Home Automation - Smartkit

ToxicBunny

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Apr 8, 2006
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I just want to replace the current cheap setup with something better! the issue is the cheap battery backup timer tends to lose time after a few years and a few power failures.

if the pow can handle the 0.75kw pump then fine and if I can switch it on / off from my phone whenever I want - then that's cool too ;)

Then the POW is 100% what you need, with the added benefit of see power usage...
 

SmartKit

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Jun 29, 2008
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I just want to replace the current cheap setup with something better! the issue is the cheap battery backup timer tends to lose time after a few years and a few power failures.

if the pow can handle the 0.75kw pump then fine and if I can switch it on / off from my phone whenever I want - then that's cool too ;)

Yeah, it's rated up to about 3kw.
 

xrapidx

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Feb 16, 2007
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So my random shutdown happened again today - I have a feeling its related to motion, although motion is writing to the NAS now, maybe temperature over extended time? The Pi sits at a minimum CPU usage of 30% when motion is running.
 

calypso

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Feb 10, 2009
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So my random shutdown happened again today - I have a feeling its related to motion, although motion is writing to the NAS now, maybe temperature over extended time? The Pi sits at a minimum CPU usage of 30% when motion is running.

Use something better than a Pi? NUC, NAS alternates?
 

ToxicBunny

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Hmmmmm...

Got my basics, but try to do the switching thing through GPIO14 is a bust at the moment... probably because I dont have all the right stuff atm, but still... :(
 

Sinbad

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Jun 5, 2006
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Capture.PNG
Got me a basic thermostatic setup in the bedroom now, based on air temperature. The underfloor heating controls work on a probe under the tiles, so they work on floor temperature which is not as relevant as air, IMHO.

Todo: activation based on presence - if no-one is home, turn it off. Though, thinking about it, it takes an hour or so to really start heating. Anyone know if there's a future-reading component for HomeAssistant so it can know when we'll be home? :p
 

rorz0r

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Feb 10, 2006
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View attachment 525339
Got me a basic thermostatic setup in the bedroom now, based on air temperature. The underfloor heating controls work on a probe under the tiles, so they work on floor temperature which is not as relevant as air, IMHO.

Todo: activation based on presence - if no-one is home, turn it off. Though, thinking about it, it takes an hour or so to really start heating. Anyone know if there's a future-reading component for HomeAssistant so it can know when we'll be home? :p
OwnTracks and work far from home...
 

ebendl

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Sep 27, 2004
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View attachment 525339
Got me a basic thermostatic setup in the bedroom now, based on air temperature. The underfloor heating controls work on a probe under the tiles, so they work on floor temperature which is not as relevant as air, IMHO.

Todo: activation based on presence - if no-one is home, turn it off. Though, thinking about it, it takes an hour or so to really start heating. Anyone know if there's a future-reading component for HomeAssistant so it can know when we'll be home? :p

I find the Google location tracker fairly reliable - but you might need to set big geofences with the "zones" compontent.

Then I'd say either:
- base it on time
- base it on when you leave home
- a combo of both and possibly with some interactions (especially if you use IOS and can do actionable notifications)

I.e. If you haven't left work by 17:00 let it ask if you're still coming home.

I have a similar reminder set up: if both my wife and I left home (based on Google location sharing device_tracker) and we haven't armed the alarm, then it pops up a notification saying "Nobody's home - shouldn't you arm the alarm?"

And then usually my wife or I arm it.
 

ebendl

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Sep 27, 2004
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Funny that I want to integrate the TH10's possibly for the bathroom extractors fans based on humidity sensor.

They are wired in with the lights now and irritate the *** out of me so figured why not make them smart to only turn on when there is enough humidity.

If you don't want internet stuffs then just Tasmota them?

Wow I have the exact same irritation and situation. It's the bathroom where my kids do their business so the light (and thus fan) stays on much longer than necessary. The fan already sounds a bit broken.

I tried the Xiaomi temp/humidity sensor in the bathroom while I took a shower but it responded too slowly. I think a Sonoff TH16 with Tasmota and a custom polling rate might do the trick...
 

SmartKit

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Ah that's nice - so if the filter gets blocked or something - it will shut itself down?
It does shut the appliance off in the event of an overload. Theoretically this should cut the current and prevent the POW from being fried. This can only be triggered by a spike in the power, voltage or current.
 
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spiff

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Oct 17, 2007
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It does shut the appliance off in the event of an overload. Theoretically this should cut the current and prevent the POW from being fried. This can only be triggered by a spike in the power, voltage or current.

thanks for clearing that up.
 

patrick123

Expert Member
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Apr 10, 2005
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View attachment 525339
Got me a basic thermostatic setup in the bedroom now, based on air temperature. The underfloor heating controls work on a probe under the tiles, so they work on floor temperature which is not as relevant as air, IMHO.

Todo: activation based on presence - if no-one is home, turn it off. Though, thinking about it, it takes an hour or so to really start heating. Anyone know if there's a future-reading component for HomeAssistant so it can know when we'll be home? :p

The proximity sensor is what you want.

https://www.home-assistant.io/components/proximity/
 

ToxicBunny

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Apr 8, 2006
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113,505
Hmmmmm...

Got my basics, but try to do the switching thing through GPIO14 is a bust at the moment... probably because I dont have all the right stuff atm, but still... :(

Meh, Ok I think I may have figured out where my most basic issue came from....

I was jury rigging pins to fit into the GPIO14 and GND holes on the board, and it seems they may be coated in a thin layer of plastic so didn't conduct any electricity....

Gonna have to come up with a different plan to test then, since I don't want to solder anything onto the boards until I am 100% sure my idea will work...
 
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