Home Automation - Smartkit

Any idea how I would connect a light to a Sherlo receiver (such as THIS)?

I would need a relay of sorts, since I'm guessing I can't connect a light straight through it?
 
Tinuva said:
Depends on the item. The sonoff basic you can add a header, but I was lazy, just soldered a cable that connects to the pins on the uart, then removed the cables again.

Got myself a pack of cables like the one that comes with this uart: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-USB-2-...662228&hash=item484bf4eb2f:g:AroAAOSwYc5aTFRc
Click to expand...

Yeah that’s kind of what I was thinking to avoid soldering.

But to solder a cable or header is still to solder.

Was hoping for a solderless solution.

Guess nobody has bothered making a solderless clamp for these boards or it’s just not a simple job because the points aren’t in the board but through them.

What’s the best walk in shop in Cape Town to get this stuff? Mantech?
 
SauRoNZA said:
Yeah that’s kind of what I was thinking to avoid soldering.

But to solder a cable or header is still to solder.

Was hoping for a solderless solution.

Guess nobody has bothered making a solderless clamp for these boards or it’s just not a simple job because the points aren’t in the board but through them.
Click to expand...

The thing there, there is a little bit more to it. You will need the header, but then also a switch. Because to flash it, you need to short 2 other points, but they should be open when in normal usage.

For ease of the job, I add the cables going to the UART at the bottom:
sonoff-bottom.jpg

Then I had to at the top, add a cable, that I can short for the process to get it into programming mode:
sonoff-top.jpg
 
Tinuva said:
Then I had to at the top, add a cable, that I can short for the process to get it into programming mode:
Click to expand...


For the sonoff's you just need to hold down the reset button, power on and then its in programming mode. No need to short anything else out.
 
Which is that? Didn't need to do that for the basic. Think the RF is different.
 
Ok, think I need to add some cheaper FTDI boards and cables to the line up!

EDIT: out of interest, would you purchase the more fancy (expensive) FTDI if it was available?
 
Last edited:
As mentioned before I had 100% success rate reflashing just by poking the jumper cables through the holes in the board, and allowing the tension of the cables to keep them pressed up against the contact
 
Ok here's a question for all you guys using the POW/TH16 for pool pumps and Jacuzzis - how does the product handle the inductive load initially?
 
phaktza said:
Ok here's a question for all you guys using the POW/TH16 for pool pumps and Jacuzzis - how does the product handle the inductive load initially?
Click to expand...

No issues at all?
Mine's running through a 15A CB so no risk as far as I'm concerned
 
Question #2: does anyone know of a good MQTT master-slave setup to control various sites?

For example several chalets spread across a resort, each running Sonoff products for the lights and a single embedded device running MQTT. These would then need to be controlled via a central setup. Any ideas?
 
phaktza said:
Question #2: does anyone know of a good MQTT master-slave setup to control various sites?

For example several chalets spread across a resort, each running Sonoff products for the lights and a single embedded device running MQTT. These would then need to be controlled via a central setup. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Why not connect all the sonoffs to a central mqtt server?
 
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