Diesel vs petrol

I love my 3L trekker!


Bought a Diesel by accident, now I will never go back to Petrol, had 2x Petrol cars for the last month, can't wait for mine to purr again...
 
Depends on what you want to use it for. Last week I did a trip to Sutherland in a Hilux SRX 2.5 D4D, this is the old 74kw unit so it has as much power as my 1.4 Corsa. It is pain to over take trucks on the N1, yet the fuel economy is incredible for such a large vehicle with my lead foot. Coming back I took the R356 gravel road (rode it 4 times on a bicycle) and because the speed was slower and there was nothing to over take I hardly had to floor it. It used half the amount of fuel.

For a car I would take petrol, for a bakkie I will have it as diesel.
 
Rouxenator said:
Depends on what you want to use it for. Last week I did a trip to Sutherland in a Hilux SRX 2.5 D4D, this is the old 74kw unit so it has as much power as my 1.4 Corsa. It is pain to over take trucks on the N1, yet the fuel economy is incredible for such a large vehicle with my lead foot. Coming back I took the R356 gravel road (rode it 4 times on a bicycle) and because the speed was slower and there was nothing to over take I hardly had to floor it. It used half the amount of fuel.

For a car I would take petrol, for a bakkie I will have it as diesel.
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Mine is 180kw, and 500nm torque, an get 7l/100km
 
Injectors do fail. The D4D I drove had its injectors replaced a few years ago. They blamed dirty diesel. Cost R12k for all. Some Landy TD5 engines with injectors that go for R12k a pop.
 
2.0 diesel - 6.7 l/100 km - 0-100 in 9.2sec -top speed 210 (work car)

2.0 petrol -10.8 l/100km 0-100 in 6.5 sec -top speed 248 (weekend car)

Speed limit on national road 120, the diesel will result in less time spend at the fuel stations , so its actually quicker :)
 
Rouxenator said:
Injectors do fail. The D4D I drove had its injectors replaced a few years ago. They blamed dirty diesel. Cost R12k for all. Some Landy TD5 engines with injectors that go for R12k a pop.
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They fail but they aren't wear parts.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Same goes for the sensible practice of letting a car idle for a minute or so before pulling off in the morning.
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Hey? My cars handbook specifically says it is far better to warm up the cars engine under gentle driving than let it idle. In fact, it actually warns against warming up the engine by idling at start up.
 
Splinter said:
Hey? My cars handbook specifically says it is far better to warm up the cars engine under gentle driving than let it idle. In fact, it actually warns against warming up the engine by idling at start up.
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Like I said part of the Unleaded farce as it does more damage to the environment while the catalytic converter is cold if idling in your driveway, than a leaded car ever did on the entire trip.

But what the other guy say about carbon deposits is quite true but that's if you are really old school and let it idle for many minutes.

I literally mean letting it idle for a minute while you close the door or light your smoke or check your mail so it has just moment to circulate and breath before having to start the real work.

On my bikes there is no way in hell I can start and move off. If I don't start the bike before putting on my helmet and gloves then it will stall by the time I get to the corner or run very very poorly.

On my precious bike it was impossible as it would backfire through the airbox if you tried to get on with it from dead cold.

Cars obviously have four wheels so it's less noticeable just how badly they run from dead cold. Running so over rich will make it choke somewhat, just modern fuel injection technology adapts so quickly to it we hardly tend to notice.

But if you let it idle for just a minute it will run that first mile a whole lot better.

Besides the folks who let there cars live outside need to get the windows and mirrors cleared up before they can go, so might as well let it run a little bit.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Like I said part of the Unleaded farce as it does more damage to the environment while the catalytic converter is cold if idling in your driveway, than a leaded car ever did on the entire trip.

But what the other guy say about carbon deposits is quite true but that's if you are really old school and let it idle for many minutes.

I literally mean letting it idle for a minute while you close the door or light your smoke or check your mail so it has just moment to circulate and breath before having to start the real work.

On my bikes there is no way in hell I can start and move off. If I don't start the bike before putting on my helmet and gloves then it will stall by the time I get to the corner or run very very poorly.

On my precious bike it was impossible as it would backfire through the airbox if you tried to get on with it from dead cold.

Cars obviously have four wheels so it's less noticeable just how badly they run from dead cold. Running so over rich will make it choke somewhat, just modern fuel injection technology adapts so quickly to it we hardly tend to notice.

But if you let it idle for just a minute it will run that first mile a whole lot better.

Besides the folks who let there cars live outside need to get the windows and mirrors cleared up before they can go, so might as well let it run a little bit.
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Dude - you are bringing in a whole lot of things that I was not referencing. And WTF have bikes got to do in this thread? And again, for the part that I bolded above and repeat again:

"But if you let it idle for just a minute it will run that first mile a whole lot better."

Again I say that my manual, from a small company called BMW, says it is wrong to do so. Nothing you have stated above refutes that.
 
Your manual also says you need to break it even properly even though it's been proven time and again that engines that are broken in hard last longer and push out more horsepower

Use your common sense "seat of the pants" and you'll know your car runs better/smoother if it has just that moment to settle before pulling off.

Gears go into position just that bit more smoothly. Engine idles just that little bit lower.

Your manual says a whole lot of things, but it explains none of them, because it applies to the lowest common denominator.

It's got pretty much nothing at all to do with your car and everything to do with the environment by means of saving fuel, preventing pollution and as as I said because it's unleaded.

The car manufacturers are all forced to put that in the manuals now, because especially in America where people aren't worried about theft they leave their cars idling for something like twenty minutes everyday.

It's just like all those recycling logos you see on everything you buy, and has the same motivations.

Has got next to nothing to do with your actual car being better or worse for it.

*****

And just to add fuel to the fire since you obviously believe the manual to be the be all and end all.

http://gomotorsatlanta.com/warming-up-your-car/

I'm advocating exactly that 30 secs to a minute, not waiting for the temp gauge to get up to normal temp. That would take 15 minutes and probably then still not be ready and yes that would **** up your car with carbon deposits.

But giving it just a bit of time to circulate all and get all the pumps whirring away is only going to do it well.

http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobil...arming-your-car-in-the-winter.html/?a=viewall

Before you jump with joy at point two, read it to the end. They say the same thing I'm saying but advocate an even longer period of 2-3 minutes.

http://patch.com/massachusetts/beaconhill/heres-why-you-shouldnt-idle-your-car-cold-mornings

See Americans even have remote start for this. It's a crazy problem in snow countries, thus the disclaimer in the manual.

Extended idling like they speak of is bad for your car, I completely agree with that. But a short moment for it to circulate oil before moving is good for it, which is the conversation at hand.
 
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Splinter said:
Which is not a reply to the ability for petrol's being able to overtake better than a diesle?
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Nope, I'll overtake with pulling a load. (Q7)

I went to Gerotek with my A6(Quattro), and came overall second out of 13 cars. So my Diesel isn't slow, and the bonus, it's not thirsty (in real life).
(Gerotek it was thirsty)

In the last 12 years owning various Audi's (all diesel) I only had 2 expensive problems. On my First A4 I had to replace a turbo and clutch on 240 000km, I bought that one secondhand. Cost me 22k to fix both.
 
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Diesels in general are much better at overtaking than petrols, due to a mountain of torque available at low RPM - no need to drop a few gears, just plant it and go.
 
gfmalan said:
Nope, I'll overtake with pulling a load. (Q7)

I went to Gerotec with my A6(Quattro), and came overall second out of 13 cars. So my Diesel isn't slow, and the bonus, it's not thirsty (in real life).
(Gerotec it was thirsty)

In the last 12 years owning various Audi's (all diesel) I only had 2 expensive problems. On my First A4 I had to replace a turbo and clutch on 240 000km, I bought that one secondhand. Cost me 22k to fix both.
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Sinbad said:
Diesels in general are much better at overtaking than petrols, due to a mountain of torque available at low RPM - no need to drop a few gears, just plant it and go.
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Yup, had a 3.0 TDI A4 on Killarney and it was mad fun and didn't have too much of a hard time catching the S4's either.

Obviously the S4 would still win overall, but it was much of a muchness.

And like you say there was no hunting of gears required...but it was also automatic.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Your manual also says you need to break it even properly even though it's been proven time and again that engines that are broken in hard last longer and push out more horsepower

Use your common sense "seat of the pants" and you'll know your car runs better/smoother if it has just that moment to settle before pulling off.

Gears go into position just that bit more smoothly. Engine idles just that little bit lower.

Your manual says a whole lot of things, but it explains none of them, because it applies to the lowest common denominator.

It's got pretty much nothing at all to do with your car and everything to do with the environment by means of saving fuel, preventing pollution and as as I said because it's unleaded.

The car manufacturers are all forced to put that in the manuals now, because especially in America where people aren't worried about theft they leave their cars idling for something like twenty minutes everyday.

It's just like all those recycling logos you see on everything you buy, and has the same motivations.

Has got next to nothing to do with your actual car being better or worse for it.

*****

And just to add fuel to the fire since you obviously believe the manual to be the be all and end all.

http://gomotorsatlanta.com/warming-up-your-car/

I'm advocating exactly that 30 secs to a minute, not waiting for the temp gauge to get up to normal temp. That would take 15 minutes and probably then still not be ready and yes that would **** up your car with carbon deposits.

But giving it just a bit of time to circulate all and get all the pumps whirring away is only going to do it well.

http://www.cheatsheet.com/automobil...arming-your-car-in-the-winter.html/?a=viewall

Before you jump with joy at point two, read it to the end. They say the same thing I'm saying but advocate an even longer period of 2-3 minutes.

http://patch.com/massachusetts/beaconhill/heres-why-you-shouldnt-idle-your-car-cold-mornings

See Americans even have remote start for this. It's a crazy problem in snow countries, thus the disclaimer in the manual.

Extended idling like they speak of is bad for your car, I completely agree with that. But a short moment for it to circulate oil before moving is good for it, which is the conversation at hand.
Click to expand...

I have an automatic. And by the way - nothing has been "proven" about driving a car being broken in "hard" lasts longer and has more HP. You can link stuff if you wish.

But tell us more about how this has all to do with Americans?

And I do not have a temp gauge...
 
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gfmalan said:
Nope, I'll overtake with pulling a load. (Q7)

I went to Gerotek with my A6(Quattro), and came overall second out of 13 cars. So my Diesel isn't slow, and the bonus, it's not thirsty (in real life).
(Gerotek it was thirsty)

In the last 12 years owning various Audi's (all diesel) I only had 2 expensive problems. On my First A4 I had to replace a turbo and clutch on 240 000km, I bought that one secondhand. Cost me 22k to fix both.
Click to expand...

Really? Care to back that comment up versus a petrol car of, say, the same price? Or maybe even a bit lower?
 
Splinter said:
Really? Care to back that comment up versus a petrol car of, say, the same price? Or maybe even a bit lower?
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I'm not so sure what you are asking?!

One of the cars was a BMW 330, there were Subaru's and AMG.
Then my Q can pull a load of 3500kg,
 
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gfmalan said:
I'm not so sure what you are asking?!

One of the cars was a BMW 330, there were Subaru's and AMG.
Then my Q can pull a load of 3500kg,
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Well, what are the exact specs of your A6(Quattro)? Because, from what I have seen online, you would have been creamed.
 
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