Home Automation - Smartkit

People are always in a panic about the Sonoff POW2 or TH16 not being up to the job of running a geyser.

Well today my Geyserwise...literally made for this job **** the bed when the relay popped and melted half the wiring along with it.

88a306b735d8f801355b55638c100233.jpg


Now what are the chances of finding a hf2160-1a-12de somewhere local to replace this one? Or will I need to spend stupid money and replace the entire power supply?

If I had a spare TH16 and waterproof thermometer at hand I would have installed it already and thrown the entire thing out, but that’s probably as hard to find this weekend as said replay and power supply.

For now I’ve bypassed the whole thing but I suspect there is no other thermostat or overload in the geyser itself as this replaced it all, so now I’m just running it for 30min at a time and making a guess at the temperature.
Yup so if this can happen to your geyserwise...imagine a Pow R2 LOL

My one geyser surprised me, has a 4kW element in which runs at 17amps, so there is no chance that would've worked on a Pow R2 anyways.

But yeah, bad time of the year for this to happen.

Btw, you only need to run the geyser for 60min a day in the current season. I noticed mine stays nice and hot throughout the night and day running only 1 hour a day. I then run it 5 hours 1 day a week to keep the legionnaires at bay.
 
Yup so if this can happen to your geyserwise...imagine a Pow R2 LOL

My one geyser surprised me, has a 4kW element in which runs at 17amps, so there is no chance that would've worked on a Pow R2 anyways.

But yeah, bad time of the year for this to happen.

Btw, you only need to run the geyser for 60min a day in the current season. I noticed mine stays nice and hot throughout the night and day running only 1 hour a day. I then run it 5 hours 1 day a week to keep the legionnaires at bay.

Yeah based on the data from the POW R2 (which it runs on anyway) it does only run for about an hour in total but one session in the morning one in the evening.

My bigger concern is having no clue what the temperature is and whether it has any kind of maximum setting. There’s no conventional screw operates thermostat from what I can see and the Geyserwise system apppears to replace it all and becomes the thermostat.

My point was rather that failures happen with anything really.

Granted I wouldn’t run a 4kw geyser on a 16A Sonoff either, that would be silly. But a 3kw or lower seems to be just fine.

Basically the more modern the geyser the less chance of drama.
 
Yeah based on the data from the POW R2 (which it runs on anyway) it does only run for about an hour in total but one session in the morning one in the evening.

My bigger concern is having no clue what the temperature is and whether it has any kind of maximum setting. There’s no conventional screw operates thermostat from what I can see and the Geyserwise system apppears to replace it all and becomes the thermostat.

My point was rather that failures happen with anything really.

Granted I wouldn’t run a 4kw geyser on a 16A Sonoff either, that would be silly. But a 3kw or lower seems to be just fine.

Basically the more modern the geyser the less chance of drama.
a better option is get a contractor, wire the geyser to that, then use the sonoff to toggle the contractor.

I'm using a sonoff 4c onto 4 contractors, driving my Oven, 2 geysers and the pool pump, that way the sonoffs max amp and wattage is not a problem.

G
 
I'm looking for a device to open/close a gate motor and possibly my 2 garage door motors. I had a look at several products such as, GSM Commander, DTS Gcom500, Centurion Gswitch & MyGSM but haven't decided which to use. If you have a better solution I could buy a kit from you.

Can the Sonoff kit be used to open/close the gates/garage doors? My gate motor is a DTS & uses an ET remote, my garage doors also use ET remotes using the DC Blue Plus receivers. From the ET site it states the remotes run on 433.92 Mhz.
the remote uses rolling codes, but whats output from the remote Rx to the gate is just quick voltage to stop/start the motor, it's a dump toggle, I'm looking at using a sonoff SV... and then program mu Home Assistant we use on the phones, to open/close the gate.

So my phone talk to HA (thats visible outside the house network), HA then via MQTTT instructs Tasmota on the sonoff which gives the voltage blip to the gate, Looking at using the same setup for the garage door.

G
 
Hi Goobie

Sonoff transmits data to a cloud platform through the WiFi router, which enables users to remotely control all the connected appliances, via the mobile application eWeLink (Android and iOS). The cloud server of Sonoff is Amazon AWS global server. You can also use the 433Mhz remotes.

The short answer is no, Sonoff products make use of proprietary software and AWS. Some products can operate without an Internet connection, but will connect immediately once the connection becomes available.

The long answer is yes, of course! Disclaimer: this will void your warranty and you will be unable to reinstall the proprietary firmware. With that said, I am all for changing the firmware, but you need to be aware of the repercussions.

We will shortly be attempting to integrate both Qwikswitch and Sonoff products on a single platform by changing the Sonoff firmware and utilising the Home Assistant MQTT platform (Qwikswitch can make use of Home Assistant out the box). This will allow us to control various devices by different manufacturers though our Alexa devices (or Google Home). We will also be considering creating a limited app to make things easier on our customers - though you will still have to change the Sonoff firmware.

In the very near future, Sonoff will also support IFTTT - which might make interoperability an option without voiding your warranty or "hacking" the devices.

Please let us know about OpenSprinkler - it would be great to have a review/testimonial of the product!
you can install Tasmota on the Sonoff, then use a raspberry pi inside your wifi, on the Raspberry Pi install MQTT.
The sonoff then talks and listens to the MQTT broker.

You can then install Home Assistant on the phone, create some dash boards, now you expose that home assistant securely to the web, allowing your phone to talk to it, possibilities at this point is endless.

G
 
a better option is get a contractor, wire the geyser to that, then use the sonoff to toggle the contractor.

I'm using a sonoff 4c onto 4 contractors, driving my Oven, 2 geysers and the pool pump, that way the sonoffs max amp and wattage is not a problem.

G

I still reckon unnecessary for my 3kw geyser.

But yes certainly for those with higher power elements.
 
My oven is 40 amp...
The pool pump runs on 15 amp
The 1 geyser is on a 20 amp,
so this sonoff 4channel with 4 contractors was a easy suit all solution for anything high current, and the electrician loved the idea also.
I have a raspberry pi with home assistant in the garage that i Use to control/drive everything from.
G
 
My oven is 40 amp...
The pool pump runs on 15 amp
The 1 geyser is on a 20 amp,
so this sonoff 4channel with 4 contractors was a easy suit all solution for anything high current, and the electrician loved the idea also.
I have a raspberry pi with home assistant in the garage that i Use to control/drive everything from.
G

Yeah for their application makes a whole lot of sense.

I am thinking of boxing the POW2 and TH16 in the longer term so maybe then it would be a good idea to put a contactor in place.

Is it something I can get at Brights? Maybe then I’ll do it all then when the TH16 arrives hopefully next week and just be done with it.

Pull out all the Geyserwise shite.
 
Contactor îs jsut a DB board spec relay, so most all electrical suppliers should have them.
I use the sonoff timer ... instead of geyser wise etc.
also easily allows me to remotely switch it on when I know we want to use it but at a time I know it's normally cooled down,
G
 
People are always in a panic about the Sonoff POW2 or TH16 not being up to the job of running a geyser.

Well today my Geyserwise...literally made for this job **** the bed when the relay popped and melted half the wiring along with it.

88a306b735d8f801355b55638c100233.jpg


Now what are the chances of finding a hf2160-1a-12de somewhere local to replace this one? Or will I need to spend stupid money and replace the entire power supply?

If I had a spare TH16 and waterproof thermometer at hand I would have installed it already and thrown the entire thing out, but that’s probably as hard to find this weekend as said replay and power supply.

For now I’ve bypassed the whole thing but I suspect there is no other thermostat or overload in the geyser itself as this replaced it all, so now I’m just running it for 30min at a time and making a guess at the temperature.
Have a geyserwise but 1st need to see if I can get a CBI ASC on Monday.
 
Have a geyserwise but 1st need to see if I can get a CBI ASC on Monday.

I don’t know what half of that meant, but I’ve ordered a TH16 and Temperature probe which will hopefully arrive next week and then I’ll do my own thing.
 
I don’t know what half of that meant, but I’ve ordered a TH16 and Temperature probe which will hopefully arrive next week and then I’ll do my own thing.
Meant I'll have a geyserwise available if you needed one.

But I need to get a CBI astute smart controller as I have decided to use the CBI ASCs for my geyser.
 
I don’t know what half of that meant, but I’ve ordered a TH16 and Temperature probe which will hopefully arrive next week and then I’ll do my own thing.
Wow did you miss the whole cbi ASC Astute wifi tuya switch thread?

Anyways doesn't the geyser wise have a temp probe you can just reconnect to a sonoff?
 
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Meant I'll have a geyserwise available if you needed one.

But I need to get a CBI astute smart controller as I have decided to use the CBI ASCs for my geyser.

Yeah I figured the first part is what you meant but I suspect also this being a much older unit I might run into a compatibility issue.

And if you meant the whole system end to end I reckon it’s an upgrade to get it all in Home Assistant either way.
 
Wow did you miss the whole cbi ASC Astute wifi tuya switch thread?

Apparently. When I see Tuya my mind generally goes blank.

Anyways doesn't the geyser wise have a temp probe you can just reconnect to a sonoff?

Yup it does and it’s virtually identical to the Sonoff ones just maybe on a much longer wire so I did plan to see if I can make use of it, but just in case I can’t due to wiring or sensor type rather spent the R99 for the Sonoff one which I know will work and plugs in without fail.

But on the topic is there any kind of “offline” intelligence in Tasmota to use sensor data to force the relay off? I mean along the lines of “if temperate reaches 70, turn relay off” just in case of say MQTT or Home Assistant connectivity failure to have it turn off the relay as a fail safe.
 
I suspect that geyser wise relay got damaged as a result of a bad connection on the output cable plug.

Last week I installed a ZMAI-90 running on Tuya on my geyser - working well so far.

I considered a Sonoff and a contactor, but want to track power usage
 
Yeah I figured the first part is what you meant but I suspect also this being a much older unit I might run into a compatibility issue.

And if you meant the whole system end to end I reckon it’s an upgrade to get it all in Home Assistant either way.
Older unit - might be reason for failure, deoending how old it is.
 
Apparently. When I see Tuya my mind generally goes blank.



Yup it does and it’s virtually identical to the Sonoff ones just maybe on a much longer wire so I did plan to see if I can make use of it, but just in case I can’t due to wiring or sensor type rather spent the R99 for the Sonoff one which I know will work and plugs in without fail.

But on the topic is there any kind of “offline” intelligence in Tasmota to use sensor data to force the relay off? I mean along the lines of “if temperate reaches 70, turn relay off” just in case of say MQTT or Home Assistant connectivity failure to have it turn off the relay as a fail safe.
See @gbyleveldt - think he replaced chip with a Sonoff chip and tasmotized it, then integrated into HA.


 
Older unit - might be reason for failure, deoending how old it is.

Oh yeah it’s at least 5+ years, possibly leaning closer to 10.

That CBI doesn’t do a temperature sensor though does it? Or did I misread it?
 
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