Is your system as thick as a plank?

deesef

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This story started in the Hardware Bargains thread, but it was a bit of a hijack, so let's discuss it here...

Copy of the initial message, subsequent posts provide more information;

I have a PI alarm, more than 20 years old. I have roboguard for the outside beams. Both are as dumb as a plank... However, i used an ESP-Home flashed Sonoff SV to monitor the main functions of the alarm and the siren output of the Roboguard. I also added a spare Roboguard remote with 2 relays to activate / deactivate it and to push the panic button.

With this, I can see the state of the alarm and beams and how many times they triggered. I can also remotely activate them.

I also use a D1 Mini to monitor the alarm zones. This also shows how many times each zone has triggered since the system was last armed. (If I long-press the Spare zone, there indicators are reset. If I long-press the Panic zone, a panic signal is sent to the armed response.)

So yeah, it's not necessary to replace an alarm to smarten it. This exercise cost a small fraction of what a new alarm would. The only thing that I have not included, because it is not a factor here, is individual zone bypassing.

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More info on how it was done to follow...
 
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The sonoff SV:
The relay is coupled to the PI alarm's arm input. The relay is programmed to switch off 2 second after activating it, so a pulse is sent to the alarm panel.

TheIO pins:
One IO pin is coupled to the alarm status output, to show if the alarm is armed.

An IO pin is connected to the alarm's siren and another pin is connected to the roboguard's siren. Using an automation for each of these that triggers when the siren state screaming and also when it stops, "helper"counters are incremented. These counters determine the next step. Off a counter stats on a given number for more than a second, then;
- if the counter value is 1, that means the alarm is triggered. A telegram message is sent. The siren counter is also incremented, to show how many times the alarm has triggered since it was set.
- if the counter is 2, then the siren had beeped once, meaning the system has been armed.
-if the counter is 4, then the siren had beeped twice. That means that the alarm has been disarmed.
- if the counter is 6, that means that the alarm has disarmed, but the alarm had been triggered.
 
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The D1 Mini:
This is basically used to monitor the 8 zones in the PI. Note that the floating voltage on any of the zones is normally about 4 volts. This goes to zero when a panic zone is activated. The other zone voltage increases to 12v when a zone is triggered.

I'm using 2 LM324 ICs (4 op-amps per IC) to get the trigger voltage correct as input to the D1 Mini.
Every time a zone is triggered, it's associated counter increments (the small number below each Zone on the dashboard)

All these counters and the alarm Siren counter are reset every time that the PI is armed.
The Roboguard siren counter is reset when the Roboguard is armed.

Oh, and I'm using the analogue input with a voltage divider to measure the PI alarm's battery.
 
To arm / disarm the Roboguard, I bought an extra Roboguardremote unit. This can be opened, then soldere wires onto 2 of the switches. You can use 2 available IO pins on the Di Mini to drive 2 relays, but I'm using 2 Sonoff Minis (because I had them). One Sonoff mini now activates the arm / disarm switch in the remote and the other Sonoff activates the panic button.
 
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PS: these little 8266 micro processors on the Di Mini and the sonoff SV do not enjoy any voltage above 3.3 volts! You MUST have a protection circuit for each IO pin that connects to anything that can give more than 3.3v. The easiest and cheapest way to do this is as follows. Note that R2 is optional - only needed if a GPIO pin does not have a pull-up resistor.


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Thanks for taking the time to write this, appreciated.

But I think I'm also "dumb as a plank" when it comes to stuff like this - I don't understand half of what you are saying :)
Do you have any experience with Home Assistant? If so, the best starting point is to read-up on the ESP Home integration and on the 8622-based D1 Mini. The programming is pretty straight-forward once you have a view of the structure.

Using Roboguard, I assume that you have the HQ base station? I only attach the common and the Siren output from the HQ to be able to monitor the status in Home assistant. The arming and Panic is done via a Remote that is paired to the HQ.
 
The only thing not smart in our house is me :ROFL: I had HA up and running, integrated to lights, switches, Paradox alarm, Victron Venus GX, IP camera's, etc. running a few basic automations but the RPi SD card committed seppuku and I haven't had the time to get it back up and running. So we are back to using Insite Gold, eWelink, iVMS-4500 and VRM instead of mainly just HA.
 
The only thing not smart in our house is me :ROFL: I had HA up and running, integrated to lights, switches, Paradox alarm, Victron Venus GX, IP camera's, etc. running a few basic automations but the RPi SD card committed seppuku and I haven't had the time to get it back up and running. So we are back to using Insite Gold, eWelink, iVMS-4500 and VRM instead of mainly just HA.
Pi + SD card is designed to kill enthusiasm!!!
I have my HA running in a Windows machine, under Hypervisor. This allows for very easy automation of backups as well...
 
Pi + SD card is designed to kill enthusiasm!!!
I have my HA running in a Windows machine, under Hypervisor. This allows for very easy automation of backups as well...

Yeah, it was a 'cheap' and 'easy' way to get started as I had an RPi lying around but looking at something like a NUC going forward, just need to find the time to get to it.
 
Thanks for this. You are waaay more hardcore than me. Thought I had a bit of electronics knowledge but you've put me in my place. Any other cool projects of yours on the forum?
 
Thanks for this. You are waaay more hardcore than me. Thought I had a bit of electronics knowledge but you've put me in my place. Any other cool projects of yours on the forum?
Not really. I tend to do what's necessary, but only when it is necessary :))
 
This story started in the Hardware Bargains thread, but it was a bit of a hijack, so let's discuss it here...

Copy of the initial message, subsequent posts provide more information;

I have a PI alarm, more than 20 years old. I have roboguard for the outside beams. Both are as dumb as a plank... However, i used an ESP-Home flashed Sonoff SV to monitor the main functions of the alarm and the siren output of the Roboguard. I also added a spare Roboguard remote with 2 relays to activate / deactivate it and to push the panic button.

With this, I can see the state of the alarm and beams and how many times they triggered. I can also remotely activate them.

I also use a D1 Mini to monitor the alarm zones. This also shows how many times each zone has triggered since the system was last armed. (If I long-press the Spare zone, there indicators are reset. If I long-press the Panic zone, a panic signal is sent to the armed response.)

So yeah, it's not necessary to replace an alarm to smarten it. This exercise cost a small fraction of what a new alarm would. The only thing that I have not included, because it is not a factor here, is individual zone bypassing.

9362ef6a7a7927873fe649d3d957a816.jpg
0afbe69efae27ba7a9985890598ae26d.jpg



More info on how it was done to follow...

Hi, what is your experience with the roboguard outdoor beams and would you recommend them? I am currently looking at getting a set and integrating into my existing alarm system. Prices seem cheaper than the big brand outdoor beams. Thanks.
 
Hi, what is your experience with the roboguard outdoor beams and would you recommend them? I am currently looking at getting a set and integrating into my existing alarm system. Prices seem cheaper than the big brand outdoor beams. Thanks.
They work ok, but just keep the direction of the beam away from direct sunlight, especially if there are trees or bushes that will sway around in the wind. The moving shadows and resulting changes in temperature will guarantee a false alarm.

Once properly placed, I have not had a false trigger in more than a year (and we have 2 German Shepherds)
 
They work ok, but just keep the direction of the beam away from direct sunlight, especially if there are trees or bushes that will sway around in the wind. The moving shadows and resulting changes in temperature will guarantee a false alarm.

Once properly placed, I have not had a false trigger in more than a year (and we have 2 German Shepherds)
Cool thanks for the info greatly appreciated.
 
I added a Paradox PCS250 a few years back
Not as sophisticated as some of the above devices, but will send an SMS upon an alarm event. I can arm and disarm with a string
CellC's R7.50 a month recurring package lasts a year
The PCS250 is under R900,00

I prefer Optex beams. In 12 years not one unwanted alarm. In fact the 40m beam was fitted in 1999. I take off the lens now and then and wash and polish it
 
Pi + SD card is designed to kill enthusiasm!!!
I have my HA running in a Windows machine, under Hypervisor. This allows for very easy automation of backups as well...
The RPi "SD Card Copier" utility works well, creates a bootable image without the need to power down, remove card etc
 
I added a Paradox PCS250 a few years back
Not as sophisticated as some of the above devices, but will send an SMS upon an alarm event. I can arm and disarm with a string
CellC's R7.50 a month recurring package lasts a year
The PCS250 is under R900,00

I prefer Optex beams. In 12 years not one unwanted alarm. In fact the 40m beam was fitted in 1999. I take off the lens now and then and wash and polish it
Thanks for the feedback. Appreciated.
 
How is the Roboguard wired to the D1? You said only siren but how do you know which zone triggered?

Thanks
Dion
 
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