Home Automation - Smartkit

A smart thing we didn’t know we needed.


I see your toaster and raise you this toilet cleaner


 
A smart thing we didn’t know we needed.



Honestly, other than the fact that the automatic lift and touch screen is unnecessary, I'd actually consider buying this. I hate most toasters -- the first pieces of bread are undertoasted, while the rest are completely burnt. There's no feedback loop whatsoever and the little dial that goes from 1 - 6 means @$%*&.

All the toasters I worked with in the past needs to be somewhere between 2 - 3, with small changes making the difference between 'nothing happened' and 'completely burnt' :/ Even worst in a shared kitchen, like our company's!
 
Honestly, other than the fact that the automatic lift and touch screen is unnecessary, I'd actually consider buying this. I hate most toasters -- the first pieces of bread are undertoasted, while the rest are completely burnt. There's no feedback loop whatsoever and the little dial that goes from 1 - 6 means @$%*&.

All the toasters I worked with in the past needs to be somewhere between 2 - 3, with small changes making the difference between 'nothing happened' and 'completely burnt' :/ Even worst in a shared kitchen, like our company's!
My fairly basic AEG toaster I got 6 years ago is still working great. Pretty much the version before this one.

Never had burnt toast and the heat setting is consistent when toasting multiple slices after each other.

Are you maybe buying the cheapest toasters available? :p
 
The 1950's called to say these okes are a bit late to the party on special toasters :p


For some reason this came up on my feed a little while ago, and I'm jealous I want one exactly like this one.
 
I had a few Sonoff light 2 and 3 gang switches left, but needed 1 gangs, each for 2 light switches. Eventually I thought screw it, and fitted a 2 gang and 3 gang in the mean time - leaving the spare gangs/channels unconnected (no live connected)

So I set everything up and noticed something. Because the neutral was connected to the switch, the buttons of these unused gangs were actually active. I checked on the apps and see they're available. So even though the button cannot control a light (no live), the button was still usable in a scene.

So now, at the entrance to my house there used to be a single switch to turn on the porch light. This was replaced with a 3 gang switch.

So now I have:
One button assigned to turn on/off the outside light
A scene assigned to the middle button to turn on/off all indoor lights
A scene assigned to the bottom button to turn on/off all other outdoor lights.

I'm now thinking of applying this same logic to the light switches in my bedrooms - especially for the kids' rooms. One button to control the room's light and perhaps another button to control a scene for the passage and bathroom lights. And replace the main bedroom with a 3 gang (currently a 2 gang - main bedroom and en-suite). The new button will then assigned to create a scene for the passage, kitchen and garage because when I get up in the middle of the night, it's either to go grab something to nibble on, or to grab a smoke.

So just a heads-up to those who have Sonoff switches with more gangs than what are needed.
 
I had a few Sonoff light 2 and 3 gang switches left, but needed 1 gangs, each for 2 light switches. Eventually I thought screw it, and fitted a 2 gang and 3 gang in the mean time - leaving the spare gangs/channels unconnected (no live connected)

So I set everything up and noticed something. Because the neutral was connected to the switch, the buttons of these unused gangs were actually active. I checked on the apps and see they're available. So even though the button cannot control a light (no live), the button was still usable in a scene.

So now, at the entrance to my house there used to be a single switch to turn on the porch light. This was replaced with a 3 gang switch.

So now I have:
One button assigned to turn on/off the outside light
A scene assigned to the middle button to turn on/off all indoor lights
A scene assigned to the bottom button to turn on/off all other outdoor lights.

I'm now thinking of applying this same logic to the light switches in my bedrooms - especially for the kids' rooms. One button to control the room's light and perhaps another button to control a scene for the passage and bathroom lights. And replace the main bedroom with a 3 gang (currently a 2 gang - main bedroom and en-suite). The new button will then assigned to create a scene for the passage, kitchen and garage because when I get up in the middle of the night, it's either to go grab something to nibble on, or to grab a smoke.

So just a heads-up to those who have Sonoff switches with more gangs than what are needed.

This makes a lot of sense. It is also something you can do for two-way switches -- have the actual switch on the one side of the passage, and on the other side just a button that controls the actual sonoff via software.
 

Yeah, been keeping my eyes on it. They've made a lot of progress in the last month. I'm keen on replacing my existing Aqara gateways with these (although, I've started using the Aqara's night light to indicate my PV battery % and my geyser temperature, which is actually quite useful!)

New PR #8862 bringing Zigbee bindings and support for groups (untested). We are almost at parity with CC2530.

What's missing:
  • testing of group support
  • better support of ACK/NAK protocol on serial port
  • support for Parent_annce_rsp messages (info about routers)
  • add ZDO broadcast when doing permitjoin to allow pairing on routers too
  • find a way to easily flash EFR32
 
This makes a lot of sense. It is also something you can do for two-way switches -- have the actual switch on the one side of the passage, and on the other side just a button that controls the actual sonoff via software.
I had a few Sonoff light 2 and 3 gang switches left, but needed 1 gangs, each for 2 light switches. Eventually I thought screw it, and fitted a 2 gang and 3 gang in the mean time - leaving the spare gangs/channels unconnected (no live connected)

So I set everything up and noticed something. Because the neutral was connected to the switch, the buttons of these unused gangs were actually active. I checked on the apps and see they're available. So even though the button cannot control a light (no live), the button was still usable in a scene.

So now, at the entrance to my house there used to be a single switch to turn on the porch light. This was replaced with a 3 gang switch.

So now I have:
One button assigned to turn on/off the outside light
A scene assigned to the middle button to turn on/off all indoor lights
A scene assigned to the bottom button to turn on/off all other outdoor lights.

I'm now thinking of applying this same logic to the light switches in my bedrooms - especially for the kids' rooms. One button to control the room's light and perhaps another button to control a scene for the passage and bathroom lights. And replace the main bedroom with a 3 gang (currently a 2 gang - main bedroom and en-suite). The new button will then assigned to create a scene for the passage, kitchen and garage because when I get up in the middle of the night, it's either to go grab something to nibble on, or to grab a smoke.

So just a heads-up to those who have Sonoff switches with more gangs than what are needed.
This does the same but lets you use any light switch

 
Yeah, been keeping my eyes on it. They've made a lot of progress in the last month. I'm keen on replacing my existing Aqara gateways with these (although, I've started using the Aqara's night light to indicate my PV battery % and my geyser temperature, which is actually quite useful!)

How do you measure geyser temp?
 
This makes a lot of sense. It is also something you can do for two-way switches -- have the actual switch on the one side of the passage, and on the other side just a button that controls the actual sonoff via software.

Also had a light-bulb moment on this one a while back... Hooked an unused "gang" up to turn pool pump on and off.
So the kids can turn the pump/cleaner off on their way to the pool - no need for an app or Google Home's "I don't recognise that device" struggle... :)

Such a small price difference between 2 and 3 gangs it makes complete sense.
 
Yeah, been keeping my eyes on it. They've made a lot of progress in the last month. I'm keen on replacing my existing Aqara gateways with these (although, I've started using the Aqara's night light to indicate my PV battery % and my geyser temperature, which is actually quite useful!)

Yeah also using the illumination sensor of my aqara gateway. My problem is I am losing connection to my master barroom sensor the hole time so need another gateway closer, because no idea what to use to extend the signal, no good za plugs for that.
 
Also had a light-bulb moment on this one a while back... Hooked an unused "gang" up to turn pool pump on and off.
So the kids can turn the pump/cleaner off on their way to the pool - no need for an app or Google Home's "I don't recognise that device" struggle... :)

Such a small price difference between 2 and 3 gangs it makes complete sense.
You have a picture of how this fits on your wall box?
 
Actually a good point to remember that all the buttons are in fact software switches as well and can be used for anything.

Actually makes me think that running neutrals and just putting 3-gangs everywhere is not at all a terrible idea for future proofing.
 
Actually a good point to remember that all the buttons are in fact software switches as well and can be used for anything.

Actually makes me think that running neutrals and just putting 3-gangs everywhere is not at all a terrible idea for future proofing.
I'm thinking of doing that now
 
How do you measure geyser temp?

I installed a new solar geyser recently, and got with it a super cheap temperature sensor and display (I declined the GeyserWise, knowing I wanted to do something myself).

1594205517695.png

Since I knew the installer well, I convinced him to lend me another probe and did some tests until I eventually figured out it was a NTC thermistor. Then I used a Wemos D1 I had, built a basic voltage divider on some breadboard, loaded ESPHome onto it and configured it into a basic digital temperature sensor.

I used the second probe/sensor to calibrate it (using another temperature sensor I had, and a bunch of different temperatures such as boiling water, warm water, room temp and the fridge), then moved the end of the already-installed probe from where it was in my kitchen to my study, and plugged it into the Wemos.

The ESPHome firmware/add-on automatically expose it as a sensor in Home Assistant for me.

1594205561053.png
(I need to mount it! Theres also a second sensor to measure temperature and humidity in my study).

Screenshot 2020-07-08 at 12.53.33.png

It's useful. I control the geyser element from a Sonoff Basic + contactor, so I can, depending on the PV yield and time of day and geyser temperature, switch on the element for a couple of minutes and let it switch off when reaching target temperature, or consumed X kWh of energy or ran for Y minutes. Basically to "boost" the temperature when the solar geyser by itself can't get to where we want it. Or as you can see, run it for a little while to get the water back to 50 degrees for the significant other's shower (just before 0:00 last night).

The Aqara gateway shows pure red when 50 or higher, or pure blue when 30 or lower, and then some shade of pink/purple somewhere in between 30 and 50. When it goes from red to pink, the SO immediately goes and shower!

1594205901562.png
(This is for the 43 degrees above).
 
Yeah also using the illumination sensor of my aqara gateway. My problem is I am losing connection to my master barroom sensor the hole time so need another gateway closer, because no idea what to use to extend the signal, no good za plugs for that.

I purchased two of the Xiaomi plugs which acts as repeaters, and plug them into universal sockets.
 
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