Full synthetic

lancon

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Evening petrol heads.
Just a quick question.
Can i use full synthegic oil in a VW polo classic 2.0 2005 model and whats the advantages / disadvantages?

Tx
 
You certainly can...but unless you know exactly what's in there now I would say you replace all of it and not just top it up. Including oil filter.

You'll more than likely find its running fully synthetic if serviced by the dealer.

Ultimately it should help your engine last longer and might see a small boost in fuel economy.

However the main point of fancy oil these days is to extend the service intervals. Better oil doesn't break down so quickly and therefore cars can be serviced at longer intervals.

Check what the code is in your manual and get the equivalent with the same code and you are good to go.
 
i run 5w40 Fully synthetic in my 99" model Hyudai accent. As SauRoNZA has said on the next service change all the oil and oil filter when making the change.
 
It due for a service so will be replacing the oil and everything else that needs replacing.
Is there a big difference in service intervals when going synthetic??

And as always thanks for the advice gentleman.
Much appreciated.
 
It due for a service so will be replacing the oil and everything else that needs replacing.
Is there a big difference in service intervals when going synthetic??

And as always thanks for the advice gentleman.
Much appreciated.

Synthetic should give you longer service intervals and better protection - go for it!
 
My 2c:

Use the oil recommended by the manual. They recommend various types, I would go with one of the better kinds the manual recommends.

Increase change interval to 6 months if you feel worried about engine life (assuming you don't exceed service interval KMs in less than 6 months... that would be scary).
 
Synthetic oils will typically allow you to go about twice as long between oil changes. The big downside of using them is that these timelines won't correspond with your service book and your service history won't look right. Also, you need to remember that you may need to do the other fluids and checks sooner than the life of the oil - brake fluid needs to be done every 2 years at most, etc.

There are a lot of myths about synthetic oils from the early years where they weren't as good as they are now, but there really shouldn't be any issues.
You may get slightly better fuel economy, but don't bank on it.
 
I've read a study (done in the UK, but buggered if I can find a link to it) where they tested fully synthetic oil (Mobil One) at very high mileages. The tests were done by measuring the amount of wear by the amount of metal in the oil, and they found that you could easily go to 60 000km without increasing the wear on the engine, as long as you topped up with the same oil, and changed the oil filter at the normal time (I think 30 000km in that case).

Most people who use fully synthetic don't try to get extra mileage between services, but do it to increase the level of protection at normal service intervals.
 
It due for a service so will be replacing the oil and everything else that needs replacing.
Is there a big difference in service intervals when going synthetic??

And as always thanks for the advice gentleman.
Much appreciated.

Put it this way...I wouldn't change my service intervals because I'm running synthetic.

But the logic is that it breaks down more slowly (last longer) and therefore your engine is protected for longer.

Some manufacturers now earn a "service when I tell you to service" option in stead of the normally 15k/20k intervals and those are running fully synthetic to manage that.
 
My 2c:

Use the oil recommended by the manual. They recommend various types, I would go with one of the better kinds the manual recommends.

Increase change interval to 6 months if you feel worried about engine life (assuming you don't exceed service interval KMs in less than 6 months... that would be scary).

Generally they don't really recommend various types in the manual, but rather just particular viscosity and temperate grade for the region where the car was sold.

The "type" would therefore include any variety of mineral, semi-synth or fully synthetic.

I'm of the opinion that fully synthetic also takes much longer to burn away, which means I have one topup of oil between service intervals where on mineral or semi-synth I need to topup more often.
 
Generally they don't really recommend various types in the manual, but rather just particular viscosity and temperate grade for the region where the car was sold.

The "type" would therefore include any variety of mineral, semi-synth or fully synthetic.

I'm of the opinion that fully synthetic also takes much longer to burn away, which means I have one topup of oil between service intervals where on mineral or semi-synth I need to topup more often.

Manufacturers normally have various spec sheets for different engines - eg, VW has 504.00 for TFSI engines, 505.01 or 507.00 for TDIs. Merc has 229.5 for their M112 engine, etc
Make sure the oil you use conforms to the correct spec - certified by the manufacturer.

eg:
http://www.shell.com/zaf/products-s...x-range/helix-fully-synthetic/ultra-5w40.html
Specifications: API SN/CF; ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4; BMW LL-01; MB approval 229.5, 226.5; VW 502.00/505.00; Porsche A40; Renault RN0700, RN0710; PSA B71 2296, Ferrari. Meets the requirements of Fiat 9.55535-Z2 and Chrysler MS-107
 
Just be careful when changing to synthetic oil that your seals don't start to leak. Also, be sure that your sump is free of any sludge as fully synthetic can pick that up and move it through out the engine.
 
Just be careful when changing to synthetic oil that your seals don't start to leak. Also, be sure that your sump is free of any sludge as fully synthetic can pick that up and move it through out the engine.

Probably not a bad idea to do an engine flush with the oil change...
 
Thinking ill go the engine flush then full synth but keep to the sheduled service intervals route. That way fuel and airfilter and all the rest will get their usual treatment. Tx gents
 
Thinking ill go the engine flush then full synth but keep to the sheduled service intervals route. That way fuel and airfilter and all the rest will get their usual treatment. Tx gents

Go to castrols website and select the oil chooser link, input your car and buy that exact oil.
 
And as a matter of interest also phone the VW agents for their oil and oil filter prices. I found it to be cheaper than many of the other full synthetic oils. I recently paid around R80/l and bought 5 bottles from the agents whereas something like Shell Helix full synthetic was R499 from Midas.
 
Most people who use fully synthetic don't try to get extra mileage between services, but do it to increase the level of protection at normal service intervals.
That's what I did with my previous car.
 
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