Mike Hoxbig
Honorary Master
Everyone getting aircons now should have this done first or it'll be wasteful. The compressor will pretty much be running all the time without insulation...
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If your ceilings are still good I would rather go with the isotherm. It has a better R rating.Has anyone used Isoboard?
I'm thinking of going this route, maybe with a retrofit installation onto the existing ceiling boards.
The majority of our roof is flat, "sink dak" and one or two bedrooms have slanted roof tile roofs (also no entrance points into the ceiling), with only about a foot between the roof and the ceiling, and no manhole covers or entrances, since almost nothing or no one will fit there.
Everyone getting aircons now should have this done first or it'll be wasteful. The compressor will pretty much be running all the time without insulation...
Good plan. I think the insulation will be good enoughI was close to pulling the trigger on a/c last summer but I'm not sure we need it anymore. Will pay for itself if insulation saves the whole a/c installation nevermind the operating costs.
Thing is it brings you instant relief when you step into the house from outside. Especially during weather extremes. It's like you can quench your thirst with warm tap water, but nothing beats a cold coke/beer...I was close to pulling the trigger on a/c last summer but I'm not sure we need it anymore. Will pay for itself if insulation saves the whole a/c installation nevermind the operating costs.
The problem is I don't know how they will get into the roof structure to lay down or spray that stuff.If your ceilings are still good I would rather go with the isotherm. It has a better R rating.
The Isoboard also expands and contracts a lot needing expansion grooves and you will also lose ceiling height.
You also get insulation they spray in with a hose that may work.
Normally they lift the tiles to gain access. If I did it again I'd do isotherm rolls though.The problem is I don't know how they will get into the roof structure to lay down or spray that stuff.
I have a zink aluminum flat roof in the garage.I’ve been wondering if these would make any difference to my garage which of course has no ceiling or insulation of any kind.
cost?We did a full ceiling clean and vacuum, then 150mm of cellulose, the result is huge.
I have a zink aluminum flat roof in the garage.
The garage used to easily be 10 degrees Celsius hotter compared to ambient temperatures and if it is warm for a couple of days In a row this can spike to 15 degrees Celsius. And it did not cool down during the evenings.
I recently installed Airolight (135mm) and 100mm isoboard. The garage temperature it matches ambient temperatures.
The LFP batteries have not gottenabove 25 degrees (cell temperature) this summer.
Total cost was R 30k so not cheap. I do have a large garage at 10m by 6.5m
Put the Airolight between the roof rafters just below the zink aluminum roof and the isoboard just below that, also between the roof rafters. So I suppose you can call it a ceiling.View attachment 1779513
Put the Airolight between the roof rafters just below the zink aluminum roof and the isoboard just below that, also between the roof rafters. So I suppose you can call it a ceiling.View attachment 1779520
Rafters is wood, hammered in a frame using 5x5 wood trusses. Isoboard was fixed to the trusses using the clips supplied with the isoboard.Planning to do something similar. What did you secure the isoboard to? I have steel rafters and not much height so would like to somehow hang the board flush with them.


Hi all,
Looking at putting in some insulation into our home soon, but one thing I see about Isotherm (which I like as it's polyester-based) is that it's not SABS approved.
I'm in the roof at least once or twice a month, so something that doesn't make me itch would be beneficial.Why not just get Aerolite? It's SABS-approved and better value afaict. If you're worried about the itch it's not too bad. You only handle it once and you need some PPE anyway up there (dust mask and gloves).