Car won't start - Suggestions on possible problems?

Robocop said:
My apologies. I see that there are 2 different types of batteries available to car manufacturers. Series and parallel types.
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A 12V lead acid, automotive battery is always wired in series internally.
It is impossible to produce a single cell 12V lead acid battery otherwise you'd be defying the laws of chemistry. A single cell can only ever produce 2.1V using lead and sulphuric acid.
Larger vehicles like trucks may have multiple 12V or 24V (12 cells in series) batteries wired in parallel but the individual batteries have cells wired in series.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_battery
 
Robocop said:
That is not correct. If they were connected in series, if one cell dies the whole circuit would be interrupted and there would be no current flow.
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How do you make a 12V lead acid battery if the maximum voltage per cell is only 2.1V?
It's chemistry 101. If you don't believe me go Google.
That's why automotive batteries fail so easily when a single cell dies.
 
Hi guys thanks a lot for the advice, going to save me some cash on a mechanic :D. I think I need to check my booklet on this, does using a non-Ford branded battery void the warranty (or any vehicle brand for that matter)? My current battery has a big Ford sticker stuck to it and I still have 2 years of the warranty left, was given an extended warranty, so I don't want to potentially void it.
 
Get the warranty to replace the battery
 
Mystic Twilight said:
Hi guys thanks a lot for the advice, going to save me some cash on a mechanic :D. I think I need to check my booklet on this, does using a non-Ford branded battery void the warranty (or any vehicle brand for that matter)? My current battery has a big Ford sticker stuck to it and I still have 2 years of the warranty left, was given an extended warranty, so I don't want to potentially void it.
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Doubt the warranty covers a consumable item like a battery.

If you are in Cape Town go to Goodhope Spares for a replacement Exide battery.

Best prices I've found. Three different Battery Centers quoted me double or more for the same battery.
 
Mystic Twilight said:
So I have a Ford Fiesta 2010 model (same model type that came out in 2007/8). More often than not when turning the ignition the car makes that starting noise but there is no ignition, just like your typical Hollywood cliche ignition problems in a horror movie. When I turn the key back and try again, I don't get the ignition noise but instead get a rapid repetitive low pitch clicking like noise and the needles on the instrument cluster move up and down very rapidly in millimeters. At this stage I have to either use jumper cables or push start the car to get it running. If I use any electronics(radio, headlights) before attempting to start the car the above scenario occurs except the car is guaranteed to not start, but there is no obvious indication that the battery is drained such as dimmer than usual headlights.

Obviously a mechanic would know what is wrong, but if someone can give me a few pointers then perhaps I can solve the issue myself. It sounds like the battery needs replacing but the lack of dim high beams or a flat battery makes me think otherwise.

Advice is much appreciated.
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My 2004 Polo was doing the same thing except it would not start no matter what I did, the battery was still new. I asked a mechanic to look at it and it turned out to be a problematic coil or electric coil not too sure what its called exactly, that was changed the car is 100% now.
 
8....3....1 said:
My 2004 Polo was doing the same thing except it would not start no matter what I did, the battery was still new. I asked a mechanic to look at it and it turned out to be a problematic coil or electric coil not too sure what its called exactly, that was changed the car is 100% now.
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Coil has nothing to do with starter. That cure does not relate to OP symptoms.
 
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