Corsa 1.6i sensor problems

[Zakhele001]

Thanks. I was beginning to suspect some swap also. I will try your rearrangement. I was scared of swapping earlier because I saw Voltage of 5,02 when when key on engine off on two wires and 0.02 on one. This voltage did not change when I started the engine and even raved it, which was quite odd.
5v is still within the computer range, it wont hurt anything I would guess...

 

[Zakhele001]

What I found once, the connector at the sensor did not made contact with the wire. a resistor test proved that. I inserted a metal needle, problem sorted.

I also realized the clamp of this connector is used also to push the wires from the back and lock them stiff in place. If you find that the wires of the connectors are not aiming straight into the sensor holes you undo the clamp fully and flip it back like a bonnet flipping back. That will give the wires some play and will aim in better then you can clip back every thing for a tight hold. We are used to most clamps that a permanently molded onto the connector. Maybe thus how we are supposed to connect ( i,e undo the clamp to be like a hinge, connect, then clamp back.) I've seen a lot of people saying that this connector always comes out and its irritating. Maybe just pushing in contributes to the wear,,,???

 

[upup]

Check the resistance.

 

[TheChamp]

I also realized the clamp of this connector is used also to push the wires from the back and lock them stiff in place. If you find that the wires of the connectors are not aiming straight into the sensor holes you undo the clamp fully and flip it back like a bonnet flipping back. That will give the wires some play and will aim in better then you can clip back every thing for a tight hold. We are used to most clamps that a permanently molded onto the connector. Maybe thus how we are supposed to connect ( i,e undo the clamp to be like a hinge, connect, then clamp back.) I've seen a lot of people saying that this connector always comes out and its irritating. Maybe just pushing in contributes to the wear,,,???

It's the material the map sensor is made from, it's brittle plastic so if you use excessive force removing it the tooth where the connector is supposed to snap on breaks off, mine was broken by the workshop who were doing the clutch.

 

[TheChamp]

I am sure swapping the wires should work, the wires are thin so it doesn't look like there is 12V there so it's unlikely that 5V could have damaged anything.

 

[Zakhele001]

I am sure swapping the wires should work, the wires are thin so it doesn't look like there is 12V there so it's unlikely that 5V could have damaged anything.

You are the real champ. I put the cables as you directed and it worked...! It was the two last cables that were swapped. I was going to have a hard time swapping randomly because I was going to start from the left. That left one was in its correct slot. I've never had such a wide smile in years.
Thanks champ.

 

[Zakhele001]

Managed to get almost everything working well. The Rev counter now works ,,, see pic. Everything is almost there. I still have a problem with my MAF sensor on the intake manifold. Someone said its not technically correct to call it a MAF sensor. If it has two pins its only an Intake Air Temperature sensor???
I think it is not working its self and also the harness back to the ecm may be bad. I don't detect a change in revs when I disconnect it, and when i check continuity ( key off ), there is no beep ( i.e on beep mode with multimeter probes touching on each hole),
I think the car is running on default settings? Also if I approach a stop sign at a higher speed it stalls but does not have a problem when I restart and it will idle as normal. No, misfire but the general idling sound at the tail piece is not as smooth as per my experience
. Rev counter is quite stable.
Very confused.

 

[TheChamp]

The air sensor disconnection does not result in any noticeable change in the operation of the car, you just get an engine light and bad fuel economy.

What did you do with the idle control valve? It is usually the culprit when it comes to stalling.

 

[Zakhele001]

Hi,

I had ruled out the idle sensor based on that the car seems to start in one kick and has no problem with idling immediately. I don't touch the accelerator at start and at idle. Unless if the idle sensor is stuck at almost fully open. If fully open, it wouldn't stall at quick deceleration and stop. Also the engine is not that powerfull. It sometimes gets quick busts of power!!!
What's your take?

 

[TheChamp]

Hi,

I had ruled out the idle sensor based on that the car seems to start in one kick and has no problem with idling immediately. I don't touch the accelerator at start and at idle. Unless if the idle sensor is stuck at almost fully open. If fully open, it wouldn't stall at quick deceleration and stop. Also the engine is not that powerfull. It sometimes gets quick busts of power!!!
What's your take?

Then you ruled it out incorrectly, I once drove the car all the way from Krugersdorp to Randburg and it would stall at every traffic lights when I had to stop, then start right up with no issues. A good clean sorted the issue, try that first because I found it was full of carbon gunk when I removed it, alternatively get a new one.

Also just clean the whole intake while at it. It's advisable to jack it on the other side so that the dirt comes back out instead of being pushed in.

 

[Zakhele001]

Then you ruled it out incorrectly, I once drove the car all the way from Krugersdorp to Randburg and it would stall at every traffic lights when I had to stop, then start right up with no issues. A good clean sorted the issue, try that first because I found it was full of carbon gunk when I removed it, alternatively get a new one.

Also just clean the whole intake while at it. It's advisable to jack it on the other side so that the dirt comes back out instead of being pushed in.

You could be right, coz I think when I was fouling the spark plugs before you gave me the correct connections I could have fouled the IAC and maybe the intake also. I also have a couple of the IACs from Goldwagen which I kept on changing, maybe the one inside could be faulty cause I remember one of them had the plunger jump out completely when I was testing it manually.
I will try putting another one as I'm sure one was brand new.

 

[Zakhele001]

You could be right, coz I think when I was fouling the spark plugs before you gave me the correct connections I could have fouled the IAC and maybe the intake also. I also have a couple of the IACs from Goldwagen which I kept on changing, maybe the one inside could be faulty cause I remember one of them had the plunger jump out completely when I was testing it manually.
I will try putting another one as I'm sure one was brand new.

For the power aspect, I think I have a problem with the MAF. Would you kindly check where which colour goes on the plug ( with plug connected and clamp up - reading from your left - from infront of the car ) . I see a new pigtail was connected but it is in good condition and I wont change it but I don't trust whoever put a new pigtail.
I'm also worried because there is no beep for continuity.
Both wires are brown but with a stripe of another colour each.

 

[TheChamp]

Sure thing, it's Brown/black and brown/green. Holding it with the clip facing up. From the wires side it's brown/green on the left and brown black on the right.

 

[TheChamp]

Hope it is clear, pity I am not using the car at the moment because I am busy with repairs, I would check what reading I get on the multimeter.

 

[Zakhele001]

Sure thing, it's Brown/black and brown/green. Holding it with the clip facing up. From the wires side it's brown/green on the left and broken black on the right.

Thanks. Your car wiring is identical to mine! I will work on the car again tomorrow afternoon. I can see everything clearly now... I'm going step by step, I'm sure everything is coming together. Thank you for the continuous support.

 

[TheChamp]

It sometimes gets quick busts of power!!!

There is also the troublesome coil pack on those cars, no idea why but for some reason the coil seems to be a weak point.

The also fail in different ways, sometimes its just dead on some cylinders and you get a more pronounced misfire and total lack of power, sometimes it's intermittent, which is when you get the sudden bursts of power.

The fuel relay can also act up, so another thing to check.

 

[Zakhele001]

Thanks. I thought the relay and the coil pack are either dead of fully working and never half dead.!! I have a spare relay, will put it in. I was thinking of a weak fuel pump? I wanted to change the fuel pump first as it is easy on bakkies like dropping a spare wheel coz I also want to clean the tank also. The pump inside sounds too loud and you can hear it from 20m away. Its definitely an after market one. I just got an after market also for R300.00 to test. I will get a complete kit from Goldwagen once I establish that my pump is really weak. Complete kit costs R 1200.00.

 

[TheChamp]

Thanks. I thought the relay and the coil pack are either dead of fully working and never half dead.!! I have a spare relay, will put it in. I was thinking of a weak fuel pump? I wanted to change the fuel pump first as it is easy on bakkies like dropping a spare wheel coz I also want to clean the tank also. The pump inside sounds too loud and you can hear it from 20m away. Its definitely an after market one. I just got an after market also for R300.00 to test. I will get a complete kit from Goldwagen once I establish that my pump is really weak. Complete kit costs R 1200.00.

The whole kit is just housing which is really not necessary to replace, if it's like the hatch it uses a universal pump, got a Bosch one from Midas for around R200 or do. Mine was also buzzing loudly and I replaced it on advise that it was about to fail when it gets loud.

 

[Zakhele001]

I

The whole kit is just housing which is really not necessary to replace, if it's like the hatch it uses a universal pump, got a Bosch one from Midas for around R200 or do. Mine was also buzzing loudly and I replaced it on advise that it was about to fail when it gets loud.

I saw two at Goldwagen, one was R450 and the real Bosch was R750. I have used Bosch before and it comes with the connector ( pig tail). The R450.00 one had no connector inside.
I had went to the other spares and it was the same story, then I went Hyper Parts and just got a no name. It is a copy of the Bosch. Once I establish that my pump is really weak, I will go back to Goldwagen or Bosch Service Cetre and get a genuine Bosch. I gather these other spares now sell fake Bosch products and even fake NGK spark plugs. I still have a bit of trust with Goldwagen.

 

[Zakhele001]

Then you ruled it out incorrectly, I once drove the car all the way from Krugersdorp to Randburg and it would stall at every traffic lights when I had to stop, then start right up with no issues. A good clean sorted the issue, try that first because I found it was full of carbon gunk when I removed it, alternatively get a new one.

Also just clean the whole intake while at it. It's advisable to jack it on the other side so that the dirt comes back out instead of being pushed in.

** Liked the jacking up trick. Never thought of it. Used to just push all the gunk into the combustion chamber.