Car not starting properly ... need advice!

By the way, he also said my catalytic converter was clogged up, so he had to 'decat it'. I literally have no idea wtf that even means.
But it didn't solve ****.
 
By the way, he also said my catalytic converter was clogged up, so he had to 'decat it'. I literally have no idea wtf that even means.
But it didn't solve ****.
Decat means taking off the catalytic converter on your exhaust. You would've known if it was clogged as it would make a knocking sound.
They should not have just taken it off as that will affect a lot in modern cars
 
Decat means taking off the catalytic converter on your exhaust. You would've known if it was clogged as it would make a knocking sound.
They should not have just taken it off as that will affect a lot in modern cars

Did not hear any knocking sound, but he assured me it was clogged up...

What can happen?? He said we don't have emissions laws like they do in Europe, so wasn't necessary.
 
Last edited:
Did not hear any knocking sound, but he assured me it was clogged up...

What can happen?? He said we don't have emissions laws like they do in Europe, so wasn't necessary.
He just took out the catalytic converter without informing you first or asking?
 
Last edited:
Did not hear any knocking sound, but he assured me it was clogged up...

What can happen?? He said we don't have emissions laws like they do in Europe, so wasn't necessary.
Actually what you're describing can happen, the ecu can get wrong readings and try adjust to the missing reading
 
He just took out the catalytic converter without informing you first or asking?

Yeh, he informed me first, but wtf do I know? I'm just your average lamen. He told me it was clogged and not necessary, so I gave him the go-ahead.
 
They have diagnostic tools these days so they dont waste time testing every single component.
 
Well 2 problems that are very very common, the plugs, and also the cords that go onto the plugs (Bougi Cords) that should have been the first test as its a miss fire so they should check the plugs if the were wet or just in good shaped, and then the bougi cords as they get old and brittle in places not seen to the eye. Hope it helps if you still struggling PM me if your around JHB can see if i cannot come through over the weekend.
There is also something "cap" something or other.
It only really comes into play when starting the car.


Rather give me a broken PC. I can fix that! The car is the mechanics problem! :D
 
Invest in an OBDII reader, that hooks up to your phone ( blutooth) I got one off bidorbuy. It will give you more direct clues as to what's wrong than all the thumb sucking and it was cheaper than what mechanics charge for a single diagnosis.
 
First thing, get another mechanic/workshop because their diagnostics are completely useless. First a new battery for a bad idling car, then a crack in the manifold that is only obvious shortly after starting. What next?
 
Any recommendations for mechanics in CT??? :confused:

Bit peeved I've just spent R4,500 for what seems like a waste of time...
 
Last edited:
If you would like me to have a look at your car I can. Fixed a mates car after half a dozen workshops could not get it right.
PM me.
 
There is also something "cap" something or other.
It only really comes into play when starting the car.


Rather give me a broken PC. I can fix that! The car is the mechanics problem! :D
Distributor cap just fyi. Causes crap if water gets in.
 
.

2) Try pumping your accelerator 3 times in the morning before you start the engine. My uncle used to do this as "his fuel pump was lazy"

Absolutely no point to this on a modern fuel injected car and dubious whether it had any point other than superstition on a carb car.

Your foot should be nowhere near the accelerator to start the car.
 
The head technician that's working on my car apparently came from VW...
Weird thing is, it can happen during the day as well, after leaving it in the hot sun for an hour or so, so can't understand how that can be battery-related?

Could be the voltage regulator overheating.

So not directly the battery, but the electric system feeding through incorrect voltage.

Used to happen often on an old bike of mine.
 
Could be the voltage regulator overheating.

So not directly the battery, but the electric system feeding through incorrect voltage.

Used to happen often on an old bike of mine.

Never thought of that, strangely enough it could also be the negative cable going to the battery. I had that replaced at GM on my Cruze a year ago, it was giving odd symptoms. GM flashed firmware and replaced various things, though I kept telling them, the negative cable is probably the problem, there was even a recall on that. Eventually it was resolved and one of the symptoms was difficulty starting.
 
Never thought of that, strangely enough it could also be the negative cable going to the battery. I had that replaced at GM on my Cruze a year ago, it was giving odd symptoms. GM flashed firmware and replaced various things, though I kept telling them, the negative cable is probably the problem, there was even a recall on that. Eventually it was resolved and one of the symptoms was difficulty starting.

To be honest I've never actually seen it happen on a car but the symptoms seem identical and I'm sure the same applies.

Oddly also had a problem with the negative on my Corsa back in the day. In my case literally just fastening it properly sorted it out.

On the bike it would start happily enough under moderate conditions but then you rode it say 50km and stopped quickly it wouldn't start again immediately until it cooled down sufficiently.

Was a known problem with Honda OEM units across the board. Many people just fitted a heatsink and fan.
 
Last edited:
Top
Sign up to the MyBroadband newsletter
X