Home Automation - Smartkit

Steamy Tom said:
So I know it has been discussed partially before but I just wanted some clarification.

Is it absolutely necessary to pop off the resistors and join the inputs on an sv in order to trigger a gate motor?

Also I would like to use the gpio pins to feed off the status led output to see if the gate is closed, is this possible to view in the ewelink app?
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sorry, bumping this as i think it got lost int he posts
 
patrick123 said:
If they are both 12 volts, then there should not be a problem, else I would suggest an opto-isolator on the second device.
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Both 12v, both powered from the same source.

Basically, my front door has an electric lock - which can be opened from the outside with a keypad, I want to add a SV so the lock can be unlocked from inside the house. (or remotely)

(everything powered by the same "controller" module).
 
xrapidx said:
Both 12v, both powered from the same source.

Basically, my front door has an electric lock - which can be opened from the outside with a keypad, I want to add a SV so the lock can be unlocked from inside the house. (or remotely)

(everything powered by the same "controller" module).
Click to expand...
With them both powered by the same source and you triggering the lock from either ( not input), there is absolutely no problem. It is like having 2 simple switches for the same device.
 
Steamy Tom said:
So I know it has been discussed partially before but I just wanted some clarification.

Is it absolutely necessary to pop off the resistors and join the inputs on an sv in order to trigger a gate motor?

Also I would like to use the gpio pins to feed off the status led output to see if the gate is closed, is this possible to view in the ewelink app?
Click to expand...

Kind of depends on the motor.

If it's just a trigger that requires no voltage then yes you'll need to do it otherwise you are going to fry it with whatever the input voltage is.

As for the LED, not sure if that will work or not. I just used a magnetic switch and stuck it to the gate.

No idea about EWElink, it annoys me every time I try it with a new device and then I just flash Tasmota instead.
 
SauRoNZA said:
Kind of depends on the motor.

If it's just a trigger that requires no voltage then yes you'll need to do it otherwise you are going to fry it with whatever the input voltage is.

As for the LED, not sure if that will work or not. I just used a magnetic switch and stuck it to the gate.

No idea about EWElink, it annoys me every time I try it with a new device and then I just flash Tasmota instead.
Click to expand...

Basically you pop the resistors to create a dry contact where your input voltage is not the same as your output voltage (namely the triggered device supplies it's own voltage).
 
SauRoNZA said:
Kind of depends on the motor.

If it's just a trigger that requires no voltage then yes you'll need to do it otherwise you are going to fry it with whatever the input voltage is.

As for the LED, not sure if that will work or not. I just used a magnetic switch and stuck it to the gate.

No idea about EWElink, it annoys me every time I try it with a new device and then I just flash Tasmota instead.
Click to expand...

it is a V1 D5 motor. yeah ok fair enough i will pop the resitors and short the inputs.

does anyone else have any idea on whether you can see the gpio pin status on eWeLink?
 
Steamy Tom said:
it is a V1 D5 motor. yeah ok fair enough i will pop the resitors and short the inputs.

does anyone else have any idea on whether you can see the gpio pin status on eWeLink?
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Come on mr Tom, just bite the bullet and setup HA, you know you want to!
The only reliable way to test if the gate is opened or closed is with a reed switch/hall sensor attached to the fully closed position.
Its really easy to do if you can get the device close enough to the motor. I just dont think eWelink is advanced enough to test for those conditions.
 
So, this past weekend I had some spare time on my hands and decided to give Tuya convert a go on some cheap and nasty RGBW( Cool white) globes. All I can say is, I should've done it a looooooong time ago. After flashing the bulbs with some ESPhomeyaml, the colour control is better, waaaaay better. Red is actually red and not green like the stock incorrect firmware on the cheap and nasty bulb.

What's nice about the ESPhome firmware is that you can control the white and the RGB channels separately (something the smart life app does not allow), so now I just add some colour to the cool white and give it a tint of blue, or red, or green, or yellow, or or or or etc. getting rid of the cold cold cool white.

Using the ESPHome with Hassio it's super quick....no matter how many under sea cables breaks, it's super quick.......when you're ont he same Wifi. Working through Nabu Casa, well ja.......the few seconds delays doesn't bother in that scenario as you wouldn't be home in any case.

I need to convert a few more bulbs and the plugs will be next.

Tuya convert......Just do it.
 
mtlost said:
So, this past weekend I had some spare time on my hands and decided to give Tuya convert a go on some cheap and nasty RGBW( Cool white) globes. All I can say is, I should've done it a looooooong time ago. After flashing the bulbs with some ESPhomeyaml, the colour control is better, waaaaay better. Red is actually red and not green like the stock incorrect firmware on the cheap and nasty bulb.

What's nice about the ESPhome firmware is that you can control the white and the RGB channels separately (something the smart life app does not allow), so now I just add some colour to the cool white and give it a tint of blue, or red, or green, or yellow, or or or or etc. getting rid of the cold cold cool white.

Using the ESPHome with Hassio it's super quick....no matter how many under sea cables breaks, it's super quick.......when you're ont he same Wifi. Working through Nabu Casa, well ja.......the few seconds delays doesn't bother in that scenario as you wouldn't be home in any case.

I need to convert a few more bulbs and the plugs will be next.

Tuya convert......Just do it.
Click to expand...
I think I still have an SD card setup with the original Tuya convert. I flashed some wifi dimmer switches with it a while back. Next Tuya devices will be done with the newer version after the last round of changes were patched.
 
Hey guys, I finally got SWAMBO convinced that we need smart lights and switches at home so now the "hard" work begins. Going to see if there is enough space to pull neutral to all the light switches this afternoon. She really likes the TX T3 switches, but I seem to remember a while ago (feels like almost 2 years) somebody mentioned they don't fit flush against the wall and some 3d printer plates where done. Is this still needed with the new models or was that only for the older circle button ones?

I have read up on the Shellys also, but besides not really able to find them in SA my wife and I like the black of the T3. If I can't pull neutral wire then my other options is the Shelly or some of those no neutral switches, but they only come in white as far as I can see. Will see what I can do after checking behind the switches.

Installed Hass.io on my Gen8 running Proxmox to play with so long and see what plugins & other devices I can connect to. Down the rabbit hole I go :ROFL:
 
Hey, freely admit that I am a bit late to the party here, but how are you guys solving the No Neutral issue in the light switch wiring. I have found the Capacitor based solution, but I'm wondering how safe this actually is.
 
kolakidd said:
Hey, freely admit that I am a bit late to the party here, but how are you guys solving the No Neutral issue in the light switch wiring. I have found the Capacitor based solution, but I'm wondering how safe this actually is.
Click to expand...
Run a neutral line
 
kolakidd said:
Hey, freely admit that I am a bit late to the party here, but how are you guys solving the No Neutral issue in the light switch wiring. I have found the Capacitor based solution, but I'm wondering how safe this actually is.
Click to expand...

Either run a neutral to the switch if you plan to replace the switch.

Or don't replace the switch and put something like a Sonoff Mini or Shelly at the light source where the neutral is.
 
does anyone here know if it is possible to use a power output from another device to use as a status indication?

eg using an alarm keypads led output to see if the system is armed/not armed/alarming?

any idea how to go about this with a sonoff sv and HA?
 
Steamy Tom said:
does anyone here know if it is possible to use a power output from another device to use as a status indication?

eg using an alarm keypads led output to see if the system is armed/not armed/alarming?

any idea how to go about this with a sonoff sv and HA?
Click to expand...

I am referring to the PGM/NEG output here from an alarm keypad, from what i measure it is 2V
 
Steamy Tom said:
does anyone here know if it is possible to use a power output from another device to use as a status indication?

eg using an alarm keypads led output to see if the system is armed/not armed/alarming?

any idea how to go about this with a sonoff sv and HA?
Click to expand...
You'd have to use the GPIO pins.
 
phaktza said:
You'd have to use the GPIO pins.
Click to expand...

yeah i get, could you possibly assist with more clarification? (sorry i am a bit noob, my concern is blowing the board pumping 2v from an external source into the board)

i have GPIO14 and GND free for example, i can of course wire it straight in but i am not sure if i need a resistor or the wiring configuration as well as what to set the pins as on tasmota
 
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