Geyser Plug in Timer

RedViking

RedViking

Nord of the South
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The geyser has a 3 point plug in the roof going into a plug with a switch that goes to the DB. I'm renting and owner does not want to install a timer.

The geyser is fairly new and your standard 150L size. Will get in the roof some time to check if there are any details on it.

I have this timer and these are the specs, is it something I can potentially use?

If not, any other plug in solutions. Rewiring is not an option. Must be "plug and play"

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P.S. This is not a thread to discuss the use of timers and the efficiency of the geyser.
 
We rented a place where the second bathroom's geyser was plugged into a timer like this - never had an issue.
 
don't think that's legal... a geyser has to be hardwired into an isolator (like an oven)

PS: I very much doubt turning the geyser on and off is going to save any money, maybe someone who has a geyser timer can confirm if they've actually saved anything...
 
Wrath of Khan MD said:
don't think that's legal... a geyser has to be hardwired into an isolator (like an oven)

PS: I very much doubt turning the geyser on and off is going to save any money, maybe someone who has a geyser timer can confirm if they've actually saved anything...
Click to expand...
True; SANS regs:

Clause 6.16.1 – Fixed Appliances and Disconnecting Device​


“6.16.1.2 The power supply to every fixed appliance, except luminaires, shall be supplied through
  1. a disconnecting device that disconnects both live conductors in a single-phase supply and all phase conductors in a multiphase supply, or
  2. a socket‑outlet that is directly accessible at all times that any person is exposed to such appliance while the supply is on. In the case of a remotely installed appliance, the position of the disconnecting device shall be indicated by means of a notice in close proximity to or on the appliance.”
Click to expand...
 
Well, The owner will have to install the timer ... cause he will have to come out and fix the illegal 3 point plug ... problem solved.

Yes, that timer will work as that 150L should have a 2000W element as standard.
 
geezer said:
What about something like this?
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Click to expand...
Smart will help long term and that is fairly affordable. Then I don't have to get up a ladder to make changes. But thought ill make use of what I already have.
 
Last edited:
RedViking said:
The geyser has a 3 point plug
Click to expand...

RedViking said:
I have this timer and these are the specs, is it something I can potentially use?
Click to expand...
You are unlikely to save any meaningful money, unless the geyser thermostat is faulty and keeping the geyser switched on, or you continually draw water from the geyser.

I would be careful with adding another non-compliant connection in the mix. 3 Point plug connections are not always a good electrical connection and tend to heat up when getting to max current.

If you use the timer to have the geyser off for long times, then have it switch on it will possibly have a high current load for longer than if the thermostat does all the switching. (meaning more heat, more fire risk).

BTW, some 150L geysers have 3000W elements, and even if you see a spec on the side of the geyser you still do not know if the element was replaced with a 4000W element
 
Wrath of Khan MD said:
don't think that's legal... a geyser has to be hardwired into an isolator (like an oven)

PS: I very much doubt turning the geyser on and off is going to save any money, maybe someone who has a geyser timer can confirm if they've actually saved anything...
Click to expand...
It does, mainly as it prevents unnessecary reheating of water. A geyser is designed to retain heat.

So we switch on the geyser twice a day.

If I had to do it over, I would buy a wifi timer.
 
RedViking said:
That will require rewiring which is not an option. Unless you mean I make my own plug where the geyser plugs into.
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No rewiring needed for this timer, it’s standard din rail, so you just replace the current isolater switch on the DB board with this, pretty simple DIY.

I would also seriously recommend at least bringing the illegal connection to your landlords attention. It could be a potential insurance issue for him down the line, and is a definite risk to you and your family/belongings
 
Zellephant said:
No rewiring needed for this timer, it’s standard din rail, so you just replace the current isolater switch on the DB board with this, pretty simple DIY.

I would also seriously recommend at least bringing the illegal connection to your landlords attention. It could be a potential insurance issue for him down the line, and is a definite risk to you and your family/belongings
Click to expand...
My landlord doesn't care. They removed the stove and the wires are just hanging there. There are other more concerning issues with the electricity. The breakers needs to be replaced and often trip, including the breaker outside.

Cheapskates but the rent is reasonable.
 
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