Geyser Not Heating up

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zerak

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Good day all.

I recently installed my geyser upright. When I switch on the power the element heats up for a short while and then stops heating up. I assume this is due to the element/thermostat not finding any water in the top of the geyser and that may be the water isn't filling right up to the top.

My water pressure is not great but it is manageable and I'm also not sure if this may be the cause of the geyser not filling up right to the top.

Is there perhaps anyone that has any idea how to fix this or what the problem may be.

Any assistance will be much appreciated.

1000138538.jpg1000138033.jpg
 
That looks like an old geyser. 4kw?

Geysers do pack up.

Maybe it was coincidental to you moving it from horizontal to vertical.
 
are you trying your best to kill the people in the house? May I ask your eyes to wander over to the electrical wire attached to that fine conductor of electricity, said copper pipe đź‘€ that wire is also illegal to run outside.

once you've sorted the wire out, try replace the element first... work from there, its a quick change and inexpensive.
 
Wrath of Khan MD said:
are you trying your best to kill the people in the house? May I ask your eyes to wander over to the electrical wire attached to that fine conductor of electricity, said copper pipe đź‘€ that wire is also illegal to run outside.

once you've sorted the wire out, try replace the element first... work from there, its a quick change and inexpensive.
Click to expand...
Thanks will move the wire.
 
rh1 said:
That looks like an old geyser. 4kw?

Geysers do pack up.

Maybe it was coincidental to you moving it from horizontal to vertical.
Click to expand...
Is perhaps a possibility. Will look into it.
 
Wrath of Khan MD said:
are you trying your best to kill the people in the house? May I ask your eyes to wander over to the electrical wire attached to that fine conductor of electricity, said copper pipe đź‘€ that wire is also illegal to run outside.

once you've sorted the wire out, try replace the element first... work from there, its a quick change and inexpensive.
Click to expand...
Missed that.

@zerak while you sorting that out, install an isolator as well.
 
Umzimbeet said:
Should the element not be at the bottomView attachment 1802376
Click to expand...
Im thinking the same. But the "legs" of the geyser is on the opposite side of the element. Therefor the reason for installing this way around. And the guide refers to it being floor mounted in which case you wont have access to the thermostat... 🤦🏻 I dont know.
 
zerak said:
Thanks will move the wire.
Click to expand...
Move the wire

Then, notice the water fliw directlion, in at the top, our on the bottom, it'll be full air, needs to be bled.

Assuming there is another pressure relief valve not visible in the photo, if not, and it boils it won't relief on the inflow or on the relief valve all the way up on the out, which wont go well.
 
zerak said:
Good day all.

I recently installed my geyser upright. When I switch on the power the element heats up for a short while and then stops heating up. I assume this is due to the element/thermostat not finding any water in the top of the geyser and that may be the water isn't filling right up to the top.

My water pressure is not great but it is manageable and I'm also not sure if this may be the cause of the geyser not filling up right to the top.

Is there perhaps anyone that has any idea how to fix this or what the problem may be.

Any assistance will be much appreciated.

View attachment 1802370View attachment 1802371
Click to expand...

Woah.

I am terrible at DIY but even I would not leave wiring for a high-draw appliance looking like that.

Main culprits here are either element (quick fix) or thermostat (bit more expensive but not much). Sometimes it can be both. I keep old working parts to test in my new geysers.
 
Last edited:
Kwikot says 200l geyser can be wall mounted if the wall is good for it. Otherwise a floor stand is needed.

Installation​

  • The Kwikot Superline 400 Dual must be installed in compliance with SANS 10254 Installation and Maintenance of Electric Storage Water Heaters, with a Temperature & Pressure Valve (Safety Valve), Drain Cock (both supplied with the water heater), Pressure Control Valve, Drip Tray and Vacuum Breakers. The Kwikot Superline 400 Dual water heater is IPX4 rated.
  • The 50lt, 100lt and 200lt can be installed horizontally on the floor (in the roof) and wall mounted vertically or horizontally left hand or horizontally right hand. NB. The maximum wall mount geyser capacity is 200 litres, providing that the reliability and strength of the wall is determined beforehand by a qualified construction person.
  • In a horizontal wall mounting installation, the brackets (feet) need to be moved by 90Ëš to the alternative holes in the outer casement. In a vertical wall mounting installation, the brackets (feet) are not moved to the alternative holes in the outer casement.
  • The following minimum installation clearance must be allowed for on each side in the event of having to remove the element, thermostat or the anode: 50lt – 400mm, 100lt – 600mm, 200lt – 1000mm and 250lt – 1200mm.
 
Looks like the thermostat is on top.

Heat rises, so it will cut off when it receaches the set temperature, so is suspect that only a part of the water gets heated. Also unsure about your inlet and out pipes, could be making that problem worse.
 
OP did you do this all yourself? Because it looks like a complete failure to read the manual.

If a professional did it I would be seriously concerned.
 
1) remove geyser
2) remove wire
3) turn the geyser around (it's upside down)
4) redo all copper pipes because of flip
5) install correct wire to isolator
6) turn on and enjoy hot water

apologies I completely missed the upside down part...

I know you're screaming right now :X3:
 
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