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I use the a Nokia N73 ME, and I sync fine with Ubuntu, using OpenSyncML, and a few other plugins. You don't have a GUI that's quite as pretty as PCSuite, but it works perfectly fine. I can use the cable, or bluetooth. Haven't tried any other mechanism.
There's enough HOWTO's out there to get you off the ground. I haven't tried gnokii, so I can't comment on it' effectiveness.