Car sound advice

[UrBaN963]

So I'll be taking delivery of my new car today - 2012 Nissan Micra Acenta.

As a little hatch, it has little hatch sound which is not quite what I'd like it to be. So, I want to upgrade somewhat.

Now, I DON'T want to put 2x 12" and 2x 6" x 9" and rattle my number plate. I don't live in those areas

I just want cleared sound with enough bass to balance. So I 'm thinking to replace the existing door speakers with ones with better sound.

From what I understand, I'll need to match Resistance, and then I want something with a high frequency range. Correct?

I don't have the dimensions of the speakers yet but assume they're standard-sized mids.

In terms of bass, I'm not 100% what to do. My brother indicated having a 12" and an amp I can have, though I don't know what brands, models etc yet.

So, upgraded mids running off the HU and a 12" on the amp - sounds okay? This will be a budget setup, I don't have the cash for a system-wide upgrade or Bose-level components at this time unfortunately.

Suggestions please?

 

[TheFriendlyGhost]

from memory, you work in Midrand?
Down Richards drive (towards Alandale) is a place called Fixtrade 1750. They specialise in Blaupunkt which is what is installed in the Micra from the factory. They should be able to advise you better and will probably have a decent set of speakers that match your cars current config

 

[UrBaN963]

Yes I am, thanks for that. I shall check it out. Correct you are, Blaupunkt is the standard on them.

 

[ChrisThomas]

If you get some decent door speakers (like 60w rms continual) and run them all off the amp you should have much better sound, if you run new better speakers off the HU chances are there won't be much difference, the little amp in a HU is worth about 10w continuous power to each speaker, and a little known fact is that you cause more damage to speakers by under - powering them than to put too much power into them...

I would go to a few different audio shops and give them what you have in terms of amps and such and give them a budget and ask them what they think would best suit your needs

 

[UrBaN963]

Thanks for the info man. Think I may just do that.

 

[The_Traveller]

When anyone mentions 6x9's , it's very clear they know fokall about car audio.

And FYI op, Almost any kind of speaker can make your car (number plate) rattle....

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

In terms of bass, I'm not 100% what to do. My brother indicated having a 12" and an amp I can have, though I don't know what brands, models etc yet.

So, upgraded mids running off the HU and a 12" on the amp - sounds okay? This will be a budget setup, I don't have the cash for a system-wide upgrade or Bose-level components at this time unfortunately.

You don't need your sub to be that big, especially in a small car. A decent 8" will do just fine, and it'll save you a lot of boot space.

I would just get a 4 channel amp to drive the split system and the sub. It's not going to sound as good as it could have if you drive the splits off an underpowered head unit...

 

[UrBaN963]

When anyone mentions 6x9's , it's very clear they know fokall about car audio.

And FYI op, Almost any kind of speaker can make your car (number plate) rattle....

Yea I know man, I was just alluding to those types who have a conquest with 3 hubcaps but when you open the boot its 2x12" in a homemade box, powered by a StarSound amp pushing 43000W PMPO of pure distortion. Drive down the street and all you hear is grr grr grr grr grr.

I just want rich, clear sound.

 

[UrBaN963]

You don't need your sub to be that big, especially in a small car. A decent 8" will do just fine, and it'll save you a lot of boot space.

I would just get a 4 channel amp to drive the split system and the sub. It's not going to sound as good as it could have if you drive the splits off an underpowered head unit...

My only thought on this was the wiring, don't particularly want to open up the dash on a car I've not yet even taken delivery of

It would sound best though, wouldn't it?

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

My only thought on this was the wiring, don't particularly want to open up the dash on a car I've not yet even taken delivery of

It would sound best though, wouldn't it?

Don't stress about all that, a decent installer will put it back together properly.

Another option would be to use an active sub (with a built in amplifier). And a smaller 2-ch amp to drive the front splits.

What's your budget?

 

[Foxhound5366]

Back in the day I ended up buying a Sony head unit and four Sony Xplod speakers: smaller ones up front, bigger in the back. That did what I needed it to ... right up until my car was stolen. I just got it all fitted at the radio place that sold the equipment to me.

Good luck Bunny, be sure to share a photo of your new baby! And enjoy It's a big moment to get a vehicle that will keep you dry in the rain.

 

[UrBaN963]

Don't stress about all that, a decent installer will put it back together properly.

Another option would be to use an active sub (with a built in amplifier). And a smaller 2-ch amp to drive the front splits.

What's your budget?

Hmmm that's something to look at. I haven't actually calculated a budget to be honest. My very first thought was "Ill pop in to a sound shop and buy one of those boxes of Pioneer 5 1/4" mids and call it a day". But then I though about it and I'm not sure that will cut it. It did make a huge difference on my Citi Golf some years ago, but still wasn't what anyone would call fantastic sound.

 

[UrBaN963]

Back in the day I ended up buying a Sony head unit and four Sony Xplod speakers: smaller ones up front, bigger in the back. That did what I needed it to ... right up until my car was stolen. I just got it all fitted at the radio place that sold the equipment to me.

Good luck Bunny, be sure to share a photo of your new baby! And enjoy It's a big moment to get a vehicle that will keep you dry in the rain.

Yea still waiting on the damn bank Feel like it's taking too long :crylaugh:

 

[Foxhound5366]

Yea still waiting on the damn bank Feel like it's taking too long :crylaugh:

Honestly it is. Who're you financing through? Some corner spaza shop?

It's maybe not too late to ask the dealership if you got any other approvals (normally they'd send an application to a few banks) and go with the next one you feel comfortable with. I can personally recommend MFC for giving great interest rates, although WesBank's online systems are better (apparently -> never got a chance to use them before).

 

[The_Traveller]

Yea I know man, I was just alluding to those types who have a conquest with 3 hubcaps but when you open the boot its 2x12" in a homemade box, powered by a StarSound amp pushing 43000W PMPO of pure distortion. Drive down the street and all you hear is grr grr grr grr grr.

I just want rich, clear sound.

No bud, you not getting me.

You can have the best in your car but if you don't "sound proof" (deadening) your vehicle, you'll still get the grr grr grr all the time every time.

Contact solly from Hygrade, based in JHB south. One of the best in the business ...

 

[Mike Hoxbig]

Hmmm that's something to look at. I haven't actually calculated a budget to be honest. My very first thought was "Ill pop in to a sound shop and buy one of those boxes of Pioneer 5 1/4" mids and call it a day". But then I though about it and I'm not sure that will cut it. It did make a huge difference on my Citi Golf some years ago, but still wasn't what anyone would call fantastic sound.

I went to Rivonia Car Sound and they were pretty helpful. They're also very flexible - so they'll install something and if you're not happy they'll try different options until you are.

For decent quality budget options, I'd say the following:
Kicker 10" passive sub with enclosure: R1,999
Kicker splits: R1,099
JBL 4-ch amp: R1,999

Or:
JBL active sub: R1,999
Kicker splits: R1,099
JBL 2-ch amp: R1,250

Would come down to your preference. The passive sub route would sound better but take up more boot space. The active sub route would sound good, but not as good as a passive sub, and take up less boot space.

You also need to factor in installation costs and sound/vibration-proofing. I'm not sure how much it is as each car is different...

 

[killerbyte]

Yesterday I swapped out a cheap amp in my car for a Kicker DXA250.4

I have JBL splits in the front and a JBL 12-inch Dual Voice coil sub (I have it set low since I don't like to shake my windows). I cannot stress this enough... spend good money on an amp. Hell go for Kicker. I find the Kicker amps add a warmth to the music that I really like.

 

[The_Traveller]

^ he just needs a good quality sub powered by a good quality amp, in a sealed enclosure.

 

[UrBaN963]

No bud, you not getting me.

You can have the best in your car but if you don't "sound proof" (deadening) your vehicle, you'll still get the grr grr grr all the time every time.

Contact solly from Hygrade, based in JHB south. One of the best in the business ...

I am getting you and I know what you're saying. We've veered way off the point of this thread now, so forgive me if I don't entertain the semantic nitpicking any further.

I went to Rivonia Car Sound and they were pretty helpful. They're also very flexible - so they'll install something and if you're not happy they'll try different options until you are.

For decent quality budget options, I'd say the following:
Kicker 10" passive sub with enclosure: R1,999
Kicker splits: R1,099
JBL 4-ch amp: R1,999

Or:
JBL active sub: R1,999
Kicker splits: R1,099
JBL 2-ch amp: R1,250

Would come down to your preference. The passive sub route would sound better but take up more boot space. The active sub route would sound good, but not as good as a passive sub, and take up less boot space.

You also need to factor in installation costs and sound/vibration-proofing. I'm not sure how much it is as each car is different...

Thanks man, I'll check those products out. I don't even mind doing the installation myself, I'm fairly hands on. Will see what they quote and take it from there I guess.

 

[The_Traveller]

I am getting you and I know what you're saying. We've veered way off the point of this thread now, so forgive me if I don't entertain the semantic nitpicking any further.


.

No it's clearly on topic/point since you mentioned it in your op.

You're very confused, and clearly ignorant. At least I gain post counts ...