinese crap he could find, no battery would behave like that. My money is on the car.

Agreed, car is the likely cause. But it could be possible that he just has terrible luck.

I also know that lots of battery places dont supply a FULLY charged battery. So if your communte consists of short trips, the alternator will never be able to fully charge the battery and this also causes a battery to degrade faster when it is running at 60-70% capacity without ever being fully charged.

 

[Rocket Raccoon]

My name is in print.

 

[Zuner]

Hi Guys an Girls (PC Correct)

I am looking for factual information, not smart ar*se uninformed replies from those who cannot resist seeing their name in print. I have a Ford Laser 1.4 1991 which up to last February had an standard Lead Acid battery. This battery lasted about 4 years before it failed. My local supplier replaced the original lead-acid battery with an Calcium battery.

After a few weeks I notice the Calcium battery was slowly losing its charge. I recharged the battery but after a week or so it again began to lose its charge. I had the Battery tested and was told 'Car charge rate = 13.6 volts. New 'battery not holding a load'. A replacement Calcium battery was fitted

A few weeks later the 'new' battery had again discharged to the point where it could hardly turn the engine over. Another evaluations showed the no-load current drain with only the alarm system and the car clock running was 120mA (0.12amp). The charging voltage on fast tick-over was 14.1v. I use this car every day with few exceptions.

As I write, the battery is in need of another recharge. None of my original lead-acid batteries used since 1991 needed to be externally recharged while in use.

Anyone had a similar experience with Calcium batteries? I'm told lead-acid batteries are no-longer made!

i have to disagree with everyone saying its the car, firstly the 1st battery died simply cause it was at the end of its life, 4 years is pretty decent. secondly the reson why the silver calcium battery lost charge slowly is cause your alternator is charging at to low a rate for calcium batteries. i while back i wanted to put a calcium battery in my 1999 Hyundai Accent but didnt cause of what i found then regarding charging voltage. Google it and see.

this is from wiki "Silver calcium batteries generally require more charging voltage (14.4 to 14.8 V) and may not be functional in older vehicles because their power generating systems (alternators) give lower voltages than those of modern vehicles. This also may occur with static chargers, because some fail to charge these batteries."

 

[Mars]

i have to disagree with everyone saying its the car, firstly the 1st battery died simply cause it was at the end of its life, 4 years is pretty decent. secondly the reson why the silver calcium battery lost charge slowly is cause your alternator is charging at to low a rate for calcium batteries. i while back i wanted to put a calcium battery in my 1999 Hyundai Accent but didnt cause of what i found then regarding charging voltage. Google it and see.

this is from wiki "Silver calcium batteries generally require more charging voltage (14.4 to 14.8 V) and may not be functional in older vehicles because their power generating systems (alternators) give lower voltages than those of modern vehicles. This also may occur with static chargers, because some fail to charge these batteries."

I've been over this. Older cars draw less from the battery and therefore a charge rate of between 13.8 and 14.4 ( the charge rate of older cars) would be acceptable.

Do you understand the difference between a lead antimony battery, a hybrid battery, a calcium battery and a silver calcium battery?

 

[Zuner]

I've been over this. Older cars draw less from the battery and therefore a charge rate of between 13.8 and 14.4 ( the charge rate of older cars) would be acceptable.

Do you understand the difference between a lead antimony battery, a hybrid battery, a calcium battery and a silver calcium battery?

you just bluntly ignored fact, plain and simple should you use a silver calcium battery your alternator needs to charge at a higher rate too, knowing the difference between those batteries has got nothing to do with anything.

yes older cars draw less from the battery but that doesn't compensate for not having the required voltage in the first place.

@YoungRedNed replace the calcium batt with a normal willard lead acid battery and watch your problems disappear. my willard is going on 3 years now and the silver calcium in my Ford Fiesta is going on 6 years now..

 

[boxerulez]

Im running a 72 1600 vw with a generator fitted and my silver calcium battery is 9years old now. Not a single day of problems. I run 20km per day with this car including early morning driving with head and auxiliary lights.