Custom Water Cooling

Nice thanks for the info, Never heard of the vinegar before. Where are you getting your parts from?
 
nakedpeanut said:
Nice thanks for the info, Never heard of the vinegar before. Where are you getting your parts from?
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Apparently these days most new radiators come with a water soluble flux so you don't have to use vinegar anymore, but I still use it.

Most of the parts I got while I was visiting my family in Canada, but the rest I'll have to get either from Landmark (teh price!!! teh horror!!!!) or from Carbonite. Still checking things out.

Try checking out this guide for some usefull tips. I used it when I started so it's a bit old, but the info is still valid. Also any questions you have can be asked at the watercooling section of XtremeSystems.
 
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please take note...
DO NOT MIX ALLUMINUM AND COPPER IN YOUR SYSTEM
Putting those two metals together in water you get galvanic Oxidization. The Alluminum will effectively become the sacrificial anode and start disintergrating. Use distilled water and change it out every year. At least distilled water wont short out your MB is it comes in contact with electronics...

Oh and if you use vinegar or any other acidic liquids to clean, replace any washers or seals... theyre gonna go to lala-land
 
Ya I know how to make a battery :) haha, well still looking around for parts and prices etc (thanx Archer).. And Ya I know Landmark (teh price!!! teh horror!!!!) :D
 
Had a review site at the back of my mind and finally recalled it: skinneelabs
I also found an excellent spreadsheet for calculating number of rads, pumps, delta T etc etc. Numbers are based off of the testing at Skinneelabs. Its not 100% accurate but will give you a good idea of what you can handle with your chosen pumps and radiators..
 
Yoh just an update :)

Decided to go with:
block: 1 x XSPC RASA with 1/2" barbs $49.95
res/pump: 1 x XSPC X2O 750 with 1/2" barbs $64.94
rad: 1 x Black Ice GT Stealth 240 Onyx Black with 1/2" OD $55.95
tubing: 6 x Clearflex 60 1/2" ID $8.70
fans: 2 x Cooler Master 120mm R4 blue $17.90
Total: $197.44
and will be just under R2200 shipped to SA incl taxes customs etc...
Should get it by the 20th next month...
And I decided to buy a nice new case cm692 advanced to house it all :)

Then a future upgrade will be to buy a mcp655 pump and install it into the reservoir. (yes it can be done :) )
 
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I prefer the Scythe GentleTyphoons. Double ball bearing (so it lasts long and is quiet) and they use almost no power (so its easy to wire mutiple fans to a single fan controller).
 
Reason why i went the CM is they have a suitable rpm/db ratio as well as cfm/db.. I don't wanna go over 25db rating 30 is pushing it.
Oh an they blue :)
I'm also thinking of building a black shroud for the rad.

The order will only be placed on the 6th as I'm ordering with a group. So got time to change. Keep on the suggestions :)
 
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nakedpeanut said:
Reason why i went the CM is they have a suitable rpm/db ratio as well as cfm/db.. I don't wanna go over 25db rating 30 is pushing it.
Oh an they blue :)
I'm also thinking of building a black shroud for the rad.

The order will only be placed on the 6th as I'm ordering with a group. So got time to change. Keep on the suggestions :)
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CM fans are overrated. Those Yate loons/Scythes are better
 
A shroud in the 690 wont work, too cramped for space, unless you are willing to place something outside the case or are placing it at the bottom. As for the fans the Typhoons the fans what to get imo. I know CM says their fans are 19dBa but they are not. I can put my ear right next to some Typhoons and still barely hear them (@1400rpm) but the CM fans I can hear from a mile away. The Typhoons also come with 3 to 4 pin adapters so you can plug into a mobo/fan controller/direct from PSU. Their low power (0.083A for the 1850rpm version vs 0.16A @1200rpm for the CM fan) also helps when you want to control the speed. Also have a look at the Swiftech Apogee XT (think thats the right one). You will not get a better CPU block than that. Its $20 more than the one you have. Finally, I prefer compression fittings over barbs. You will find opinions are very polarised on this but mechanically speaking the compression fittings should work much better (ie not leak).
 
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Shroud: i'm sure I'll figure something out :)
Fans: will look into those typhoons again since they highly praised just the CM have had some good reviews also so thought y not an they look nice.
Block: Looked at it, as well as heat killer ek supreme and alot of others, but but couldn't justify the extra cash over the rasa. Sure the looks is a little dated but performance is awesome for the price.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=253470
Fittings: I know, read up on them but again price is an issue, not paying ~$25 for 6 little fittings that when imported cost about R220. I'll just make sure I clamp nice an good for less than R5 :)
 
Never heard of the Rasa before but you're right, it is a good performer - not very restrictive and good delta T. Oh, its always a good idea to buy an extra one or two fittings, in addition to extra tubing.

edit: where is the silver coil for hassle free maintenance? What are you planning on using to keep your loop clean?
 
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meh I knew I forgot something! Thanks will add it to the order :D an agreed will include a few extra

I think 6 ft tubing should be enough? I doubt I will use more than 4?
 
Order more than 6 foot! What if you cut one piece too short, and now you dont have enough? Tubing is cheap, rather get way more tha required. But yes, ideally I'd say you will use 4ft
 
Ok so i have decided to
get 8ft tubing
added silver killcoil
and 2 extra barbs
AND dum dum dum
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kicked those CM's to the curve and getting yate loons instead.. Now I was reading a write up and this page and particularily this kinda confused me alittle
Because air flow velocity is directly proportional to air flow volume and proportional to the static pressure drop
Click to expand...
so if flow velocity increase so does flow volume to the same extent but there will be a drop in static pressure?
so slower speed fans create more pressure?? I'm confused...
Do do we want there to be a higher drop in pressure? I'm assuming it forces air to be 'pulled' through the rad right?
 
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Yes, pressure drops as airflow increases. Very bad metaphor coming up - if you stand still and push something (like a car) you can move it easily (lots of force/pressure), but if you run at the car and try to move it you cant (low force/pressure). So most fans are quoted (in their specs) with the max airflow and max pressure but you'll never actually get both at the same time. So what specific model you going for? Most of the Yate fans look like noisy little buggers. You'll hear the same recommendation over and over - if you are on a budget you get Yates or whatever, but if you have some simoleons lying around you get either the Noctua-NF or Sythe GentleTyphoons and then you never buy fans again.
 
Ahh I see makes sense now.

Ya I know those loons are noisey but, was planning on getting http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...cts_id=27150:de18798523568aa3706eb3c196b6014e and in the option change it to uncut unsleeved (save $3 each) then it still has the molex connection. Then I wanna do a 12v to 7v mod on it, just until I find a nice fan controller at a good price.
Thought I'd rather buy the fastest and turn it down, so i'll have the extra rpms if i need it.
 
Ok wait... are you getting into water cooling for low noise or low temps. That rad of yours needs some serious horsepower to get air through it (30fpi) and will end up being noisy no matter what. I found a lowish fpi rad (±15fpi) that had similar performance to high fip rads. Let me see if I can find it again. That way you can have the best of both worlds.
 
K awesome :) appreciate the help! thanx
EDIT: I see the rad is very flow restrictive which is not good for the pump I plan on getting might have to look at the MCR 220 or XSPC RS (but it's big so might need huge fans as well)
 
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