Car Alternator

thechamp said:
Welcome, everyone has left, it's only the two of us here, i thought people on here are helpful?
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Somebody moved this thread from "Off Topic" to "Motoring and Transportation: Cars, Bikes and Planes".
That's why there are no other responses. The majority of people read off topic only. Well so I think.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
Ok.
Now how do I wire it correctly and where are the other wires?
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You removed them from the old alternator. It is all still there. If the old one had a different plug you just remove that to expose the wires. And add new connectors.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
Ok.
Now how do I wire it correctly and where are the other wires?
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Trust|Nobody said:
But without the L connected the warning light on the panel will stay on.
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Going to lunch, Hopefully will get some time to discuss this further when I come back, the warning light is just that, as long as you know why it's there there's no problem.
 
rietrot said:
You removed them from the old alternator. It is all still there. If the old one had a different plug you just remove that to expose the wires. And add new connectors.
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The old one didn't have a plug, it was just the single wire and bolt for ground.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
The old one didn't have a plug, it was just the single wire and bolt for ground.
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That isn't right. The sensor has a separate wire, maybe the old one grouned on the engine, you'll need to check that the new one also grounds somewhere to form an electrical circuit.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
The old one didn't have a plug, it was just the single wire and bolt for ground.
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The bolt in your pic of the Bosch B+ is not ground, it goes to battery + the D+ goes to ign.

Edit: Wrt your original post, If I can recall correctly (senility is approaching fast),if you remove the regulator you will see a metal contact strip between regulator and alternator, this corrodes causing the light to stay on. Clean with some fine sand paper and it's good to go.

This was on an old 1992 citi golf I had, but could be you have the same problem ,easy enough to check.
 
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So the way I see it:

thechamp said:
S - This pin is used to sense the voltage at the battery, This pin is connected to the positive terminal of the battery at all times, in most wiring arrangements via a 7.5A fuse marked ALT-S (Alternator Sense).
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This is simple and straightforward.

L - This pin is used to turn the alternator charge warning light ON / OFF, This pin is Grounded by the regulator as required to turn the alternator charge warning light ON. The alternator charge warning light should be wired with one side of the light connected to battery voltage (Ignition Switched) and one side of the light connected to this regulator pin. Light ON = Error Condition, light OFF = Normal.
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I am a little bit confused by this one, maybe someone will clarify, it is either going to ground or ignition.

IG - The alternator regulator is turned on by this signal, This pin is connected to battery voltage when the ignition switch is in RUN and CRANK positions.
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This connects to that ignition, that would be the cable which was connected to D+
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Can anyone comment on that, do some corrections if necessary.
 
chromedome said:
Edit: Wrt your original post, If I can recall correctly (senility is approaching fast),if you remove the regulator you will see a metal contact strip between regulator and alternator, this corrodes causing the light to stay on. Clean with some fine sand paper and it's good to go.
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This is not a problem of a malfunctioning warning light. The alternator really isn't working, it's not charging the battery. Did you mean the light coming on was a malfunction?
 
chromedome said:
The bolt in your pic of the Bosch B+ is not ground, it goes to battery + the D+ goes to ign.

Edit: Wrt your original post, If I can recall correctly (senility is approaching fast),if you remove the regulator you will see a metal contact strip between regulator and alternator, this corrodes causing the light to stay on. Clean with some fine sand paper and it's good to go.

This was on an old 1992 citi golf I had, but could be you have the same problem ,easy enough to check.
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Which one is the regulator and how do I remove it?
If it the thing with the EL 14V 4C written on it, it only has one screw and something like a rivet on the other side.
 
Trust|Nobody said:
I don't know, the mechanic was removed it and replaced it with the new alternator. I didn't notice.

What did the tazz have?
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The only thing I saw was the yellow cable connecting to the D+ I think, the B+ cable as well as that black cable connected to the capacitor thingy.
 
The W connection is a slot connection for a plug, just like the plug from that blue box thing on the Bosch (going into the slot next to D+).
 
What progress have you made so far in identifying cables and those terminals? Is one end of that capacitor connected to ground?
 
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Trust|Nobody said:
Which one is the regulator and how do I remove it?
If it the thing with the EL 14V 4C written on it, it only has one screw and something like a rivet on the other side.
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Thats it, mine had screws the offending bit is circled.s-l1600 - Copy.jpg
 
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