Home Automation - Smartkit

riscbroker

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Sep 29, 2006
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1,847
Ok, I have to ask for help with this one before I let the magic smoke escape.

The below diagram is a 24V circuit that controls a motorized ball valve, I do not have any manuals and the only thing I could find for this device is the diagram. What I have read so far is that the 3 wire model uses the 3rd wire to close the valve once the switch is opened.

How do you guys read this diagram and how would you approach the automation part ?

View attachment 749833

Edit: is it as easy as using a Sonoff SV and with red and green wired to positive and black to ground

Edit2: still using Sonoff SV but red is connect directly to 24v source positive on Sonoff input side, green is connected to positive on SV output and black to ground on Sonoff output
Watching with interest, let us know the outcome please. Also, which valve did you end up getting?
 
Last edited:

jvrs

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Apr 8, 2013
Messages
411
It seems to me you need only automate the SW part of it and everything else remains as is.

So basically yes an Sonoff SV modified to be a dry contact will do exactly that for you just like I setup for my gate and garage door.

Cool thanks for helping, I appreciate it a lot.
Just checking something, the dry contact basically makes the SV become a relay trigger ie. garage doors, gates etc

In my scenario I need to power the valve as well so I assume I would need to use it in its out of box state, +- input and +- on output, SV can run 5-24v and the valve 18-24v.

When the SV relay triggers to on the Valve controller will run and when it finished its open/closed function it will cut the power on its own board and wait for the switch to go off again.
 

jvrs

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Apr 8, 2013
Messages
411
Watching with interest, let us know the outcome please. Also, which valve did you end up getting?
@riscbroker

I will update as I go, need to get a SV first. The Valves are KLD20S with the BD3 wiring pattern.

To give you the whole picture, this is to change between my two hot water systems in my house.

Solar geyser (No Element) and Gas geyser, they both feed my house with hot water depending on the solar geyser temp (geyserwise), if its not hot enough at the end of the day I switch to gas, this is done by two normal ball valves currently, close one open the other and vice versa.

I have two of these motorized valves and run them from the same SV but the switch wires will be opposite so the one opens and the other closes.

For now I will just changeover myself, but would eventually like to automate the temperature part - (if below x temp at 18:00 switch to solar) etc etc
 

SauRoNZA

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Jul 6, 2010
Messages
34,882
Cool thanks for helping, I appreciate it a lot.
Just checking something, the dry contact basically makes the SV become a relay trigger ie. garage doors, gates etc

In my scenario I need to power the valve as well so I assume I would need to use it in its out of box state, +- input and +- on output, SV can run 5-24v and the valve 18-24v.

When the SV relay triggers to on the Valve controller will run and when it finished its open/closed function it will cut the power on its own board and wait for the switch to go off again.
Oh yes if you need it to actually pass power then you would use it in the out of the box configuration.
 

spiff

Expert Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
4,909
update:

setup my new Wyze door sensors on Saturday.

plug the usb bridge into the camera
750133

installed motion sensor
750137

installed these little door sensors
750141

not to happy with the sticky foam mounting pads

750145

linked everything to each other

750155


replaced flat battery in 1 door sensor
750157

setup some rules
750161

all in all it works quite well, does what it supposed to do. For a novice DIY system it's good enough.
I will glue the door sensors on with some more permanent when I get back home.
 

mtlost

Active Member
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Dec 9, 2007
Messages
78
Wait wait wait.

So you can only use Home Assistant with Alexa if you have a paid for Cloud account or go through a seemingly **** load of effort to make it work only half as well.

Dead in the water then.
It's worth that $5 plus you support development of Home Assistant.
 

phaktza

Executive Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2008
Messages
7,716
They were discontinued a year ago, so they're no around I'm afraid.

Edit: I'm testing a system with the RE5V1C and DW1/Bridge this weekend.
Ok haven't been able to get a bridge and DW1 out the warehouse yet. Hopefully once our sales are completed they'll ship.

But the installation of the RE5V1C was simple, simple and it's solid.
 

skefda

Active Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
95
Man this is something I'd like to do too. My alarm is IDS 805 (sure it's ancient too). Let us know how it goes.
So it didn't quite work how I wanted to. After studying the LED's on the board when arming and disarming, they don't illuminate on/off based on status. :cautious:
For the time being I've just wired the SV relay to the arm/disarm terminals on the board so I can remotely arm/disarm.
I'll have to try figure out if there is any other way of getting the status back from the system which I can use in HA. Maybe a phone call to my alarm company is worth a try. :unsure:
 

SauRoNZA

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Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
34,882
So it didn't quite work how I wanted to. After studying the LED's on the board when arming and disarming, they don't illuminate on/off based on status. :cautious:
For the time being I've just wired the SV relay to the arm/disarm terminals on the board so I can remotely arm/disarm.
I'll have to try figure out if there is any other way of getting the status back from the system which I can use in HA. Maybe a phone call to my alarm company is worth a try. :unsure:
Is there a PGM?

That’s how I got it out.

There must be something that outputs the status to their radio after all.
 

skefda

Active Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
95
Is there a PGM?

That’s how I got it out.

There must be something that outputs the status to their radio after all.
There are two according to the manual. But only 1 is programmable with the version I have. Do you mind explaining in detail what you did?

TIA
 

SauRoNZA

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Messages
34,882
There are two according to the manual. But only 1 is programmable with the version I have. Do you mind explaining in detail what you did?

TIA
I had two as well and one was unused so could easily enough set it up to feed into GPIO on the the SV.

I’m wondering if something like the siren beeping during arm or something like that could be used.

Mine was on a Spectra/Paradox so cant really help with IDS.
 

spiff

Expert Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
4,909
Ok, I have to ask for help with this one before I let the magic smoke escape.

The below diagram is a 24V circuit that controls a motorized ball valve, I do not have any manuals and the only thing I could find for this device is the diagram. What I have read so far is that the 3 wire model uses the 3rd wire to close the valve once the switch is opened.

How do you guys read this diagram and how would you approach the automation part ?

View attachment 749833

Edit: is it as easy as using a Sonoff SV and with red and green wired to positive and black to ground

Edit2: still using Sonoff SV but red is connect directly to 24v source positive on Sonoff input side, green is connected to positive on SV output and black to ground on Sonoff output
have you seen this one?

electronic control water valve
 

skefda

Active Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
95
I had two as well and one was unused so could easily enough set it up to feed into GPIO on the the SV.

I’m wondering if something like the siren beeping during arm or something like that could be used.

Mine was on a Spectra/Paradox so cant really help with IDS.
Mine is a Texecom. I've studied the manual and the outputs can show arm/disarm. I need to go in the roof and see whats connected.
 

SauRoNZA

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Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
34,882
Mine is a Texecom. I've studied the manual and the outputs can show arm/disarm. I need to go in the roof and see whats connected.
I'm sure you could just bridge into the same pins if it's already configured to state the arm/disarm.
 
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