Home Automation - Smartkit

alqassam said:
Update on home assistant:

Garage going fine
Sorted out the Unifi controller now works through homesassistant
Managed to get my mi bedside lamps integrated.

Next is shellies and sonoffs, thinking of flashing tasmota and got this doodad to do it.

Busy fixing my electric fence ATM as well , the pros wanted 4000 let's see if I can do it for R500 excl my own labour ofcourse.
Click to expand...

I'd flash the Sonoffs - the Shelly's work well as is.
 
alqassam said:
My gate is about 60m from my house, not too easy.

Need the cat cable for a camera.
Click to expand...

It may not be a easy task but it will be worth it.Remember to run extra lines as you may need them later on.Oh and extra conduit for Fibre.
 
Bloody hell. Tooks some hours, and most difficult thing to crawl through flat roof.
Needless to say, was upset to find firewall to braai room has no hole for cables. I wonder how the electrical wiring is done to that side...

Anyways, got the 2 main cables between FTTH router and my NAS/servers done in proper CAT6 now. Only using 1, 2nd is for backup or perhaps later I will bond them, will see.

Ran 2 cables to the braai room. To get around the firewall, I used a shortcut outside, so need to go back up (at least easy as it outside) to add weather protection over the cables.
Will later the week do the last bit in the braai room to add wifi to that side of the house. 1 is for wifi. 2nd for an android box, but either way both can be hooked into a mini switch there if I need it later.

Ran 2 cables to the office room, 1 is already hooked up to wifi and the other should go down to a PC, but meh too tired by this point to do that.

There is finally another 2 that should go all the way around to the master bedroom side, but that is ANOTHER firewall so having already given up by this point, that can wait until I have bought the wifi APs for that side.

Plan is to end up with 4x wifi APs eventually...
 
Tinuva said:
Bloody hell. Tooks some hours, and most difficult thing to crawl through flat roof.
Needless to say, was upset to find firewall to braai room has no hole for cables. I wonder how the electrical wiring is done to that side...

Anyways, got the 2 main cables between FTTH router and my NAS/servers done in proper CAT6 now. Only using 1, 2nd is for backup or perhaps later I will bond them, will see.

Ran 2 cables to the braai room. To get around the firewall, I used a shortcut outside, so need to go back up (at least easy as it outside) to add weather protection over the cables.
Will later the week do the last bit in the braai room to add wifi to that side of the house. 1 is for wifi. 2nd for an android box, but either way both can be hooked into a mini switch there if I need it later.

Ran 2 cables to the office room, 1 is already hooked up to wifi and the other should go down to a PC, but meh too tired by this point to do that.

There is finally another 2 that should go all the way around to the master bedroom side, but that is ANOTHER firewall so having already given up by this point, that can wait until I have bought the wifi APs for that side.

Plan is to end up with 4x wifi APs eventually...
Click to expand...

nothing a drill bit or hammer couldnt have sorted out
 
Tinuva said:
Ok so I have already been in there once a month ago to put in temporary network cable, but it doesn't go where the new on has to go.

So plan is, to do all of them in one go now.
Bought 6x 25m and 2x 50m cat6.
Most utp shielded and some stp shielded.

So planning on using the old temp cat5 to get them from one side to the other and pull some through into the lounge.

Only started the planning so far.

This is where I am at now.
Tested them to be working 1st.
Then marked and wrapped into masking tape together.

4e1ce2ae25a2d110609c34feb14b3d59.jpg


39d6b8bb516726e7de33969f7e9cff4a.jpg



b8959431a53dd216349e956ffc8499c6.jpg


Next step, prepare myself mentally then go up to start pulling hoping for the best. There 2 firewalls and 3 manholes I have to get in to worst case scenario.
Click to expand...
How do you get past firewalls? I have it in the roof as well, so nightmare to lead cable through the ceiling.
 
Drill bit can work. I don't have a quality and long enough drill bit for this. I did consider I should have bought one. Maybe next time now that I know.
 
Tinuva said:
Bloody hell. Tooks some hours, and most difficult thing to crawl through flat roof.
Needless to say, was upset to find firewall to braai room has no hole for cables. I wonder how the electrical wiring is done to that side...

Anyways, got the 2 main cables between FTTH router and my NAS/servers done in proper CAT6 now. Only using 1, 2nd is for backup or perhaps later I will bond them, will see.

Ran 2 cables to the braai room. To get around the firewall, I used a shortcut outside, so need to go back up (at least easy as it outside) to add weather protection over the cables.
Will later the week do the last bit in the braai room to add wifi to that side of the house. 1 is for wifi. 2nd for an android box, but either way both can be hooked into a mini switch there if I need it later.

Ran 2 cables to the office room, 1 is already hooked up to wifi and the other should go down to a PC, but meh too tired by this point to do that.

There is finally another 2 that should go all the way around to the master bedroom side, but that is ANOTHER firewall so having already given up by this point, that can wait until I have bought the wifi APs for that side.

Plan is to end up with 4x wifi APs eventually...
Click to expand...

Why on earth would you wire an Android box when you have awesome WiFi everywhere?
 
Dee96 said:
Hi All

I have a 150l 3KW geyser that I would like to put a WiFi timer on the DB board to control.

The circuit breaker for the geyser is currently a 20A and I came across the Sonoff switch which is only 16A.

From my reading, this means I have to put a relay to control the geyser and use the Sonoff to switch the relay on and off.

Is that the easiest solution or would you suggest something else

Thanks
Click to expand...
For a cheaper solution I have used "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" on my geyser. It connects to eWelink app, and have since integrated to Home Assistant and works perfectly.
 
Dee96 said:
Hi All

I have a 150l 3KW geyser that I would like to put a WiFi timer on the DB board to control.

The circuit breaker for the geyser is currently a 20A and I came across the Sonoff switch which is only 16A.

From my reading, this means I have to put a relay to control the geyser and use the Sonoff to switch the relay on and off.

Is that the easiest solution or would you suggest something else

Thanks
Click to expand...
Please do share:

1. Links you read
2. Final solution

Thanks
 
SunilK said:
For a cheaper solution I have used "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" on my geyser. It connects to eWelink app, and have since integrated to Home Assistant and works perfectly.
Click to expand...

Any local suppliers of that switch ( with reasonable prices )?
 
If it has an ethernet port - I'll run a cable - Wifi is too much hassle, especially with camera's.
 
xrapidx said:
If it has an ethernet port - I'll run a cable - Wifi is too much hassle, especially with camera's.
Click to expand...
Mostly agree.

I prefer devices that does constant streaming to be on wire, with the wifi servicing the interactive traffic like browsing, switches etc. Makes for a much better wifi experience.
 
For the guys who put an SV on your fence, is it the same as the garage with the switch and then sensor for the alarm signal?

Or the opposite way?
 
Mine is just for on off, it's connected to my alarm, so need for the SV to detect an alarm trigger.
 
adielk said:
Please do share:

1. Links you read
2. Final solution

Thanks
Click to expand...
Hi

The links were various electrical website that said the geyser willl fry the Sonoff. Example below

powerforum.co.za

2kW geyser on 16A Sonoff

I'm sure this has been covered somewhere but I can't find it. Is it safe to put a 100L geyser with a 2kW element on a 16A Sonoff switch? What would the surge power be for this element?
powerforum.co.za powerforum.co.za

My final solution was to buy a sonoff basicR3(10A) and a contactor similar to the below, only difference was mine has a manual override switch.

http://www.em.co.za/Home/Modular-Relays-Contactors-Isolators/ESC225.html

Still havent hooked it up but plan to in next month
 
SunilK said:
For a cheaper solution I have used "KTNNKG AC85-260V 30A 3000W High Power WIFI Smart Switch" on my geyser. It connects to eWelink app, and have since integrated to Home Assistant and works perfectly.
Click to expand...
Thanks but I got dragged into the Sonoff wormhole and plan to buy the camera and Mini's for the lights so would prefer to stick with one brand.

Besides, the SOnoff worked out cheaper(R120 for Sonoff basic R3 and R500 for Contactor and R50 for Din Rail mounting)
 
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