Inverter and batteries

RedViking said:
@Chuckmyster please link me to the device you use to measure the batteries so I don't discharge them too far and some instructions how it works or calculated.
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i just have a cheapy R100 voltmeter that is wired up to the positive and negative of the battery and i monitor it like that. Works for me
 
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R121 @ http://www.communica.co.za/catalog/Details/P3238432112
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R55 @ http://www.communica.co.za/catalog/Details/P0081039952

Or go fancy
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R210 # http://www.communica.co.za/catalog/Details/P3288593548
 
RedViking said:
When fully charged in reads 24.8-25.0, so when it reaches 24.2 I should switch it off until it can recharge.
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my UPS reads 27.4 volts on my array and it sits happily there all day and night.
When load shedding kicks in it goes down to around 25.4v before ESKOM comes back in.

I dont understand why you want to switch it off? Is it a UPS ? Or a big power bank that you want to switch on when load shedding kicks in?
 
RedViking said:
I wonder why yours read 25.4 and mine 24.8V. Also mine is modified sine, can that also be? Or I have a bigger load maybe?
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no my APC UPS reads 27.4v non stop, not 25.4v.
It reads 25.4 when load shedding has finished after 2 and a bit hrs and ESKOM comes back on again
 
RedViking said:
So the manual also says it must read 27.4V. Looks like I must phone Geewiz again....
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measure with a voltmeter set to DC over the positive connector of one battery and over the negative connector over other battery. Or just buy an inline meter as Dairyfarmer posted this morning.
I like to see it permanently on and what it is doing at all times.
 
Chuckmyster said:
measure with a voltmeter set to DC over the positive connector of one battery and over the negative connector over other battery. Or just buy an inline meter as Dairyfarmer posted this morning.
I like to see it permanently on and what it is doing at all times.
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I know I am a bit slow to understand. But how do I calculate the approximate hours I would get.

Lets say 2x105ah batteries, 24V, 300W draw.
 
RedViking said:
View attachment 624278

View attachment 624280

I know I am a bit slow to understand. But how do I calculate the approximate hours I would get.

Lets say 2x105ah batteries, 24V, 300W draw.
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I like the Display, you can see at what percentage your batteries are at, sweet.

Honestly cant give you a simple formula to work at coz formulas are never accurate, just too many variables to play with like your internal losses on the electronics, quality of electronics etc.

Simplest way is fully charge your rig, write down the time and yank the AC cord out of the wall socket.
Keep gaming, Netflixing etc until your battery indicator there hits the 50%.
Write time down again and do your maths. Plug AC cord back in and recharge.

My personal opinion is not go less than 25.4v across your bank, if it isnt enough time then get another 2x105aH and put them in series-parallel with your array.
Your system is designed to go to 25% battery or even 0% battery life but i would never in a million years do that to a lead acid battery. Only to lithium, but thats just me

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Chuckmyster said:
I like the Display, you can see at what percentage your batteries are at, sweet.

Honestly cant give you a simple formula to work at coz formulas are never accurate, just too many variables to play with like your internal losses on the electronics, quality of electronics etc.

Simplest way is fully charge your rig, write down the time and yank the AC cord out of the wall socket.
Keep gaming, Netflixing etc until your battery indicator there hits the 50%.
Write time down again and do your maths. Plug AC cord back in and recharge.

My personal opinion is not go less than 25.4v across your bank, if it isnt enough time then get another 2x105aH and put them in series-parallel with your array.
Your system is designed to go to 25% battery or even 0% battery life but i would never in a million years do that to a lead acid battery. Only to lithium, but thats just me

View attachment 624314
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Thanks. That Display is not very accurate I think. It fell from 100% to 75% within the first 5 minutes. But it stays at 75% for now. So far its been going for 35 minutes, currently 24.6V, 25% load. Printer, LED Panel Lights, 2xMonitors + PC normal load. I still plan to run the 3D printer but will do that when I get my Watt Meter replaced. Mmmm....
 
RedViking said:
Thanks. That Display is not very accurate I think. It fell from 100% to 75% within the first 5 minutes. But it stays at 75% for now. So far its been going for 35 minutes, currently 24.6V, 25% load. Printer, LED Panel Lights, 2xMonitors + PC normal load. I still plan to run the 3D printer but will do that when I get my Watt Meter replaced. Mmmm....
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awesome, then add a volt meter like i have (Dairy Farmer posted links to some from Communica) I find that to be very accurate.
Just wire it between your positive and negative.
Ask for 1 that can do 24v as sometimes they will just give you a 12v one and it will pop
 
Chuckmyster said:
awesome, then add a volt meter like i have (Dairy Farmer posted links to some from Communica) I find that to be very accurate.
Just wire it between your positive and negative.
Ask for 1 that can do 24v as sometimes they will just give you a 12v one and it will pop
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Will get a cheapy here, depending on courier fees and a fancy one from China. :thumbsup:

Lol! A R50 volt meter is gonna cost R130 from Communica. :ROFL: I'll check what I can find locally.

Inverter lasted at least 3:30 hours before the 50% indication came on. I can maybe do without the LED & second monitor if I need to push it.
 
Last edited:
Ok got my replacement inverter from GeeWiz and the Menu button now works.
1.jpg
Only left to do is the cable to and from the DB. I have relocated the unit from where I initially had it. So have to get into the roof and move the cable.
2.jpg
All the cables the same length. Ring terminals are soldered on not crimped. The cable went in super tight to the terminals. I also got the tape out and did the ends of the cables.
3.jpg
I have put 2 x 63A 2 pole isolators next to the unit. This is where the cable from and to the DB will terminate. I will still be able to isolate the Eskom at the DB on the 3 phase isolator but wanted something at the unit. The cable below is a the same cable that I will use to the DB. It's a 4 core 4mm2 armoured cable. The piece I have used I removed the armour to make it more usable over the short distance, hence the need for a seperate earth.
4.jpg
Inverter specs.
 
Sorry for the slight O/T - I am looking to get my hands on some 9ah 12V batteries. Found these, but I can for the life of me not see what their ah rating is?
http://www.csb-battery.com/english/01_product/02_detail.php?fid=7&pid=28
http://www.csb-battery.com/upfiles/dow01520317327.pdf
HR series HR 1234W 12V 34W
Voltage: 12V (6 cells per unit)
Capacity: 34W @15min-rate to 1.67V per cell @25℃ (77℉)
Am I missing something? How does the above translate to ah?

Dairyfarmer said:
Ok got my replacement inverter from GeeWiz and the Menu button now works.
View attachment 626192
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Nice setup you got there. How noisy is that bugger when working under some load?
 
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