Guidance for extended backup, please?

renier8

renier8

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Hello.
I bought an Ecoriver pro thing. It was okay-ish when I got it. Got about 3 hours standby time (just the tv and laptop on), which was still a bit shy considering the price. But now something did go wrong with the Gadget after about 3 months. And I see other people have experienced the same thing. The standby time now is between 1 and 2 hours. So I will have to return it. But my question is, what can I get that will give me more standby time? I don't care about powering anything else besides the TV and laptop. So it's not about the output power for me, but getting the longest backup/standby time. In the R10 000 price bracket.


Thank you
Renier
 
You need to pay close attention to the watt hour (WH) ratings on these devices.. this tells you the capacity it has and you can then calculate the capacity you need for the TV and the laptop..

To oversimplify, if your TV and laptop together draw 100watts an hour, you would need a minimum of 250WH device to power it through 2.5 hours of loadshedding.. however, you should avoid completely discharging the device, so you should ideally get something that has a minimum of 30%(there are losses and the device's power requirements), ideally 50%, more WH capacity than you need..

Get a killawat device from geewizz to measure the power draw for your TV and laptop, multiply that by the backup hours you need and you have the WH capacity you require and can then buy something appropriate based on actual data..

It sounds like you might have the ecoflow river 2, which has 256WH capacity and you have been discharging it close to zero and now the batteries are shot and why it does not last as long..
 
Cool - thank you for that. I will shop around a bit.
 
renier8 said:
I honestly don't know much about this. So considering that a flat screen TV and the laptop will be running at the same time, roughly 100watts per hour. And I want a standby time of minimum five hours, will a Kilowatt device do the job?
And can it be any type/brand?
Click to expand...
Please stop using the term "standby time" because it's completely confusing the issue.

Something that is on standby is powered off and not actively consuming power. You want to actively use devices.

So if you want to power something for 5 hours and it uses 100W then you will need 0.5 kWh of battery.

Something like this with a 1kWh battery will run your 100W for 10 hours.

You need to overcompensate, that Makro thing nobody has ever heard of will just barely make 5 hours if you stick to an exact 100W and that's without considering battery degradation or depth of discharge limits.

Good rule is double-up on what you think you need.

You need 500W of battery for do 100W for 5 hours, so get a 1kWh battery.

Also don't plug your laptop into the thing...that's silly. It has it's own battery.

What TV are you running?
 
renier8 said:
I honestly don't know much about this. So considering that a flat screen TV and the laptop will be running at the same time, roughly 100watts per hour. And I want a standby time of minimum five hours, will a Kilowatt device do the job?
And can it be any type/brand?
Click to expand...

This will run your TV (or whatever is plugged in, consuming 100Wh) for roughly 10hrs. The battery will need to be replaced at some point - they say 1200 cycles - which means after recharging it that meany times (roughly, if drained flat) - you need to replace batteries.

Also, standby time, mean a device that has power, but is switched off.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Please stop using the term "standby time" because it's completely confusing the issue.

Something that is on standby is powered off and not actively consuming power. You want to actively use devices.

So if you want to power something for 5 hours and it uses 100W then you will need 0.5 kWh of battery.

Something like this with a 1kWh battery will run your 100W for 10 hours.

You need to overcompensate, that Makro thing nobody has ever heard of will just barely make 5 hours if you stick to an exact 100W and that's without considering battery degradation or depth of discharge limits.

Good rule is double-up on what you think you need.

You need 500W of battery for do 100W for 5 hours, so get a 1kWh battery.

Also don't plug your laptop into the thing...that's silly. It has it's own battery.

What TV are you running?
Click to expand...
Thanks. Shows you how little I know. Don't even get the terminology right.
 
Priapus said:
This will run your TV (or whatever is plugged in, consuming 100Wh) for roughly 10hrs. The battery will need to be replaced at some point - they say 1200 cycles - which means after recharging it that meany times (roughly, if drained flat) - you need to replace batteries.

Also, standby time, mean a device that has power, but is switched off.
Click to expand...
Am I missing the memo here? That link and the name of the product suggest it's 555 Wh.

Which means it will do 100W for 5.55 hours.
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That will give you 5 hours easy, rather go a little over then under as you've learnt.
 
Lupus said:
Depends on the modern TV :). My OLED can shoot up to 300w by itself, my ULED can go up to 200w.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

And as much as I'm not a fan then it's worth looking at using the Energy Saver stuff or altering the brightness, maybe even making a Load Shedding "profile" to switch to.
 
SauRoNZA said:
I mean it could be the case, but same reason I asked the model as best to be sure.

Don't see why you would plug in your laptop when it has it's own battery.
Click to expand...
Well normally laptops that needs to be kept on power consume a lot of power and/or the battery is shot, thus it would not need just top up from your inverter.
 
Lupus said:
Depends on the modern TV :). My OLED can shoot up to 300w by itself, my ULED can go up to 200w.
Click to expand...

Yeah screen size depending of course. 65 would use more than 55 for example.
 
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