Geyser Plug in Timer

RedViking said:
My landlord doesn't care. They removed the stove and the wires are just hanging there. There are other more concerning issues with the electricity.

Cheapskates but the rent is reasonable.
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Exposed wires in the kitchen are a problem for sure, but ten to one you notice something before there’s a serious issue.

An illegally connected hot plug hidden in the roof is a different story. But I guess we all have the right to choose our own risk.
 
RedViking said:
Not gonna happen.



Cool, thanks!
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My 150l is 3000W but it should still work fine.

Regarding the whole plug socket isolater, if its already running off a plug socket, the one would assume that they have a dedicated breaker already. If its a standard plug circuit then likely its a 2000W geyser otherwise you'd be tripping that circuit the whole time as soon as anything ran on it and the geyser.
 
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Kosmik said:
My 150l is 3000W but it should still work fine.

Regarding the whole plug socket isolater, if its already running off a plug socket, the one would assume that they have a dedicated breaker already. If its a standard plug circuit then likely its a 2000W geyser otherwise you'd be tripping that circuit the whole time as soon as anything ran on it and the geyser.
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Yes there is a dedicated 20A breaker for that plug just for the geyser. I guess it's just to make replacing the geyser easier.
 
No you can't use that timer. Although it's rated for the current, it's not rated for the operating temperature that you'll have in your roof in summer. It'll work for a while, then who knows, if you're lucky it fails cleanly, if you're not it starts a fire.

Remove the plug and socket and hard-wire the geyser to an isolator switch instead. Then put a timer in your DB. Electronics won't survive in the roof.

Do it yourself if necessary. Maybe your landlord doesn't mind a fire starting in the roof, but you and your family probably will.
 
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Tomtomtom said:
No you can't use that timer. Although it's rated for the current, it's not rated for the operating temperature that you'll have in your roof in summer. It'll work for a while, then who knows, if you're lucky it fails cleanly, if you're not it starts a fire.

Remove the plug and hard-wire the geyser to an isolator switch. Then put a timer in your DB. Electronics won't survive in the roof.

Do it yourself if necessary. Maybe your landlord doesn't mind a fire starting in the roof, but you and your family probably will.
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Valid points!
 
RedViking said:
I guess it's just to make replacing the geyser easier.
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I don't understand this at all. Geysers don't come with plugs. It takes no more effort to screw the L and N wires into the L and N terminals on the isolator, than it does to screw them into a plug top.

And then you should have an earth strap and wire you can just reuse.

Speaking of which, what's the earth situation on your setup?
 
Tomtomtom said:
I don't understand this at all. Geysers don't come with plugs. It takes no more effort to screw the L and N wires into the L and N terminals on the isolator, than it does to screw them into the L and N of a plug top.

And then you should have an earth strap and wire you can just reuse.

Speaking of which what's the earth situation on your setup?
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I'm not sure.
 
Give it a go, in the light of the situation with the landlord.
Maybe feel/check it for overheating after a cycle. If it gets hot-ish, program it for cooler times of the day like early mornings.
 
Wrath of Khan MD said:
don't think that's legal... a geyser has to be hardwired into an isolator (like an oven)

PS: I very much doubt turning the geyser on and off is going to save any money, maybe someone who has a geyser timer can confirm if they've actually saved anything...
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The saving comes from compromise on temp often not realising it

There can be a tiny saving on heat losses but probably so tiny not worth the effort

compromise on temp brings bacteria risks
 
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