SauRoNZA
Honorary Master
I have not...so I made one.
Cheap ass alarm sensor and some silicone. Has been outside for more than a year without issue
Except when I nicked the tiny little piece of wire showing with a weed eater like an utter moron.
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Home Automation - Smartkit
- Thread starter Dolby
- Start date
I have not...so I made one.
Cheap ass alarm sensor and some silicone. Has been outside for more than a year without issue
Except when I nicked the tiny little piece of wire showing with a weed eater like an utter moron.
Ah cool, I have a Texecom - so I know I have programmable outputs, but I assume they are low voltage.
I don't particularly want to mess with the alarm at all, other than just tell my alarm guy to program an output for x event and another output for y event.
No - just to pick up whether the fence is on or off.
ipodmusicman
Senior Member
Any suggestions on what relay is available to connect to dry contacts in order for me to turn on/off my electric fence energizer?
Steamy Tom
Executive Member
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To be honest i am not sure about making those work, but i could make it work using the LED output, i am sure you could do the same though with the outputs actually, you need 2 opto-isolators though, would you be willing to solder though?
I'd be keen to try anything
Sonoff SV?
ipodmusicman
Senior Member
Ah. Seems some soldering would be required if the one of so videos I found are to go by. Seems that is the only option out there currently. Will get one after lockdown.
I've seen a guy cut the sv as well... With a Dremel.
Tinuva
The Magician
The Shelly1 is a dry contact by default, no soldering needed if you can get your hands on one.
For in depth details, see: https://www.facebook.com/notes/shel...ame-voltage/2010703589028995/?hc_location=ufi
Essentially, the relay part on the Shelly1 is not part of the controller part like most Sonoffs.
It can also run from either DC or AC, so you could easily power it from 12v DC and then use the dry contact to switch whatever you want.
I really like that you dont need to solder or flash the Shelly at all, but if you do want to flash it with tasmota, it is super easy. Also it is already in a little case of its own.
I used one of these SONOFF
SV INCHING /SELF-LOCKING WIFI WIRELESS SWITCH 5V 24V.I hooked it up to the remote arm and disarm connection on the electric fence board
Probably overpriced, but does this look like it would work for flashing any of the Sonoffs?
Then it's just a case of male jumpers from the end of this cable to my sonoffs
Then it's just a case of male jumpers from the end of this cable to my sonoffs
Steamy Tom
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Probably overpriced, but does this look like it would work for flashing any of the Sonoffs?
Then it's just a case of male jumpers from the end of this cable to my sonoffs
Damn that's cheap!
chickenbeef
Honorary Master
Probably overpriced, but does this look like it would work for flashing any of the Sonoffs?
Then it's just a case of male jumpers from the end of this cable to my sonoffs
Damn that's expensive. It won't work for all Sonoffs as some don't have the headers.
Get the 1 Steamy Tom posted with jumper cables.
So I need that module, female to female jumper leads, and jumper pins.
Header pins I solder onto the sonoff, and then use jumpers leads to connect the module to the sonoff.
I don't know these electrical components all that well, are there different sizes of these things?
Or could you possibly post links to communica for what I need.
Steamy Tom
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female/male jumpers
you dont even solder to the sonoff, you just put them in the holes and hold it at a slight angle while it flashes.
Ah yes, sounds good.female/male jumpers
you dont even solder to the sonoff, you just put them in the holes and hold it at a slight angle while it flashes.
I got some assistance from someone wrt to my alarm connection.
My alarm output is switched 0V outputs. This means they apply 0V when active. When inactive they are pulled up to 12V.
You will need a constant 12V source from somewhere in your alarm panel to power the SV. This shouldn’t be too hard to find.
Connect the alarm wiring via resistors as shown:
Two resistors in series (the order shown is important) to convert the 12V to 3.3V at the tap point which you can connect to any of the GPIO pins on the SV to sense the alarm voltage.
Set that GPIO in Tasmota to be a switch input. Set SwitchMode 2 to invert this switch (0V = ON).
