I've been there about 5 times between 2007 and 2010. Didn't really know what to expect the first time I went, but was surprised by the place. Its very clean, not a piece of paper on the street, plastic bags are illegal, there is a very prominent police presence around the city, everything is generally very safe. The government is pretty strict and most people follow the laws. I remember while i was there once, the president announced on TV that barbed wire on fences was banned and the next day i saw people taking them down.
There is lots of activity on the streets during the day and getting around is a bit scary as they pretty much have their own rules on the road. I think they have an understanding amongst them, as my taxi driver would drive on the oncoming traffic lane if the road was congested and the oncoming cars would make space to pass. Nearly had a heart attack the first time it happened but it seems to be how they do things. There are also Bike taxis but i was never brave enough to take one.
There is a big French influence so you will find alot of French Inspired restaurants around. It can be quite an expensive place though as most of the better hotels and restaurants charge in US$.
When you are there make sure to visit the Genocide Museum.