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ECU remapping
- Thread starter Dolby
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Dolby
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Very possible ... I know they've done a car for Volvo at some internation show as well. a tiwn turbo monster if I remember.
Intercooler http://www.elevatecars.com/c30/engine-performance/elevate-volvo-c30-t5-intercooler
Software http://www.elevatecars.com/c30/engine-performance/elevate-volvo-c30-t5-performance-software
Dolby
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That's it - on the initial page at http://www.elevatecars.com/ too
wikk3d88
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Dolby
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Evolve did this for Volvo too ...
http://www.caranddriver.com/news/car/06q4/evolve_volvo_c30_concept-auto_shows
Evolve stuffed an all-wheel-drive system underneath to better hook up 507-horsepower of twin sequentially turbocharged madness. Other choice details include exhaust pipes which exit the bodywork next to the rear taillights, and 15.2-inch rotors shrouded by 14-piston calipers which cosset more than half the rotor.
http://www.caranddriver.com/news/car/06q4/evolve_volvo_c30_concept-auto_shows
Evolve stuffed an all-wheel-drive system underneath to better hook up 507-horsepower of twin sequentially turbocharged madness. Other choice details include exhaust pipes which exit the bodywork next to the rear taillights, and 15.2-inch rotors shrouded by 14-piston calipers which cosset more than half the rotor.
Mr.Jax
Expert Member
Hi Dolby,
Just some things you really need to take into consideration. Coming from the Subaru tuning scene.... (so this comes from a subaru tuning point of view, gone though this twice
)
Ask the tuner what the fuel requirement will be for this setup. In my experience, you'll possibly need an octane booster of sorts. Getting those performance figures out of 95 RON is possibly on the risky side. (Possibly not, I don't know the volvo stuff).
Usually when remapping a turbo car, its sometimes a good idea to also change the exhaust system, especially the 'down pipe'. Essentially, removing all catalytic converters, they are very restrictive. Just ask the dude what about the exhaust system ? In my humble opinion, upping the boost without increasing the engine's ability to flow air (ie less restrictive exhaust), is stressing the engine a lot more (read exhaust gas temperature...read...nah nevermind...just gonna make u paranoid). Apart from the performance benefit, you'll also love the responsiveness of the car with the less restriction....turbo will spool up a lot faster and sooner...you'll love it!
Some other stuff (to add to what bboy already said)
- Ask the guy if you don't need a stronger fuel pump.
- If not, ask the guy how far the injectors will be pushed (from a duty cycle point of view). Pushing injectors too far (so that you can get more fuel for the more air your pushing in), can overheat them and kaboom engine (lean condition leading to detonation) Best practice reckons not more than 95%.
- Ask the dude what the target air/fuel ratio will be when on boost. Best practice is < 12:1. Typical is 11.2:1, safe is < 11:1
Now, some tuners might not like to answer you on some of those as they see it as 'propriety information'. If the dude answers you, then you know you're dealing with a pro. He will probably appreciate it when you ask those questions.
Pushing your turbo to 1.2 BAR is fine (even on the WRX subaru's). However do take note that your turbo is working a lot harder now (what...50% more?) and this will shorten the life span of it. You will probably note with this dude's tune that you will hit 1.2 BAR boost and it will quickly taper off to something like 0.6bar at redline. All depends on the type of turbo.
Apart from all my blabbing above, the most most most important bit to modding your car is: FUEL FUEL FUEL.
Drive it with proper fuel and it will last. As long as there's no know/detonation, it should be just fine (assuming the tuner knows his stuff ofcourse). Proper fuel = high octane fuel, e.g. > 95 RON.
Another thing to remember: your minimum fuel requirement might be 95, when traveling you might not get 95 at fuel stations which will place you in a risky situation. Been there, done it all
Please ask if you need more info, I might b able to help.
Just some things you really need to take into consideration. Coming from the Subaru tuning scene.... (so this comes from a subaru tuning point of view, gone though this twice
)Ask the tuner what the fuel requirement will be for this setup. In my experience, you'll possibly need an octane booster of sorts. Getting those performance figures out of 95 RON is possibly on the risky side. (Possibly not, I don't know the volvo stuff).
Usually when remapping a turbo car, its sometimes a good idea to also change the exhaust system, especially the 'down pipe'. Essentially, removing all catalytic converters, they are very restrictive. Just ask the dude what about the exhaust system ? In my humble opinion, upping the boost without increasing the engine's ability to flow air (ie less restrictive exhaust), is stressing the engine a lot more (read exhaust gas temperature...read...nah nevermind...just gonna make u paranoid). Apart from the performance benefit, you'll also love the responsiveness of the car with the less restriction....turbo will spool up a lot faster and sooner...you'll love it!
Some other stuff (to add to what bboy already said)
- Ask the guy if you don't need a stronger fuel pump.
- If not, ask the guy how far the injectors will be pushed (from a duty cycle point of view). Pushing injectors too far (so that you can get more fuel for the more air your pushing in), can overheat them and kaboom engine (lean condition leading to detonation) Best practice reckons not more than 95%.
- Ask the dude what the target air/fuel ratio will be when on boost. Best practice is < 12:1. Typical is 11.2:1, safe is < 11:1
Now, some tuners might not like to answer you on some of those as they see it as 'propriety information'. If the dude answers you, then you know you're dealing with a pro. He will probably appreciate it when you ask those questions.
Pushing your turbo to 1.2 BAR is fine (even on the WRX subaru's). However do take note that your turbo is working a lot harder now (what...50% more?) and this will shorten the life span of it. You will probably note with this dude's tune that you will hit 1.2 BAR boost and it will quickly taper off to something like 0.6bar at redline. All depends on the type of turbo.
Apart from all my blabbing above, the most most most important bit to modding your car is: FUEL FUEL FUEL.
Drive it with proper fuel and it will last. As long as there's no know/detonation, it should be just fine (assuming the tuner knows his stuff ofcourse). Proper fuel = high octane fuel, e.g. > 95 RON.
Another thing to remember: your minimum fuel requirement might be 95, when traveling you might not get 95 at fuel stations which will place you in a risky situation. Been there, done it all
Please ask if you need more info, I might b able to help.
Dolby
Honorary Master
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2005
- Messages
- 39,123
- Reaction score
- 6,138
Hi Dolby,
Just some things you really need to take into consideration. Coming from the Subaru tuning scene.... (so this comes from a subaru tuning point of view, gone though this twice
Ask the tuner what the fuel requirement will be for this setup. In my experience, you'll possibly need an octane booster of sorts. Getting those performance figures out of 95 RON is possibly on the risky side. (Possibly not, I don't know the volvo stuff).
Usually when remapping a turbo car, its sometimes a good idea to also change the exhaust system, especially the 'down pipe'. Essentially, removing all catalytic converters, they are very restrictive. Just ask the dude what about the exhaust system ? In my humble opinion, upping the boost without increasing the engine's ability to flow air (ie less restrictive exhaust), is stressing the engine a lot more (read exhaust gas temperature...read...nah nevermind...just gonna make u paranoid). Apart from the performance benefit, you'll also love the responsiveness of the car with the less restriction....turbo will spool up a lot faster and sooner...you'll love it!
Some other stuff (to add to what bboy already said)
- Ask the guy if you don't need a stronger fuel pump.
- If not, ask the guy how far the injectors will be pushed (from a duty cycle point of view). Pushing injectors too far (so that you can get more fuel for the more air your pushing in), can overheat them and kaboom engine (lean condition leading to detonation) Best practice reckons not more than 95%.
- Ask the dude what the target air/fuel ratio will be when on boost. Best practice is < 12:1. Typical is 11.2:1, safe is < 11:1
Now, some tuners might not like to answer you on some of those as they see it as 'propriety information'. If the dude answers you, then you know you're dealing with a pro. He will probably appreciate it when you ask those questions.
Pushing your turbo to 1.2 BAR is fine (even on the WRX subaru's). However do take note that your turbo is working a lot harder now (what...50% more?) and this will shorten the life span of it. You will probably note with this dude's tune that you will hit 1.2 BAR boost and it will quickly taper off to something like 0.6bar at redline. All depends on the type of turbo.
Apart from all my blabbing above, the most most most important bit to modding your car is: FUEL FUEL FUEL.
Drive it with proper fuel and it will last. As long as there's no know/detonation, it should be just fine (assuming the tuner knows his stuff ofcourse). Proper fuel = high octane fuel, e.g. > 95 RON.
Another thing to remember: your minimum fuel requirement might be 95, when traveling you might not get 95 at fuel stations which will place you in a risky situation. Been there, done it all
Please ask if you need more info, I might b able to help.
Thanks for that!
Very informative and logical! I'll chat to him ...
Agreed with Mr Jax...he knows lol I don't - I'm just agreeing with whatever sounds correct - however, some tuners make provision for the poor feul quality, i.e FRC and GIAC.or just drive around with an octane Booster...they go up to 120 now I see!
I'm using the BSR tuning kit (www.bsr.se), and they recommend Octane 98 unleaded. If using 95 they say you must check that the car allows it's use, and using 95 will result in increased fuel consumption and reduced performance.
Mr.Jax
Expert Member
Which brand is better then the other is a highly debated subject. No proff exists that the one is better than the other, however, some people will swear by it that their brand is better etc...
Regarding our fuel octane: Confusion sometimes comes in when ppl compare it to US spec fuel.
Us spec fuel's octane number is (RON+MON) / 2 whereas our fuel is rated in RON only, so a 91 US octane fule is close to 95 IIRC.
RON = research octane number, MON = motor octane number. Two different ways of measuring a fuel's resistence to knock (what octane means)
MON always being a much lower number, e.g. our SA 95 fuel's MON is probably 87.
What you say in your previous post also holds true. Tuners need to 'pull back on timing and boost' as well as 'enrich the fuel mixture' in order to run your turbo car on plain 95, resulting in less performance and worse fuel consumption.
(tip: with the correct supporting mods, you can get LOADS of power by just using plain 95, but thats a different subject alltogether
)Mr.Jax
Expert Member
All brands get petrol/feul from SASOL depot - supplies 20somthing % of the country's feul supply. You have others but SASOL is biggest. The thing is this, as stated by people working there and actually doing the deliveries...
All unleaded and LRP and 95 and 93 feul is the same when it gets dumped into the tankers...Sasol will add its blen, Caltex will add aparent techron, Shell will add aparent V Power etc etc...this is added afterwards by said brand...
All unleaded and LRP and 95 and 93 feul is the same when it gets dumped into the tankers...Sasol will add its blen, Caltex will add aparent techron, Shell will add aparent V Power etc etc...this is added afterwards by said brand...
Mr.Jax
Expert Member
EU 98 Octane would be 98 RON in SA
Just the yanks that like to be otherwise.
Cool, though I wish we had 98 here! I feel sorry for my poor car.