Corsa 1999 - Crank Sensor Error After New One Installed

Any difference in symptoms with the tank full or under half ?
 
Colin62 said:
You say that three mechanics have looked at it - have you had a diagnostic run on it by an Opel dealer? Many of the ECU systems have more than just the standard error codes, and a dealer might have access to more information than a generic diagnostic machine. Even if they don't, your mechanics are clearly out of ideas and are just spending your money hoping a lucky guess sorts it out.

You say the ECU was checked. Who checked it? Do you know for a fact that they know enough to confirm that it's working 100%?

I'd take the car to a dealership, and discuss it with the workshop manager. Explain what you've tried and ask them to have a look at it. Try to get his agreement that if they swap out parts and it doesn't solve the problem they won't charge you for them. That way they'll put their best problem solver onto the car and he's got more chance of coming right than a generic mechanic who has no backup from the manufacturer.

If they can't sort it, then perhaps it's time to start looking for a replacement.

Out of curiousity, how much have you spent on it so far?
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Yeah i havent had it checked by an Opel dealer yet. Perhaps its time. Last time i went to them they told me i had to leave the car with them for a possible 2 weeks which iv been trying to avoid. Its been checked by AutoECU in Bedfordview Eastrand, and another place i cant remember the name of. AutoECU seems to know their stuff, im a novice with cars so i cant be sure, but their equipment looks a lot more advanced then those generic OBD readers. Also did the paperclip test.

I think i will try the dealer next because im out of options. Yesterday the timing was checked and apparently the timing belt was out by 1 tooth. But its been corrected and the problem remains. Also tried another new coil pack. I bought the car for R21 000.00, worked amazingly for a year and for the last year its just been these problems. So far spent close to R10 000.00 on just trying to get this problem sorted. It is my first car, think i screwed myself initially by going to these back street mechanics. Only i am to blame haha.
 
A3@MBB said:
Battery clamps and neutral contact with car in proper condition?
Sounds like a electrical (voltage) problem to me .
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Yeah the battery connections were also checked and earths were redone. Iv also been thinking it may be an electrical fault. Perhaps if i take the car to the dealer ill get better luck.
 
nivo said:
Maybe try a computer box from another corsa to eliminate that issue. It could be a fault in the box itself.
Maybe water or moisture got in.
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My mechanic tried his box in my car. Same problem. Same error codes lol.
 
KingMikel said:
Maybe introduce the car to a pillar at 60km/h?
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If the dealer tells me they cant help me, this is the best solution i think. Perhaps ill get an axe and do a manual job. Probably get much more joy then i will ever get from this car.
 
Appreciate all the replies so far. Im going to take it to Opel next week when i can lend another car and see what they say. Will post an update then!
 
Sell it. After 8 months of trying to fix my corsair I sold it and it was the best thing I've ever done.
 
idk_0 said:
If the dealer tells me they cant help me, this is the best solution i think. Perhaps ill get an axe and do a manual job. Probably get much more joy then i will ever get from this car.
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dude, ive been there with my picanto, there is another place that kia in my case sent my picanto to,
maybe you might have more luck with them, not far away from auto ECU (who I also visited).

he does do corsas, and not just kias/hyundais
http://www.africanadvice.com/1318198/Auto_Electricians/Germiston/Auto_Lek_Spec/

otherwise I know of another electrician in BEZ valley that also took a look at my car,
 
Have any of the mechanics verified the continuity of the wire from the sensor plug all the way to the ECU? Those are hall effect senders and the signal can easily be lost or attenuated from all the other electrical noises in the car, so even if its shielding is damaged it could be causing issues.

Sure fire way of checking the sensor is sending a signal, is to use an oscilloscope and observe the pulse train on the output of the sensor.

The reason is the car is behaving the way it is, and fueling all over the place is because based on the error code, the ecu cannot see how fast the motor is turning, and has no idea what reference to use on its fueling tables, and as a result reverts to a fail safe fueling map to get the car home or to a repair place.

Again, first prize would be to verify the signal is actually getting to the ECU by means of an oscilloscope, no pulse train means no RPM signal
 
nivo said:
Maybe try a computer box from another corsa to eliminate that issue. It could be a fault in the box itself.
Maybe water or moisture got in.
Click to expand...

Had this with a Citi Golf a few years ago. Took the guy weeks to track it down. Car would start from cold perfectly fine, then once it was warm and you switched off it would need 5 minutes of cool down before it would start. Starter would turn the engine happily but it just wouldn't run.
 
idk_0 said:
So far spent close to R10 000.00 on just trying to get this problem sorted. It is my first car, think i screwed myself initially by going to these back street mechanics. Only i am to blame haha.
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Don't be too hard on yourself - we've all paid school fees somewhere along the way :)
 
Check the breather pipe that runs from the top of the engine back to the throttlebody/Injectors. Disconnect it and close of the side coming from the engine and test the car.
 
WesleyG said:
Have any of the mechanics verified the continuity of the wire from the sensor plug all the way to the ECU? Those are hall effect senders and the signal can easily be lost or attenuated from all the other electrical noises in the car, so even if its shielding is damaged it could be causing issues.

Sure fire way of checking the sensor is sending a signal, is to use an oscilloscope and observe the pulse train on the output of the sensor.

The reason is the car is behaving the way it is, and fueling all over the place is because based on the error code, the ecu cannot see how fast the motor is turning, and has no idea what reference to use on its fueling tables, and as a result reverts to a fail safe fueling map to get the car home or to a repair place.

Again, first prize would be to verify the signal is actually getting to the ECU by means of an oscilloscope, no pulse train means no RPM signal
Click to expand...

Yeah i dont think this has been done. I know my boss has a oscilloscope. If i continue having probs definitely gonna try this.
 
Ok so...

Coil was checked before and a working one was used, still had a problem. So we assumed it was not that.

Timing was checked yesterday and the belt was off by a tooth. And the belt tensioner was loose and bent. When that was fixed, my problem was still there, but slightly different. No misfire on start anymore, only while driving. So then i thought, let me try the coil pack again. BAM! No more misfire. So it was the timing AND coil pack.

Its going a lot better, but not 100%. I still have a hard start, cranks for around 5-10 seconds before it starts in the morning. Power seems to be back mostly, i just have a flat spot sometimes on pull off, and a bit of a jerk when i accelerate from low revs. But i can at least drive the car now without having to rev it like mad to stop it dying.

Really appreciate all the input, hope this helps someone else. Always a tough situation when there is more than 1 thing wrong at the same time. Im hoping i can get my hard start sorted. Dont want to kill my starter and battery etc.
 
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