i7 2600K Stock Cooler problems

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foozball3000

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I finally saved up my cash to buy my new PC. A friend warned me about the i7's junk R10 cooler. So, After assembly, I just let it run in the BIOS for a little while. The core temperatures quickly rose to about 84 degrees. Needless to say, I didn't get as far to install the OS.

The first thing my friend advised me was not to follow the instructions about how to clip the pins in. I HATE THAT DESIGN!! It took 10 attempts to get that thing secure. If you follow the instructions, push pin in, then turn the head to 'lock it in', it pops out. With 2 of the pins, you have to turn them first, then with almost excessive force clip them in, the other two just have a mind of their own.

Searching for solutions on Google made it clear that it's a fairly common issue and the temperatures are usually around 80-90 degrees. Which to me means it's a faulty design/factory fault.

When I eventually figure out Intel's support website, I'll share my thoughts. But as far as I've read on forums, they keep a strong foot down that the cooler is great and works... "The problem must be with the other components". The minute I get my new cooler, I'm smashing that thing to bits... (and I'll post the vid on youtube).

I've never had problems like these with AMD... :whistle:
 
I had similar problems found out that the rotate directions on those pins are to remove them... retarded if you ask me, as only 10% of coolers get removed and 100% get installed.
84 at idle sounds like your cooler isn't seated properly at all. Buy some new thermal paste (any one will do) and reseat.
 
I had similar problems found out that the rotate directions on those pins are to remove them... retarded if you ask me, as only 10% of coolers get removed and 100% get installed.
84 at idle sounds like your cooler isn't seated properly at all. Buy some new thermal paste (any one will do) and reseat.

Got some thermal paste (Tried to install my Zalman cooler, which said it fits i7s, but doesn't), and tried to reseat the cooler... but at this point I'm just too frustrated to struggle with those stupid pins.

I'll try your advice on Sunday, when I've had enough time to cool down.
 
You can take my Corsair H50 off my hands if you wanna? :)

Running it on Intel 2500k, cooler than a Penguin in the Arctic! :cool:
 
At first it is a bit annoying but if the sandy bridge is the same at my i7 it's not that difficult. I just push until clicks in.

I make sure though i do it outside the box so i can apply decent pressure. When it's in the box it is a nightmare but it is a good design, for removing it's an absolute pleasure.
 
At first it is a bit annoying but if the sandy bridge is the same at my i7 it's not that difficult. I just push until clicks in.

I make sure though i do it outside the box so i can apply decent pressure. When it's in the box it is a nightmare but it is a good design, for removing it's an absolute pleasure.

killa you got PM :)
 
I also got my my new processor last week being an i5 2500k and had exactly the same issues with the stock cooler. Got loads of warnings on the first day and decided to go out and buy a CPU cooler.

I bought the Cooler Master V8 and have never been happier.

On stock settings the CPU runs at about 30 degrees and when overclocking to about 4.2GHz it goes up to 40 degrees under heavy load like play BF3 or something.
 
If you follow the instructions, push pin in, then turn the head to 'lock it in', it pops out. With 2 of the pins, you have to turn them first, then with almost excessive force clip them in, the other two just have a mind of their own.

The instructions mention no such thing as turning heads to lock in place. As you receive the stock cooler (whose design has been around since LGA775 5 - 6 years ago, might I add) the pins are ready to be locked straight down without any turning. Turning is done to release the pins and the cooler.

It's simple, you do 2 diagonally opposite pins at a time.
 
I had similar problems found out that the rotate directions on those pins are to remove them... retarded if you ask me, as only 10% of coolers get removed and 100% get installed.
84 at idle sounds like your cooler isn't seated properly at all. Buy some new thermal paste (any one will do) and reseat.
+1. I'll put my money on this being the issue.

This exact same thing happened to me when I installed my i7 860's cooler, although my temperatures were much lower: 40'C at idle and it went up to 100'C when I ran benchmarks.
 
Those plastic parts easily break if you unclip them more than once.

You shouldn't get high temperatures if it's seated correctly and has thermal paste. I have the same chip and am using a better cooler, but the stock was sufficient when I used it.
 
The instructions mention no such thing as turning heads to lock in place. As you receive the stock cooler (whose design has been around since LGA775 5 - 6 years ago, might I add) the pins are ready to be locked straight down without any turning. Turning is done to release the pins and the cooler.

It's simple, you do 2 diagonally opposite pins at a time.

Just saying you won't get the clips to clip in if you are trying to clip them in in the position they are meant to be to release them (what a kak sentence hope it makes sense), ie turn them against the arrows untill they stop turning before you push them in.
 
I agree with PostmanPot.... I built an i5 2500k just two days ago (so this is very fresh in my memory), it clearly shows in the manual which way the arrows are, plus which way you have to turn them when you release it. It does not say anything about turning them during installation, you just push them down, and do one diagonally next instead of going in a circle..

Just flip through the Intel manual, you don't even have to read everything, you can look at the pictures and page titles.

As for the high temps in BIOS, I get high readings too, however in my win7, I get normal readings.

EDIT:

Oh and don't get the Hyper 212+, I got it and the fan was rubbish. It was off balance and very noisy. The default case fans on my Antec case were _much_ better, (didn't make a grinding sound when I spun it with my finger next to my ear), so I ended up putting one of them on instead.
 
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You can do it once without a hitch, but the quality of this part is poor which makes it prone to break - as I found. The fact that the OP and others found the same underlines this point.

Postman just wants to stir, but seems not to like me to question his honesty and quickly becomes forgetful that he recommended () I should buy a faulty graphics card from his so-called cousin (denied later). Look how his story changes.(LOL).

If you could afford a DNA test; I'd offer a sample without question. Take your miserable insignificant existence somewhere else.
 
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